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During heat cycle the entire heat pump frosts up and won't go into defrost cycle.

I jumped thetest terminals to force it into defrost mode but it did'nt work.Do I now need to replace the control board?

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  • Contributor
  • 16 Answers

Some unit you need to jump the defrost tstat also.then it would be the control

Posted on Nov 28, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Maytag/Admiral LSD2615HEB that I need to force into defrost? How do I do that?

switch it back to defrost and open the door up completely and wait

Posted on Mar 28, 2012

Krazytech
  • 725 Answers

SOURCE: Ice Build up on back panel of top freezer.

you have a Adaptive Defrost Control problem or a bad heater...the heater is in the freezer it is a Black wire just like in an oven.. after unpluging the refigerator...Unplug the header and check the heater with a multmeter check for Continuity if it's open you have a bad header... let me know..

Posted on Aug 22, 2007

  • 110 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost heater not cycling

sound like to me you have a wire terminal short on the neutral side between you def. t-stat and the adc
go to www.servicematters.com for the service bulletin on this issue

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

caroldon
  • 17130 Answers

SOURCE: 22 cu ft. bottom freezer

It needs to be confirmed that your auto defrost timer is the main culprit.You will need to confirmt he wiring of the timer once again, the lines to the heater and to the cut off relay of the compressor starter. First of all the timer can be tested out , make sure that you mark the connections with the wires colours and see if the timer works fine. If so when the complettion of the 8 hours cycle( normally) the realy will trip for the auto defrost. So try to observe the working of the timer so that you know that it works. If so your defrost fault will be cured. Hope my advice helps . Good day

Posted on Aug 12, 2010

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1 Answer

Defrost timer does not advance after defrost


Hi,

During this time of defrost you manually advanced into, Did the heater turn off them self? If they did the defrost thermostat does work, if the heaters stayed on the entire time (1hr) than the thermostat needs to be replaced as well as the timer. The thermostat is a cut off device to prevent the over heating of the freezer and liner (safety device). Think of a defrost timer as an egg timer, this timer runs regardless of function just advances like a clock. The thermostat turns off the heaters when they reach a temp rather then time. I hope this answered your question, good luck

Aug 17, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hi, I have an LG artcool A09AHD aircon unit and after a while on the heat cycle, the unit stops and shows a circle with a snowflake and a waterdrop within the circle. Does anybody know what alarm tjis is?...


This may just be the defrost cycle for the outdoor unit. In the heat mode, the outdoor unit builds frost on the coil. The outdoor unit senses how much frost has built up on the coil and reverses the refrigerant cycle to allow the outdoor coil to warm up and defrost it. After a short period, the unit then restores itself to the heat cycle. This is normal operation and nothing to worry about. During the defrost cycle, you may feel some cool air inside your home.

Oct 26, 2013 | LG Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Want to know how to install a d frost o matic model 8145


1) Copy following links for defrost timer resources, explanation, manual, general description and illustrations:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#defrost
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/8145-20-wiring-600.jpg

2) Generally:
Power wires connect to terminals 1 and N.

Heater turns ON during defrost cycle, so heater connects to NO terminal 3, and to terminal N

Refrigeration fan motor is OFF during defrost cycle, and ON during refrigeration cycle, so it connects to terminal 4, and to terminal N.

Limit switch, which is the pressure or temperature sensor, connects to to terminal X and to terminal N. When defrost cycle pressure or temperature reaches set point, the limit switch activates, and this causes 8145 timer to reset, and then defrost cycle ends.

Jan 30, 2013 | Hardware & Accessories

2 Answers

I have a Mitsubishi heat pump that runs well but the outdoor unit does not defrost what could be the problem.


Why does my heat pump ice up in Winter?
Heat pumps naturally ice-up in the winter. It is normal for the entire coil to be covered in a white frost and even light ice, during cold weather conditions. However, it is bad for the entire unit to be encased in ice. This indicates ductless heat pump problems which should be addressed quickly to save energy and avoid serious damage to your ductless unit. These systems should periodically go into a defrost cycle. This keeps the unit running efficiently. If the coils are blocked by ice, proper heat transfer between the coil and the outside air will not occur.
How does the defrost mode work?
When the mini split heat pump goes into defrost, the reversing valve inside of the outdoor unit is energized, switching the system from heat to the air conditioning mode. The outdoor coil becomes the hot, the indoor coil becomes cold, and both - the outdoor and indoor fans shut off. This allows the outdoor coil to melt accumulated ice. When the built-in micro-computer analyzes that all ice have been melted, the heat pump heating system goes back to heating mode.
sanyo-mini-split-defrost.pngA cloud of water vapor may be seen rising over the outdoor unit and a "whoosh" sound can be heard as the refrigerant reverses direction. The entire process usually takes up to 10 minutes (depending on conditions).
How often does the system goes into defrost mode?
Ductless mini-split heat pumps have different ways of determining when to go into defrost. The built-in microcomputer determines outdoor temperature, refrigerant pressures, and several other factors. In colder temperatures the system will go into defrost more often than in warmer.
If a ductless mini split heat pump is severely iced-up in the winter it is possible that it isn't defrosting (though there could be many other causes). Let the manufacturer certified technician check your system

Oct 29, 2011 | Mitsubishi Mr. Slim MXZ30TN Air...

1 Answer

Why am I all of a sudden getting frost in my freezer when I have a frost free freezer? My setting has not change, it still is set for 0.


One (or more) of the components in the defrost circuit has failed. Left unchecked, the frost will choke off the cool air supply to the fridge & freezer and temperatures in both will rise.

There are 4 main components to the defrost circuit. They are:

1) Defrost timer,

steve_con_94.jpg
Some timers are modular and have knobs to manually advance.



2) Defrost terminator,

steve_con_8.jpeg
Some defrost terminators have clips to hold them in place.


3) Defrost heater

steve_con_95.jpg
Defrost heaters come in all shapes and sizes.


and 4) Wiring harness. Any of the the first 3 items is a likely source of the problem. The wiring harness is seldom a problem.

The defrost timer is an assembly that consists of a small clock motor and contact switches. The defrost is activated for up to about 20 minutes; 2 or 3 times per day. If the clock motor has failed you will be stuck in which ever mode it failed in - your's would be stuck in the compressor mode. If the contacts have failed, it will not be able to send power from the compressor to the defrost circuit. It will have 4 or more wires - and often is a plug in wiring harness type device. These will only connect one way - unless you force it.

The defrost terminator is a simple temperature sensor. It is often clipped directly to the refrigerant coil - but may be anywhere in the refrigerant coil compartment (which is most often found behind the back wall of the freezer itself). It operates like a simple switch. It is closed when the coil or compartment temperature is below about 50 degrees F (normal cooling or compressor mode). When the defrost timer switches from compressor mode to defrost mode, power is passed through the terminator to the heater. When the temperature rises above this point (the defrost heater has been energized and melted the frost) it opens, and stops power from reaching the heater, preventing it from continuing to heat. This device has 2 wires and there is no "polarity" or "wrong way" to wire it.

The last is the defrost heater. Like the defrost terminator, it too is located in the refrigerant coil compartment, and almost always directly below it. It is a fairly low wattage, two wire heater that also has no polarity and can't be wired wrong.

You'll need some simple test equipment (volt meter and ohm meter) to test these components successfully.

I hope this helps and good luck!

Oct 05, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

How do i engage defrost


"Frost free" fridges automatically cycle in and out of defrost mode a couple (or more) times a day. There is no user intervention required. If your frost free fridge is building up frost, there's a good chance that the defrost circuit has developed a problem.

before digging into the defrost circuit: If frost is building up only on a door or door opening - this is an indication of a poor freezer door seal. Once the seal is repaired or replaced, the frost should stop building up. If the frost is throughout the inside the freezer - and the temperature of the fresh food compartment and eventually the freezer is climbing - then it's more involved than a door seal.

Typical problems areas of the defrost circuit are: the defrost terminator or sensor, defrost timer assembly and defrost heating element. While the circulating fan(s) is not part of the defrost circuit - it is usually visible and should be checked when inspecting defrost heaters and terminator components in the freezer. If the fan(s) has failed or is otherwise unable to spin, it should be replaced.

If you need more help, please provide the brand and model fridge you have. Good luck!

Sep 27, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

HOW DO YOU PUT REFRIG IN DEFROST MODE WHEN IT HAS ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROLLER


You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

Aug 08, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

When heat pump is in operation, outside coils freeze up.


Its common for frost to accumulate on the outside coil during a call for heat.

This is because your heat pump switched the flow of refrigerant and thus its now pulling heat from the outside and disposing it inside. Yes, as crazy as it sounds, its taking heat from outdoors and putting it indoors.


Depending on the brand system you have and what kind of bells and whistles it comes with will ultimately depend on how and when the defrost cycle initiates and terminates.

If your experiencing more than just frost, It may be time for the system to be checked out to ensure the defrost cycle is operating as designed or the system has not run low on refrigerant charge.

If you need more heat in the meantime, you can switch your thermostat to emergency heat and (provided you have heat strips) you will stay comfortable until you can have the system checked out by a licensed professional.

If the system appears to be working correctly and you get a huge utilities bill, then you will know the culprit.

Jan 13, 2010 | Ruud Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Compressor fan not running


Does it look like the coils are frosting over? Is it steaming? Keep watching, after about 30 min does the fan come back on?

If yes to any/all the above then the unit is probably in defrost mode and yes the fan will stop blowing during that time, but restart when the unit goes back into regular heat mode.

During this time you will likely notice warmer heat from the vents than normal and the "AUX or EM HEAT" light will be on.

That is your backup heat system. It should automatically come on during a defrost cycle.

Dec 06, 2008 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Condenser frost's up on my heat pump


On a heat pump the system reverses during the heat cycle to bring in outside heat that will cause the outside coils to ice up. There is a defrost timer or pc board to send the unit into defrost every so often. This is a common problem with heat pumps or possibly low or refrigerant. Heat pumps will freeze up at low outside temps, but unless your in the Artic right now that shouldn't be a problem.

Sep 27, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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