a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The LED should be red. If you are not getting power to the sub, make sure the speakers are connected properly to the amp. Also make sure that the gain control is turned up. If it is all the way down, you will not hear anything from the sub(s). If none of that works, it is possible that you have a blown sub. If you smell a burnt smell near the speaker magnet, there is damage to the voice coil in the sub.
First you need to determine what kind of subwoofer it is and by that i mean, is it a dual voice coil subwoofer or a single voice coil sub woofer.
Dual voice coil(DVC)
Depending on how many Ohms each voice coil is you will have the amplifier drive a specific load (4OHM stereo (75 RMS x 2) 150RMS total power / 2OHM stereo(100RMS x 2) 200RMS total power) Connect each voice coils separatley to each speaker output of the amplifier for this configaration. Always making sure that the + & - of each voice coil go to the coresponding location of the speaker outputs of your amplifier.
If your sub woofer is a single 4OHM voice coil then your cables should be connected to the coresponding location on your amplifier which states "BRIDGED" It is marked clearly on the speaker outputs of your amplfier.
If it is a 2OHM then do not connect it to the amplifier. The specific amplifier is not stable at 2OHMS bridged and will most likely get damaged if you try to operate it at that OHM load.
On the side of the amplifier where the adjustments are there is a switch that indicates X-OVER. (LPF/HPF/FULL) Make sure to set it to LPF (Low Pass Filter). (not doing so can damage the subwoofer)
On the left hand side of the X-OVER there is the adjustment for the LPF (30-250) the best setting would be at the same frequency that your speakers stop
If your speakers have a frequency response of 60Hz to 20KHz then setting your LPF to roughly 70 to 80 will be ideal. The rule is that where one speaker drivers frequency ends, the other must continue in order to complete the full range of audible frequencies.
if you have any more questions feel free to ask.
lets do some diagnosis.. if it's possible, try hooking another known good sub up to the amp and see if that works. if it doesnt, it's an issue with your amp. if it does work though, it's an issue with your sub. or the wiring. if it's a dual voice coil sub, make sure you've got both positives hooked up to positive from the amp, and both negatives hooked up to negative from the amp. if you've accidently got positive from the amp going to positive of one voice coil then to the negative of the other, and the negative from the amp going to the negative of one voice coil then to the positive of the other, the voice coils will be pushing against eachother cancelling eachother's movements out. and this will fry the sub. OR the sub is already fried.
I am assuming you are driving a sub-woofer. Run the amp bridged at 4 ohms. So a DVC(dual voice coil) 8 ohm sub with voice coils wired in parallel would give you a 4 ohm load. Just make sure the sub can handle at least 300 Watts Peak.
Start by checking and making sure that you have excellent connections at power,ground, and signal. Depending on the voltage output of your rca wires if you are running rca's to your amp typicaly your amp gain should be only at half - you may be clipping the signal if you have the amp set too high. On your deck you will want your bass settings at only half -again too much boost will cause clipping at the amp. with all your settings adjusted and all possible connections checked- the only thing left to check is the compatibility of your subs in relation to the amp-by that im referring to the overall resistance-measured in OHMS that you are placing on the amp.Your amp is probably rated at about 150wattsx2 at 4 ohms or 200+watts x 2 into 2 ohms or 400-460watts into a 4 ohm bridged load. Look on the magnet of the speakers and find out if you have single coils or dual coils and see what the ohms(resistance) of each sub (or coils) are rated at- ideally you would want a set of dual voice coil 4ohm+4ohm per sub- that way you can match the subs better with your amp.---- Heres a scenario that may or may not apply to you- i see it all the time so im going to share it with you---- If you have a set of single voice coil 4 ohm subs and you are trying to run them wired in parallel to the amp in bridged -then that is why you amp is shutting down- you will have to wire the subs in series until you either get different subs that will yield an overall 4 ohm load -or find a different amp that will take a 2 ohm load - okay for now try wiring the subs in series and see if it still sends out an overcurrent light on you-good luck
it may be a wiring problem you need to make sure all the speaker positives and negatives are correct. I sell alot of hifonics amps and have never had 1 do that. it may also be a bad rca cable. if it only does it when you use the filter i would say not to use it also make sure the gain is no more than 3/4 turned up and the bass boost no more than 1/2. if you have a dif amp try a temp setup using it and if it still does it its a wiring issue. also try 1 speaker at a time on the hifonics and keep adding 1 till it comes back it may be a bad voice coil on 1 sub .
That's a dual voice coil sub. You'll need a two-channel amp (which you probably have - if not, get one and make sure it has a low-pass crossover on it, which you want to turn on and set around 100 Hz). Each voice coil has a + and - connection. Use one channel to power each voicecoil. Make sure you pay attention to the polarities - wire the + of each amp's channels to the + of each voice coil's connections, so that the two coils fire in phase (in the same direction).
Well if you took off the cover on the amp and nothing seems to be burn't, check the voice coils on the sub. It's possible the voice coils have separated and is causing the amp to short it self out due to ground error. If that doesn't help let me know and I'll tell you the next step.