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Re: OPENING CANISTER ON LUX5000
DONT KNOW WHAT THE 5000 CANNISTER LOOKS LIKE BUT MY 2100 IS A PULL BEHIND CANNISTER AND IT WAS SNEAKY. THE LONG PLASTIC STRIPS DOWN THE SIDES HAS A TRACK IN IT. YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR AND PULL THE STRIP OFF THE TRACK LONG WAYS AND THE TOP HALF WILL SEPERATE FROM THE BOTTOM HALF. BEWARE THE WIRING INSIDE IS JUST LONG ENOUGH AND CAN DISCONNECT EASY. I DONT KNOW IF THIS IS THE SAME BUT NOONE ELSE WAS VOLUNTEERING ANY INFO AT ALL.
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1) test the power cord for open, defective, or break use the VOM 2) test the fuse for open, loose wire use the VOM 3( tes the motor, for open, short, or defective, need repair. 4)test the switch, for open, or loose wires, or short. see how to do it. God bless you
Experienced the same problem, just fixed it! Lift up the control dial on top of canister. You will see two small clear hoses inside. Detach the hose going to the "bag full" sensor light. It'll fix the problem!
Check to be certain the thermo lite is on and not the bag full indicator. The thermo detector is very reliable, but the bag fill valve often fails. If it is the thermo, check your hose and wand for blockage by dropping a coin through them,before opening the vac itself.Otherwise you may have a bad set of motor bearings causing the motor to overheat due to its age. The 2100 and all its canister cousins made since 1982 seem to be prone to failure of the dial valve on top cracking internally. The causes the bag full indicator to come on and the vac to shut down. To open the vac you will need to slide the locking keys and bumpers forward with the bag door open. Do this with a set of pliers. Once done the vac will open from front to back like a **** shell. Be careful to look at the underside hinge are of the bag door before separating and mark and locate the wiring harness . This vac only goes back together one way, perfectly assembled it pops together with ease. If any piece is out of line it`s like a RUBIKS Cube. Take your time . OEM parts are only available through an AERUS Elctrolux dealer or repair shop
You will need to peel the soft rubber bumpers away from the side, like pealing a banana. Grip the bumper tabs with needle nose pliers from the bag area with door open. Underneath will be a set of locking keys which slide forward ONLY out the front of the machine. Once they are removed the front of the vac will scissor open allowing the rear housing to drop off. This is normally done in a cradle in a shop. Tag your wiring harness before removing the motor. The motor slides up out of keyed slots. replacement is the opposite.Rubber O ring is a motor seal and must be clean and properly aligned. Motor MUST reinstall with housing in slots. Check your fans for dirt and bearings for replacement. 8mm shaft size 108 bearing???
The whinning sound may be the bearings are bad. This will have to be taken care of or it will wear your motor brushes down very quickly. It is not generally caused by the filter, but by not be cleaned properly and may have been stored on its water basin.
You really don't want to get into the vacuum. After you get in, there's not much that you can do other than look. If you really want to get in, there are two strips,one on each side of the cleaner under the rubber bumpers. The strips have to be removed by pulling off the bumper and pull them out the front of the vac.This is not easy. The bearings are not replaceable. If the armature is gone, you can have a armature and bracket kit installed instead of a new motor and save some money. The armature comes with the bearing pressed on the top.
There is either a blockage or a pipe is open somewhere. You should check the system at the wall valve without the hose to determine if the pipes are blocked or if perhaps the hose is plugged. If one of the wall valves is damaged or open, this will affect the whole system. Some times, there is painting or renovations taking place in the home and a valve has been removed during the work. I have seen this many times. All valves must be in place and closed for the system to function properly. I have also seen garage valves held open by storage boxes, etc. and they are overlooked because they don't get used often and in some cases, the home owner doesn't even know they are there.
If you turn the machine on with the switch on the side of the unit, observe the sound of the machine. If the motor races, then the pipes are closed (no breaks). If the motor runs normally, you have an opening somewhere. The same thing applies to the valves. If you turn the machine on and the motor races even when a valve is opened, then you have a blockage, but if the motor doesn't change when a valve is opened, then the pipes are compromised.
I hope this helps. Let me know.
These motors have a fuse incorporated in the field winding and it sounds like that blew. These motors sometimes overheat at the front bearing and the bearing will melt into the plastic housing. This will cause the fuse to blow. It sounds like that's your problem. You can remove the motor by removing the three screws on the bottom of the powerhead and then check the front bearing for any bubbling or blistering in the plastic housing. The shaft of the motor should turn easily.
If you are finding BB's. then the bearings are bad. You could pull the motor and take it to a place that rebuilds motors to see about replacing the bearings. If it is a Lamb or amtec motor, there is a number stamped on it, you can match up another motor with that number. Go to a place that sells Vacuum repair parts and they maybe able to get you a new motor.