Re: Saw idles great but as soon as I stop throttle in log...
The wife bought me a Wild Thing for Christmas at my asking. Went to use it on Saturday and it would not run for squat...I had to make my own Carb adjusting tool because they have changed the idle mixture screws to make it more painful to do...backout the L for Low Idle screw about 1/4 of a turn. Once you get it to idle and can actually slow the idle down enough so it runs correctly you can then fine tune the mixture at an idle. Then full throttle it and see if it runs ok there. If it does, your ready to go..If not, back it out, counterclockwise 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn and see how well it runs. Basically from what I can tell, they did a really bad job of setting the carb at the factory!
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Hey on the carburetor there is 2 mixture screws 1 is for idle up to 1/4 throttle the other is for 1/4 to full throttle the one for idle is closest to the engine. screw it all the way in then unwind it 1 turn. The screw the furthest from the engine screw it all the way in then unscrew it 1 1/4 turns Try to start the saw with just a little throttle. this setting is pretty standard. When you get it to idle then rev the saw and it cuts out as it returns to idle it's running to rich. Just adjust the screw in a little say 1/8 at a time. When it's to lean as soon as you throttle on it will stall. If you have no luck with this...you have a air leak from the carby gasket or the bolts are loose or a blocked exhaust
There are a few reasons for this, either the saw is idling too fast, or the clutch springs have become weak and the shoes are coming out too early, or the bearing in the sprocket is dry and dragging on the crankshaft, remove the clutch, if you can pull the shoes out by hand the springs need replacing, remove the sprockey and free off/ grease the central bearing.
I had this problem with a hedgecutter. It turned out that the springs were broken in the clutch. If the engine doesn't stall immediately when the trigger is released and you notice the chain running slowly then this would be an indication that it might be the problem.
MAKE SURE WHEN YOU START A JOB YOU NEED TO PULL THE UPPER BAR TOWARDS YOU IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE CARB CHOKE SENSOR.WHEN YOU DO A COLD START THE UPPER BAR GO TO THE FRONT POSITION TO WARM IT UP OR STOP SAW JOB.
If you haven't already adjusted the carb there are usually 3 adjustments. H - adusts performance at full throttle (how it cuts in the wood). L - adjusts performance at idle and accelleration to full throttle.It sounds as though those are fine. The third adjustment T - is the throttle or idle speed (often away from the other 2). If my saw that is the one adjustment I'd make. You supplied no make or model, it is difficult to provide what you requested without them. HTH
The "T" position is just a mechanical stop for the Throttle. It adjusts the idel speed by keeping the throttle from closing all of the way. The "H" and "L" screws adjust carburator jets that feed the motor at High and Low speeds.
Sound like the clutch is not disengging. The springs in it are likely week. Take note as to weather the chain stops when it is idleing. If it seem to idle at a reasonable speed and the chain does not stop turning, the clutch is most likely the problem. This problem can be caused by trying to work the saw without the throttle wide open. When the clutch slips it creates heat wich will over heat, and weeken the springs used to disengage the clutch. It is also possible that it was defective when new.