I have a Carrier heat pump system with emergency heat (2 zone). I came home, my thermostat screen was blank. My HVAC buddy said open the door on the attic unit and check the fuse. Sure enough, the 5 amp fuse was blown. I replaced, the screen came back on. When unit kicked back on the fuse blew again. I had no mre 5 amp fuses, only 7.5 amp or larger. Buddy says put in 7.5 it should run ok. I did this, heat is on and running. 2minutes later thermostat is smoking. I rip it off the wall, yank out fuse. Thermostat was literally burning(the part that controls temperature up and down). This is a Totaline nonprogrammable stat. I go out and buy new 5 amp fuses and a new, this time programmable stat. Honeywell RTH7500. I following the directions on how to wire the stat. I then go to the advanced setup and answer each multiple choice question. When the question "select system type" I intially chose Heat/cool multiple stage. I have a heat pump with a/c and heat with emergency backup. I started the system, and could only get ermergency heat to run. It would not kick on the heat pump. So I reprogrammed it and chose " heat pump with aux heat". Now the heat pump is working. I run it for 2-3 weeks, no problems. Now I try to set the program schedule to the default settings, which is 62 at night and during the day and 68 in morn and evenings. I wake up the next morning, nothing is coming on. Stat is lit (Though this one has battery backup). I open attic unit, fuse blown again. This led me to believe that the wire from attic to emergency heat has short, because the temp difference was 4 degrees, which I believe tells the system to use aux heat to catch up. I get a new fuse, put it in. I turned off the schedule, and went back to manual settings. I turn on the heat, "wait" appears on the screen. Then after a few minutes the fan will run to cycle the air but no heat pump or emergency heat. (I set the temp only 1 degree above room temp). Fuse is not blowing, but only fan is running. "wait" stays on screen. What the heck do I do now? Also, my buddy said because I think the aux heat is the reason the fuse is blowing, to detach the aux wire from the stat so it wouldn't blow the fuse. I even reprogrammed the stat for heat pump only on backup. Stil same deal, no heat no backup, fan runs and screen says "wait'. Please help if you can.
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No theirs no danger in running the Emergency Heat all the time, Emergency Heat is your backup heat mode. when the Heat Pump is not working do to a malfunction or Defrost, the Emergency Heat kicks in. The Emergency Heat is usually electric heaters so your electric bill will be much higher.
Choose two colors of the thermostat wire, and connect them to the NO and COM and connect them to the zone control board leads for the zone intended. Almost all zone valves spring return open when deenergized. So ensure the zone valve is open with the system is off. At the base of zone valve there is a set screw that needs to engage the damper valve shaft in the open position with the motor in the spring release position. Most zone valve are 90 degree moment from full open to full shut. If you have a Carrier zone valve, they go full open to full shut in 45 degrees of motion. Your open stop need to be set so the valve stops in the full stop position.
To help understand the operation of a zone system, say you have 2 zone system and zone 1 thermostat initiates a heat or cool demand. Zone 2 valves energizes and shuts and zone 1 stays open and allow air to heat/ cool zone 1. If zone 2 thermostat simultaniously initiates the same heat/cool demand, the zone 2 valve opens and both zone heat/cool. When either thermostat is satisfied the opposite zone valve closes and when both thermostat are satisfied both zone valves open.
Hope this helps you understand zone operation. The same works for higher multizone systems.
Yes, I believe you are correct concerning the circuit panel.
Regarding your heat pump not keeping up ...depending on what part of the country you live in, heat pumps are not the best thing to heat with. As you probably already know, once it reaches 32 degrees outside, the heat pump stops working and the electric furnace or heat strips come on to supply warm air. Frankly, when that happens, it's like turning on your kitchen toaster and blowing air across it with an electric fan. Doesn't sound to efficient does it. Plus, your electric meter is spinning like crazy and the power company is falling in love with you.
In my area (Virginia) most new home construction is now using what's called a dual fuel system. It's a heat pump, but it has a gas furnace backup for when it reaches 35 degrees outdoors. It's very, very efficient and a very comfortable heat. The gas furnace can run on either Natural Gas or Propane Gas. In most cases this can be added to an existing heat pump system. The only thing necessary is the Gas Furnace, since you already have a heat pump and all the duct work. Could probably be added for a whole lot less than you''d expect.
The other option is to add a vent-free gas fireplace or vent-free gas logs, if you have an existing solid fuel burning fireplace. They are great for zone heating and/or supplemental heating. Plus, if you have a power outage in the middle of the winter, they'll still work, as they don't require any electricity.
I didn't mean to run own, but I hope all this helps you solve your heating problem. Please let me know.
the switch is on your thermostat - look for something that says "system" or "Em heat, heat, off, cool" switch it to "cool" and enjoy. If that doesn't work, call a HVAC service tech. You could have bigger problems than just the system switch. Good luck
The stat that works is called the main and the other two are called slave stats. The stats must be set to heat or cool the same as the main. If you want one room to cool and one to heat , sorry. Need to upgrade to auto changeover. Is this AC actally a Heat pump?
the thermostat sub base has a place to connect a wire usually white to energize the heat strips when you push the stat way hotter than the house temp. that is why the strips come on in normal heat. it also has a terminal that is only energized in emergency heat and it also should have a wire connected to it so that terminal can supply power to the strips when the stat is switched into emerg heat . you can identify the terminal from the wiring diagram and if need be jumper w2 wire over to the aux terminal and it will work. they both go back into the airhandler and power the same strips. w2..................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips or w2...jumper to aux......................................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips.