Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Install gearcase assembly for A LSB6300LW washer machine

Posted by on

  • onthethejob1
    onthethejob1 May 11, 2010

    do you really want to do this i will talk you through,,but first you will need a whirlpool spanner wrench...a phillips head screw driver,,a flathead screwdriver ,,a 1/4 nut driver and a 1/2 in rectit with ..let me know when your raedy onthejo

×

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Inspect both halves of the coupling for signs of wear. Replace if necessary (part #285753A).

10. Uninstall the motor mounting plate from the gearcase by removing the two bolts.

11. Remove the agitator by removing the center cap. Locate the center nut under the cap and loosen with a socket and ratchet. Lift both portions of the agitator straight up, exposing the gearcase center shaft. Remove the agitator clip and agitator washer from the shaft. NOTE: If there is a recessed square slot under the agitator cap, use a 3/8 inch to ½ inch socket adapter with extender to remove.

12. Now take the washer and lean it backwards so that you have full access to underside of the washer. Loosen the three bolts holding the gearcase in place. When you get the last bolt, loosen slowly as the gearcase will begin to drop from under the washer. Slide the entire gearcase and shaft out of the washer.

13. Remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip. Do not forget to retain the washer that is under the clutch.

14. Inspect new gearcase assembly. Open the breather hole (covered by a dab of paint) using an awl or similar tool. Install washer on gearcase shaft and install clutch and brake assembly. Slide gearcase shaft up through the agitator shaft from under the washer. Hold in place and get one bolt started. Insert remaining bolts and tighten them all evenly.

15. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.

16. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

17. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

18. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

19. Re-install agitator washer and retaining clip on the gearcase drive shaft and then re-install agitator. NOTE: DO NOT over-tighten center nut. You can crack or break the agitator.

20. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

21. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

22. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

23. Reinstall console.

It seems like a rather lengthy process, but it is a simple repair if you follow the instructions step-by-step. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information helpful.

NOTE: Under Line Item 10. - after you remove the motor mounting plate, make sure you disconnect the wiring harness from the the gearcase housing if it is mounted to it. Otherwise, you may damage the harness when you remove the gearcase assembly. Make sure you re-install the wiring harness in the fashion when repairs are completed.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What size is whirlpool lsb6300lw?


check out manufacture website for technical information such as size and weight of load and more info

Apr 28, 2014 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer is make a ticking no the spin and i look at the bottom and white pices are on the floor


This is most likely a failure of the plastic couplers / rubber isolator between the motor and gearcase. This assembly is designed to fail during an overload condition, but they often just wear out over time. If you are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult repair to make.

---UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET---
1. Remove console
2. Remove 2 gold clips at rear of top
3. Unplug lid switch harness
4. Rotate the cabinet up a few inches at the rear and pull it straight off
5. Near the floor at the front of the machine, you'll see the pump, motor, gearcase assembly
6. Remove the 2 large metal clips that hold the motor to the gearcase (you might have to disconnect the motor wiring connectors
7. Rotate the motor / pump downward so the end of the motor facing the gearcase is pointing up / out so you can see it.
8. You should see evidence of a failed coupler... rubber and / or plastic pieces
9. Pry the broken plastic couplers off of the motor and gearcase along w/ whatever's left of the isolator (black rubber)
10. Install new parts (probably need to get these at your local appliance repair shop)
11. The tricky part is realigning the couplers and isolator so you can push everything back together. Be patient... once it's pushed back together, reinstall the large metal clips, motor wiring connectors, etc.
12. Put the cabinet back on, being careful that the rear corners are pushed inward so they engage on the base tabs
13. Install everything else in reverse order of removal
14. Plug it in and listen to her purr...

Good luck.

Feb 05, 2011 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer does everything except spin


This is most likely a failure of the plastic couplers / rubber isolator between the motor and gearcase. This assembly is designed to fail during an overload condition, but they often just wear out over time. If you are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult repair to make.

---UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET---
1. Remove console
2. Remove 2 gold clips at rear of top
3. Unplug lid switch harness
4. Rotate the cabinet up a few inches at the rear and pull it straight off
5. Near the floor at the front of the machine, you'll see the pump, motor, gearcase assembly
6. Remove the 2 large metal clips that hold the motor to the gearcase (you might have to disconnect the motor wiring connectors
7. Rotate the motor / pump downward so the end of the motor facing the gearcase is pointing up / out so you can see it.
8. You should see evidence of a failed coupler... rubber and / or plastic pieces
9. Pry the broken plastic couplers off of the motor and gearcase along w/ whatever's left of the isolator (black rubber)
10. Install new parts (probably need to get these at your local appliance repair shop)
11. The tricky part is realigning the couplers and isolator so you can push everything back together. Be patient... once it's pushed back together, reinstall the large metal clips, motor wiring connectors, etc.
12. Put the cabinet back on, being careful that the rear corners are pushed inward so they engage on the base tabs
13. Install everything else in reverse order of removal
14. Plug it in and listen to her purr...

Good luck.

Jan 16, 2011 | Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Model RAX7244EQ1, Will not go in spin cycle, Motor is running but sounds like somthing broke. Could this be a belt ?


This is most likely a failure of the plastic couplers / rubber isolator between the motor and gearcase. This assembly is designed to fail during an overload condition, but they often just wear out over time. If you are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult repair to make.

---UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET---
1. Remove console
2. Remove 2 gold clips at rear of top
3. Unplug lid switch harness
4. Rotate the cabinet up a few inches at the rear and pull it straight off
5. Near the floor at the front of the machine, you'll see the pump, motor, gearcase assembly
6. Remove the 2 large metal clips that hold the motor to the gearcase (you might have to disconnect the motor wiring connectors
7. Rotate the motor / pump downward so the end of the motor facing the gearcase is pointing up / out so you can see it.
8. You should see evidence of a failed coupler... rubber and / or plastic pieces
9. Pry the broken plastic couplers off of the motor and gearcase along w/ whatever's left of the isolator (black rubber)
10. Install new parts (probably need to get these at your local appliance repair shop)
11. The tricky part is realigning the couplers and isolator so you can push everything back together. Be patient... once it's pushed back together, reinstall the large metal clips, motor wiring connectors, etc.
12. Put the cabinet back on, being careful that the rear corners are pushed inward so they engage on the base tabs
13. Install everything else in reverse order of removal
14. Plug it in and listen to her purr...

Good luck.

Jan 16, 2011 | Roper Washing Machines

1 Answer

After the washer drains, it acts like the transmission kicks in to spin the tub, but it will not spin. If I reach into the tub and give it some encouragement, it will start spinning but very, very slowly....


This is most likely a failure of the plastic couplers / rubber isolator between the motor and gearcase. This assembly is designed to fail during an overload condition, but they often just wear out over time. If you are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult repair to make.

---UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET---
1. Remove console
2. Remove 2 gold clips at rear of top
3. Unplug lid switch harness
4. Rotate the cabinet up a few inches at the rear and pull it straight off
5. Near the floor at the front of the machine, you'll see the pump, motor, gearcase assembly
6. Remove the 2 large metal clips that hold the motor to the gearcase (you might have to disconnect the motor wiring connectors
7. Rotate the motor / pump downward so the end of the motor facing the gearcase is pointing up / out so you can see it.
8. You should see evidence of a failed coupler... rubber and / or plastic pieces
9. Pry the broken plastic couplers off of the motor and gearcase along w/ whatever's left of the isolator (black rubber)
10. Install new parts (probably need to get these at your local appliance repair shop)
11. The tricky part is realigning the couplers and isolator so you can push everything back together. Be patient... once it's pushed back together, reinstall the large metal clips, motor wiring connectors, etc.
12. Put the cabinet back on, being careful that the rear corners are pushed inward so they engage on the base tabs
13. Install everything else in reverse order of removal
14. Plug it in and listen to her purr...

Good luck.

Jan 16, 2011 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

Kenmore series 90 washer won't go into Spin


This is probably a bad drive coupler between the motor and the gearcase assembly.

