Question about Televison & Video
I have a LG 42LH7000 television. It will not always switch on from standy (either by touch or IR) I have looked at Capacitors only to find that they are all covered with white soft mastic looking stuff. I cannot determine if they are blown. I can sometimes turn on successfully....? therefore I am thinking it is not blown caps!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: have a 32mf23id/37 tv no
Above is your user manual, below is your service and repair manual. you simply MUST obtain a service manual to even have a shot at repair.
Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go and try to repair you set. But PLEASE, start in the right place, otherwise you will simply waste your time and money, You see, you MUST start, in the right place, The power supply, FIRST, as, if, that isn't right, nothing else can be. Also well done on replacing those capacitors, BUT you see they are simply Damage NOT the "Cause" there are always two sides to a Problem, the actual "Cause" and the "Damage Done" by the "Cause". One must find the actual, "Cause" of the fault and repair that and the/any Damage done. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now, also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" and replace them, because someone else had done so and it worked, well that maybe sometimes true, but most Symptoms, can, and do have many, many different "Causes" & also, now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or even, ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. Blown Capacitors usually indicate some sort of AC current is getting through to them, Caps HATE Overvoltage and AC, it eventually destroys them, heat is another problem too. Check all Diodes, Semis and decoupling Capacitors too. In the Power Supply. Make sure any High Value Resistors haven't changed their value, downwards.
Use the manual, and work through it all troubleshooting step by step and try to isolate the Cause and Repair the damage..
Posted on Sep 26, 2010
Found this on a forum somewhere. Clear Voice II is probably turned on. When this feature is on, SRS TruSurround is not available. You'll have to turn off Clear Voice II to enable SRS TruSurround. Someone mentioned that once you turn on TruSurround you can then go back on turn on Clear Voice again.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
After all the research I found out that the IC on the Z board is bad and new board was ordered and replaced. The plasma work fine after that and picture is excellent with the new board. This forum is great, without this I couldn't fix it myself. Thank you.
Posted on Oct 21, 2009
SOURCE: I have a gateway 42"
Its not a power supply issue, but an issue related to the D-board on your TV. There would be swollen/bulged capacitors on this board. To check this you'll need to remove the back panel of the TV. Check the connections to and from the D-board. Make sure the lamp connections are fine and ballast is not burnt. Also check if all cooling fans are working.
Note-- Please make sure to turn off and unplug the TV for at least 1 hour (this will drain off current from all components especially capacitors) before you perform any repairs. Also note that the TV consists of very high voltages even when it is in OFF condition.
Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
Check to see if you get Va and Vs voltages from the power supply. There should be some wires running to the y-sus. A couple of those wires will be labeled va and vs. Are they present? There will be a sticker stuck to the panel somewhere telling you what they should be.
Posted on Mar 26, 2010
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