What steps are required to remove delta single hande shower?
We plan to remove old shoer wals and install tile base and tile walls.
When I remove the handle, does the water need to be turned off?
We will need water on for the rest of the house while this project is in demo and install.
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should not be necessary to get behind the shower stall as there should be a hole big enough to remove /replace the facet insert
call a plumber in as it may be corroded in place and may require specialist tools for the job
get a quote first
You need the base taking out and installing properly.
If must be on a firm surface with no movement up, down, backwards or forwards. The best way is to glue it with a bed of expanded polystyrene so it can't move. Then you need a tile to shower edge filler which overlaps the base. Fill the gap with silicone, between the base and shower and when it is dry, put the edging piece on bedded into silicone. Then tile over the upper part of the edging.
Usually a shower stall will boarder a wall where you can access the fixture by cutting a hole in a boaring wall to get at it. If it boarders a closet or someplace thats not conspicuos, there may already be an access hole. Once you have access to the old fixture, you can remove it and, as long as the new fixture is the same size or larger, it shouldn't be that much of a problem. You may have to make the hole in the tile larger but, you should be able to do that with a 90 deg. grinder. Usually most, if not all, shower valve(single) have pretty much the same configuration. If your pies look to be in good condition, you should be able to work with piecing in the new fixture. If you cannot access the fixture from the back sie, well, thats a different story and, alo of work in redoing tile you probably won't be able to match and, a little bit of drywall work but, if you only cut the hole a sbig a you need it,you use some sort of fired decorative tile to cover the repairs spot. It's up to you.
Don't cover area where plastic guard should be. Make it flush. Some trim is designed to recess into the wall before it's flush. Screws, adapters, trim etc. all will need to be installed when tile is set. Make sure you have nipples extending out from shower head and spout area's as well. If you do this and think ahead a little, you will have fewer problems assembling trim.
There are two ways that I would do it depending on the width of the ledge on top of shower base. If you have enouch room I would shim studs with strips of material thick enough to bring the surface out even with flange on shower base. Then I would put cement board(wonder board) on wall and over shower flange to set on top of shower base. Finish seams on wall board per manufacturers directions,Let seam filler dry then seal with thompsons water seal or equivalent sealer. Let that dry then tile on that grouting and sealing with quality caulk at joint between shower base and tile.
If ledge on shower base is not wide enough then I would place cement board directly to studs then use filler strips on face of shower base flange to bring two surfaces flush. Water seal let dry and tile again coming down over top of shower. Grout and caulk to finish. P.S. I would use a siliconized latex emulsifier to mix in with grout. It gives a better ware proof seal. Hope this helps you. Good luck and thank you.
1.Decide where to remove the grout
2. Scrape the grout away with a utility knife
3.Try a rotary grinder instead.
4.Remove grout until the spacer lugs are visible.
5.Chisel tiles away from the wall.
6.Break the tile if necessary.
If the tiles are grouted, you will have to clear the grout away first. There are inexpensive tools designed specifically for grout removal. After removing the grout, use a small pry bar or a similar tool to pry the tiles away from the wall. Most likely, though, if the tiles were installed onto drywall, the drywall will be damaged during removal. Fortunately, drywall is relatively easy to replace. Once the drywall surface is ready, new tiles can be attached with tile adhesive or mastic. Regrout and seal the tile around the new tiles. *If the new tiles are natural stone they will be very porous and will need to be sealed and dry BEFORE installation. Perbaiki lantai teraso Teraso cor di tempat Terazo and mosaic tile
On most delta models you pop the cap in the center of the handle. Then there is a screw to remove the handle. If it is old the bonnet can be hard to remove. Be careful, as you don't want to damate the complete faucet behind the wall.
Start by turning the water off to the whole house. Open the tiled wall or if there is access behind the old valve open that wall instead. With a tubing cutter cut the hot and cold water lines as well as the shower riser. Remove any clips that are securing the valve to the wooden studs. Mount the new valve in the same area as the old. Make sure that the valve is not upside down arrows on the brass body will indicate flow direction for the tub spout. Connect the water supply lines to the new valve by means of soldering or mechanical joint. Connect the existing shower riser by means of soldering or mecnaical joint. Turn the water on and test for leaks.
if the sheetrock is in good shape you should not have any problems. If you are worried about mold and mildew, you might want to change out the drywall with either green coat or yellow coat- these are mold and mildew resistant
Once you've purchased your new shower head the first step in replacing the head is to make sure your shower faucets are firmly turned off and then remove the old shower head. If you look at the existing shower head, you'll notice flat spots on what's called a pipe nipple at the base of the shower head where the head screws into the goose-neck pipe that sticks out of the wall. * Take an adjustable wrench and tighten the wrench onto the base of the shower head flat spots. * Turning counter-clockwise, loosen and remove the old shower head. * Clean the threads on the goose-neck of any debris such as old pipe compound or Teflon tape.