The embroidery needle keeps coming loose mid-stitching
I am trying to embroider - just simple letters - the embroidery needle keeps coming loose during stitching. I am wondering if I need to adjust settings - I am trying to use a relatively stiff stabilizer.
one other embroidery question - is there a "return" key for setting up multi-line lettering?
Your needle is Bent/blunt, you need to change it and then be sure to put your the needle in as hight up in there as it will go, and tighten that as tight as you can! make sure you bobbin area has no lint in that area! keep it dust free!
I need a copy of the Ellure ESL manual anyone that can help!
s h a n a s f a s h i o n s @ h o t m a i l . c o m
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Hai, 1.You should thick and white or blank cover run a letters embroiderys. 2. After don't remove the frame. 3. Put on the embroidery cloth. 4.Marking. 5.Frame setting with smooth needles. 6.Put the frame. 7.Trace the machine after running and finshed the design.
Well, before I did all that (which may be necessary), I would take a piece of UNWAXED dental floss or hand embroidery floss and floss between the tension disks. You mentioned that you were suddenly breaking threads; there may be lint or loose threads or both seated between the disks, preventing the thread from seating properly. Then,
I would take the embroidery unit off and try to do some sewing with it, to see what results I got. If you can catch and bring the bobbin thread to the top with the top thread, I am doubtful that your timing is off. Sew a line of both straight stitch and zigzag stitches, and see if the stitches are balanced. If not, you may have a bobbin tension issue, and if so, most bobbin cases can be adjusted.
I think you'll find, though, that things will improve considerably when you have cleaned out the upper thread path and tension disks. Make sure when you do that, that your foot is raised, so that the disks are spread. Oh, a drop of sewing machine oil wouldn't hurt either--generally you should put a drop of oil for every 5 hours of embroidery.
try these suggestions change the needle check the needle plate for burrs
1. The needle is not inserted correctly
Remove needle & reinsert needle( flat side towards the back of machine)
2. The needle is damaged
replace with new needle
3. The wrong size needle is being used
Choose a needle to suit the thread & fabric
4. The foot not attached correctly
Check & attach correctly
Use cut away stabilizer and if you are already doing this, double the layer.
The needles may be breaking because they are too small or not installed correctly.
Try a size 14 machine embroidery needle and check the manual to see if this is with the flat side of the needle to the back of the machine.
One other thing could be that the timing needs to be adjusted. You can find information on how to set the timing at sewusa.com or take the machine to a professional for service - always take an example when the machine has been mis-stitching.
Make sure you have the flat part of the needle to the back when putting it in and that it's (preferably) a Schmetz embroidery needle with the red band either 75 or 90 or a Schmetz universal 80. Make sure when you install it you can see the top of the needle in the needle slot and all the way up so it's hitting the post before you turn the screw tight. Check the screw each time you sew to make sure it hasn't shaken loose from embroidering.
What do I need to get
started at free machine embroidery?
A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other
words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to
feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your
zigzag stitches too.
An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An
embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the
throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see
what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can
alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into
it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in
that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but
they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to
replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle
with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with
spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery
hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood,
has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring,
separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place
the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull
the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you
squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place
the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still
squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop
is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better
tension on the fabric.
Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while
you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some
are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're
done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery,
as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also
papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water,
leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your
authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent
plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your
authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very
nice. It's expensive though.
Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery
hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the
piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the
piece from the fabric.
Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary
polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the
fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may
want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when
you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery
Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so
you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of
that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought?
Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel
that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the
bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread
will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a
problem with this to date.
How do I prepare the machine
and fabric for free machine embroidery?
Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't
set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that
important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any
stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric
is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to
embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the
fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the
table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right
side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or
special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If
you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place
the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift
the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to
remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then
re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing
machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until
stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
How do I lock the thread at
the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to
Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.
Hi, and welcome to FixYa. If I understand your problem, the needle goes in and out of your fabric, and the embroidery hoop moves, but the machine does not actually start embroidering your design right away....did I get it right? If have time to answer a few questions, I can give more accurate instructions.
How long have you had your machine?
How long have you been doing machine embroidery?
Do you have a manual for your machine?
Look at the back side of your design - do you see lots of bobbin thread, or hardly any?
Have you taken lessons for your machine or for embroidery?
When your design is finished, can you where the machine skipped stitches?
Here a couple of things you can try (if you have already):
Make sure you use an embroidery needle, not a universal. In most cases, you should use a size 90. Change your needle after each project. A blunt need can cause your machine to skip embroidery stitches anywhere in the design.
Rewind or replace your bobbin. Make sure you use bobbin thread in your bobbin when you embroider - it is thinner and gives you better tension. If pre-wound embroidery bobbins are compatible with your machine, I recommend that you try one and compare the result with designs sewn using the bobbin thread you've been using.
Normally, you should loosen your tension a little bit when you embroider. When you look at the back side of your embroidery, you should see more bobbin thread than embroidery thread.
I owned an embroidery business for several years, and I have six different embroidery machines of my own - so with a little more info from you, I think I can help.