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At the back of the water heater there will be a series of valves. One on the bottom, sometimes one on the top and then one in a line that connects the top to the bottom lines. Make sure the middle valve is closed and the top and bottom valves are open. If there is not a valve on the top that can be manually opened and closed then there is a check valve installed. This check valve will allow the hot water out of the tank but will prevent the back flow of cold water during the winterization bypass. If the valve on top is closed it will not allow hot water out. If the middle valve is opened it will allow the cold water to mix with hot water and defeat the purpose having a water heater. Close the middle open the top and bottom. If there is not one on top then the check valve is probably clogged or has failed and need to be cleaned or replaced.
follow this steps and fix it. God bless you Drain a tank:
Shut off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the
cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a
steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the
faucet can be closed.
Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.
Test and replace a relief valve:
Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
Cut power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it
into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the
discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.
please see the next step: he pilot light may be out or may not stay lit. There may not be enough
hot water, or the water may be too hot. The water heater may leak or be
noisy, or the hot water may be dirty. A problem with your water heater may be due to overwork, not mechanics.
If your water heater holds less than 15 gallons per family member (tank
volume is stamped on a metal plate affixed to most water heaters),
consider a larger unit or staggering your use of hot water. Drain a hot water tank:
Turn the gas-control knob to
off and close the gas-shutoff valve.
Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet in the house to speed draining.
Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside to a
drain. If the heater is in the basement you may need to run the hose to
or through a sump pump.
Open the drain valve and allow the tank to drain.
Once done, close the drain valve, open the cold-water supply valve,
and open any nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water
flows from that faucet, the tank is full; close the hot-water faucet.
Once the tank is full, turn on the gas and relight the pilot.
One thing you might try is to shut off power or turn gas valve to pilot,as you didn't say if it was gas or electric. Hook up garden hose to drain valve and run hose to floor drain or sump basin. Shut off water supply valve to heater. Open drain valve and if you get a decent flow then let it drain tank about half way. If flow rate drops drastically then open hot side on faucet nearby to break vacumn.When you think tank is about halfway drained then shut off faucet if you opened one and close drain valve. Turn water supply valve back on and let tank refill. When it is full leave supply valve on and open drain valve and let water flush thru system for several mins. Close drain valve and run water on both hot and cold side of faucets fartherest away from heater as possible. Close this faucet
Turn tharmostat up as high as it will go and let heater run till it shuts off then return thermostat to original setting. Go through the drain and flush procedure a couple more times and this shold help break mineral deposits loose and flush them out. This should make for more efficeint operation and help prolong the tank life. Hope this helps you. Have a good new year and thank you.
Double check that washers inside fittings attached to back of tank, are not wedged or pinched in there restricting flow. Drain tank, relieve water pressure prior, obviously. The other thing is to check that the by-pass is allowing good flow in to tank when in normal operation mode. Have seen those only go half way inside valve, but lever is at wide open setting. If all that checks out, try removing the check valve on tank, and replace it with a 1/2" galvanized pipe nipple, ( or certified plastic/nylon fitting same size) and reconnect water line direct to that, without a check valve. That should do it if nothing else was wrong. Now you have a choice, either change it or leave it out if everything seems ok, but double check that hot water isn't siphoning back to another utility such as toilet if you leave it out and toilet is close. Feeling that cold line (inlet) when water is hot should tell you. I've seen the check valve in both locations, hot (at top of tank) and cold (at bottom of tank -inlet) Not 100% sure why, right from factory that way, but I say, put it on bottom fitting if required at all. Let me know how you make out.
Turn main water off to the water heater, it may be a valve on cold side coming in to shut off. Next turn power off to the heater and drain the tank the drain will be located near the bottom of the tank.
You will need a water hose to connect to the drain to run water outside. Open a faucet hot side to allow you to drain the tank.
Upon reinstall connect the tank up and fill tank and open up hot side on one faucet at a time to purge out air from system before turning power back on. Make sure you have water flowing from each faucet's hot side before turning power back on.
Try opening all of your faucets in the house including the two that don't work. then go around the house and shut off one faucet at a time. Sometimes the air that gets trapped in a system will do weird things. I had a similar experience and finally the faucet started sputtering and then full water flow... still can't figure it out.
is there one or two,, turn off power drain it down, use the water heater element wrench remove the wires and the element, install new element snug it tight, start filling the water heater while it is filling reinstall the wires, turn on a hot side faucet only let the air out, wait till you have a full flow of water out of the faucet then turn the power back on to the unit, the thermostat should beat 120 degrees,