Question about Gateway GT4010 (RBGT4010) PC Desktop

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Gateway lp2207 appears power supply has burn worth repair any suggestion on repair

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  • Anonymous Apr 04, 2009

    I followed the instructions but I don't see any capacitor bulging but there are two green things (I don't know what they're called) that look burnt out labeled c13 and c18. Anyone know what those are?

  • Chris Martin
    Chris Martin Jun 21, 2012

    thanks for the detailed inst. for opening the case. I did find a puffed out 1000uF on the power supply board and 2 puffed out 100uF on the motherboard and replaced them, but still didn't solve my issue. I think the lcd inverter must be fried.

  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    I have a gateway model LP2207 looking for drivers for this...gateway support does not offer anything. help?


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Actually the problem is one of the capacitors on the power supply.
I have the same monitor Gateway LP2207 and just replaced the capacitor.
Here is a step by step guide (I could not find anything on this monitor except what is on this site which is not much)
1. Remove the stand by taking out the 2 screws
2. Remove the 4 Wall mount screws
3. Remove the 3 screws at the bottom back of monitor
4. Pry the rear case off by starting in either the left or right corner at the bottom and work your way
to the center. (Note you WILL break off a little piece of the retainer clip on the inside but its not a major concern as you will not see it when you put it back together) Once you get it split a bit you need to work your way around the sides very carefully.
5. Once you get it split do not pull off the front bezel too fast as the tape wire for the front controls will be attached, all you need to do is pull up in the direction the cable is running and it will pull out very easy, be careful not to damage this tape wire.
6. Once you get the front bezel off there are 4 screws retaining the LCD cage to the rear case, remove these 4 screws.
7.Set the front and rear case cover aside and lay a soft towel down and flip the LCD on its face, next there are 4 screws securing the LCD into the LCD cage (Please note I’m not a professional and don't know the exact names for all the parts but I think once you get the case open you will understand what I'm calling what)
8. Remove the 4 wires on the left of the unit and the cable grouping on the right. you will also need to remove all the taped wires that are secured to the LCD cage.
9. There are 2 parts to the cage, you will need to only remove the top 4 screws and the 2 screws where the monitor speaker is. This is needed only because in order to get the power supply out you need a little space to remove it.
10. Remove the 2 screws where the power cord plugs into
11. Flip the unit over so that you can see the power supply and the video board and remove the * screws holding the power supply into the cage.
12. Remove the wires from the Video board going to the power supply board, you will also need to remove the wire going to the USB hub, this can be done by removing the 2 screws holing the metal protection plate and then pull the wires from the hub.
13. Now remove the power supply and look at the capacitors on the board, you will see the top of the capacitor has a bulge on the top, that is the one that needs to be replaced.
Now here is the good part! if you know how to solder Go down to your local Radio Shack and get a new capacitor for 2.00, replace the capacitor, if not then take the board to your local TV repair shop and tell them to replace the capacitor, it should only cost you about 25 -35 bucks since you did all the work pulling the monitor apart and it only takes them 10 min to remove and replace the capacitor.
Now once you have it repaired put it all back together in the reverse order and you will have yourself a repaired monitor for 35.00 and an hour worth of your time.
I hope this has helped anyone with this monitor and has saved you the time that it took me to search the net (I looked for 2 days and found nothing)

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

  • pclark63 Mar 07, 2011

    Thank you, wonderpop09! I had a LP2207 which finally crapped out on me - I bought a new Samsung 24" display to replace it, but after looking at your post, I decided to see if I could get this gateway running. Sure enough, that 1000uf cap on the power supply was the problem - got a new one for $3.00, and was able to install and the thing runs great. The biggest problem I found was getting that little ribbon cable for the monitor buttons re installed. The rest of it was a piece of cake, following your instructions. Thanks again!


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Additional note to item 5: The "tape wire (AKA flat cable) is held by a latch, the proper way to detach it is by opening the latch rather than just pulling in the direction of the cable (although that did work for me and didn't seem to harm the connector).
The latch is opened by lifting from the direction of the cable, thereby releasing the cable.
Even if you did detach the cable by just pulling, you won't be able to reconnect the cable by just pushing. You need to lift the latch, place the cable all the way in, and lower the latch.
I had 2 power supply capacitors bulging, as well as two (smaller) capacitors on the video processing board. Replaced them all, and my monitor is alive (I got it dumpster diving at the cokputer repait store).

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

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It is important for everyone to know that first: Gateway monitors are built with cheap power supplies ( E131175), second, that Gateway has one of the poorest customer service one can imagine and they refuse to provide schematics that would help.

The problem that seems to be common is those crappy blue ( Made in China) ceramic capacitors. They are half the size of a regular " normal lasting" brown ( Made in Mexico) ones.

Go to

Solution number 3 , wonderpop09 provides a perfect description on how to access the power supply

The 12J , value is 12 Picofarads at 3KV. The N3, have not found the value.

I replaced my defective 12J...and Voila!!, my monitor is back on service

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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I was not able to find the lp2207 model, but I did find the GT4010.
By looking at the GT4010, the specs say that it has a 300 watt power supply, which is fine.

Ok, if only the power supply died, then I say it is worth it to buy a new one, which are around $50-$70, depending on the watts. Just check to see that the power supply didn't take any other pc parts with it to the grave!!

To repair, open your case and remove the old power supply, taking care to notice and write down what it connects to.
It should be:

1. A giant 20 or 24 pin plug to the motherboard. Some motherboards have more holes than pins on the power supply cable, so please check which holes go empty, if any.
2. Maybe also a 4 pin plug near the CPU chip.
3. Power cables to the hard drives, CD/DVD.

You will now shop for an ATX power supply, with at least 300 watts, the more the better, but really 500 is great.
Of course, get one that is the same size as the old one, or you won't be able to screw it in the case.

Now you are ready to install it back in the case, connecting the giant plug, the 4 pin plug if available near the CPU chip, and the hard drive and CD/DVD power cables.

If maybe just the CPU fan turns on, but no sound, video, beeps, or anything, no boot up.....than maybe the power supply also killed the motherboard. In that case, it may be time to think about a new computer.
But if the computer boots fine, hooray!! Job well done.

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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I found a replacement on ebay (search use part #) and exchanged myfroken one for the power supply with new capacitors. good $ also. 

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

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A new power supply can be obtained for a reasonable amount. (Under $50)

If you have a computer repair shop nearby, sometimes you can get a used one for an even better price.

If you are sure it is the power supply, I would definitely try to get a replacement, unless this is a really old system. Actually, I could not find the model you referenced. (lp2207). Is that the correct model?

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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