Go here for:
Kenmore Washing Machine Parts
RepairClinic.com
appliance parts, help & more



Sep 20, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I am trying to replace a clutch assembly


agitator needs to be disconnected, then tilt machine back disconnect pump and move out of the way. take 3 bolts holding the gearcase out an remove gearcase. Motor does not need to be removed unless you are going to replace the coupler. At the top of the gearcase there are 2 clips that need to be removed and wala, the clutch is easily taken off. reverse procedure, and reinstall gearcase. Be sure to rotate the brake and push up into the bell housing. if the brake comes down at all the gearcase won't reset into place. Good luck. There are detailed pics of this operation on the samurai appliance guru web site.

Jan 03, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 110.24422300 Washer


The following link explains the steps required to replace the gearcase and clutch assembly on a Kenmore top loader model washer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

I know the link explains how to replace the entire gearcase, but you will need to remove it in order to get to the clutch and brake assemblies. If you are talking about the exterior washer case coming off the base, the link also explains how to re-install the case too. If you are NOT talking about the washer case, then please explain which "sheet metal skin" you are talking about.

When you disassemble the washer, look for signs of oil leakage. It will be honey colored and may be present on the interior sides of the washer casing or directly under the gearcase. If this is the case, I would recommend replacing the gearcase as well. This is generally a tale-tell sign that the gearcase is going bad. In addition, I would recommend you order and replace the motor coupling that's between the gearcase and drive motor. The coupling consists of two plastic pieces and a rubber bushing. This part takes a beating and does require replacement from time to time. It only makes since to replace it now while you have the washer apart, rather than going through the disassembly again later. A new one usually costs about $10. I'm posting an additional link that explains the process of replacing the motor coupling. Make sure you use the part number I provided:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

Some of the steps may be a repeat, but I hope to be thorough. I hope all of this information can help you in some way. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Oct 25, 2008 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kemore washer MD#24902200


This problem can be attributed to any one of the following items:

1. Worn Clutch/Brake assembly.
2. Gearcase (transmission) starting to go bad.
3. Basket Drive assembly worn or loose.

The more common problem is a worn clutch assembly, but you can't always be sure. If the gearcase fails, a common tell tale sign is a light colored oil leaking from it. You will notice puddles under the washer and/or spray pattern marks along the interior walls of the casing. Sometimes these two problems are interrelated as oil leaking from the gearcase can cause the clutch or brake to slip.

The following link explains how to replace the gearcase assembly:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

I'm not saying you have a bad gearcase at this point, but include this link because it gives information on how to remove the clutch/brake assembly. If you go to searspartdirect.com and type in your model number as "110.24902200" there are some very helpful drawings under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump" heading. The gearcase is listed as item 9, the entire clutch/brake assembly is listed as item 5. The Basket Drive is listed as item 1.

This problem can often be hard to diagnose as any one of these components mentioned can cause a slow spin problem. I would recommend you remove the outer casing and do a visual inspection of the gearcase and clutch assembly (under the wash tub), first. Let me know what you find. I hope this gives you some guidance.

PS A basket drive failure will require you to remove the wash tub to replace. Since the basket drive penetrates through the bottom of the wash tub, it is recommended that you also replace the wash tub seal. Let me know what your preliminary findings are before we touch on this topic.

Aug 28, 2008 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washer


If your washer is not spinning fast enough, or barely spinning at all, this is usually a symptom of any one or all of the following: 1. Bad gearcase (transmission). 2. Bad basket drive, with which the transmission couples to under the agitator. 3. Bad clutch/brake assembly. Which mounts on top of the gearcase under the basket drive. Usually a tell tale sign of a gearcase beginning to fail is the sign of an amber colored oil coated under the washer or inside the casing. I said, "usually". It doesn't always happen, but if you notice any signs of oil, the gearcase is shot. The basket drive and clutch assemblies are harder to diagnose and require some disassembly of the washer and the removal of the gearcase to inspect. Let me know if this helps.

Aug 01, 2007 | Kenmore 22642 Top Load Washer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer Logo

105 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Washing Machines Experts

Ron Lankford

Level 3 Expert

5386 Answers

Archaeology
Archaeology

Level 3 Expert

662 Answers

2mikecurtis

Level 2 Expert

65 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...