Bought the gas oven in 2005, Sears replaced the EOC twice under warranty, I paid for one in Sep of 08, went out in Dec 08 and again 1 week later, now Sears is telling me that they will not send another one (under warranty) until I have a service call. Could there be an underlying issue? I have heard that these are refurbished parts and not new. The EOC starts to go dim then in a few days no display at all. In Dec it was flashing a f1 or an f13 it was hard to see, The last one just went dead no display, no oven light, the burners still work and the warming drawer works, nothing else the model is 79018672401
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Re: clock/timer (EOC) out for the fifth time
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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This range was made by Frigidaire for Kenmore. Thus the F3 error could mean a problem with the temperature sensor, the EOC (electronic oven control) or the wiring between the two. You'll need to get to the back of the range and check the resistance at the sensor. In a ~70 degree F environment, the sensor should have a resistance of ~1100 Ohms. (The sensor is connected to the EOC by a pair of violet wires.) Make sure to rule out a problem with the wires, if the resistance tests out of specifications.
If the sensor gives the correct resistance and the wires are fine, replace the EOC. Please check that you have given the full model number, I can't find this model anywhere at Sears Parts Direct or elsewhere.
If the stove is under warranty, contact Sears for repairs. I hope this helps.
Power from switchboard > oven circuit cabling > supply terminals of oven > high temp cutout > timer > multifunction switch. usually the high temp, if so, check the cooling fan is working. Watch out for dodgy crimp connections on the wires (mechanical stripping can nick strands off the wire making a hot spot)
It sounds like your Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board is defective. This is the clock/timer assembly on the operator console. The EOC controls all the features for your oven, but the surface burners work independently. So, if the surface burners still work, the oven does not and the display is not present, its time to replace the EOC. The following link explains how:
Prices vary between these sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also offer helpful exploded view diagrams to help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The EOC will be listed under the "Control Panel" parts section as item 2. The price and part number will depend upon the last three digits of the model number.
If you have questions please post back with a complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.
After much effort, and thanks to ABSOLUTELY NO HELP from Lowe's (where I bought this range)OR any of the contact numbers their 1-800-# referred me to (ie. SEARS Appliance repair in Californina, Chicago, etc.) or the the local Warranty repair service here (where we were finally referred to - they were "too" busy" to come look at it until 7 days later on June 25),
I managed to find out that the "F30" error code meant an "Open probe connection". and to "check resistance at room temp & compare to RTD Sensor resistance chart. If resistance does not match the RTD chart replace RTD Sensor Probe. Chck Sensor wiring harness between EOC & Sensor Probe connection". I had no way to troubleshoot all of this or even to know where to look for the RTD probe or the wiring harness hookup. By the time I was able to find out what the error code mean't, I had taken the range back to Lowes where they tried to tell me that they shouldn't take it back because I had bought it a week earlier - even though It sat in the box and was not installed until 7 days after purchased. They finally took it back.
I promptly went to another appliance dealer (not Lowes or Sears) and bought a similar range which worked fine upon hookup. Too much hassle dealing with these folks.
I had the same oven panel overlay bubbling problem on my GE oven purchased in 2008. It started peeling and bubbling within the 1 yr warranty, and GE sent me a replacement panel. This new part began bubbling again within 4 months. Again, I called but now they say it's out of warranty and they will not replace it. Obviously there's a manufacturing defect in this part. The panel looks terrible. It appears that GE no longer cares about the quality of their products.
It's a bad capacitor on the clock/display board. The solution was posted elsewhere in FixYa. I had the same problem and was told I should replace the clock/display board, which would solve the problem, but costs about $150 plus labor. If you can desolder/solder small components on an electronic circuit board, you can fix this yourself. Mine was capacitor C3, originally a 68uF 35V component. I replaced it with a 68uF 63V as the closest one I could find at Jameco.com which was less than a $1. Lo and behold, my clock/display is back to normal! Saved a lot of money to fix it myself and I know it will happen again over time, so I know exactly what to do next time.
Looks like you will need the eoc to fix this one. If yours has a keypad that is separate from the eoc I would disconnect the ribbon first and see if the code goes away. If it does then the keypad needs replaced. If it is a keypad/eoc all in one then you need to replace it. Sears is good place to buy parts. You could compare prices a http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ also. I recommend Sears because of warranty and customer service.