My washer drains but then continues to fill with water.
My washer spins and drains fine. When the load is finished (for even when no clothes are in the washer) water still trickles in where water comes into the washer and then will pool in the washer until I drain it.
Re: my washer drains but then continues to fill with...
There is a small piece that is inside where the water runs into the machine it is called a water inlet valve. I had the same problem a few months ago. I know the part is not that expensive but the labor was. When the repair man left I looked at the part and thought I should have tried to fix it myself. It was only a couple of screws.
Hope this helps.
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Keeping in mind that the soap & bleach gets dispensed into your wash on the
second to last rinse cycle and that most all rinse cycles are in cold
water. Is your cold water valve screen plugged causing your washer to
rinse poorly? Are you using the HE detergent? If not maybe the
washer is sudsing up to much and having a hard time rinsing all the
suds and bleach out and leaving the clothes soapy.
Fill the washer up with no clothes in it on a cold/cold wash setting
does it take a long time to fill the washer up? Also when it is full
and agitating is there suds in the washer?
Last suggestion is if the drain is hose is a lot higher than the top of
the washer it might have a hard time draining out all of the soap
water before the next load
first, run a rinse,drain & spin cycle. after it finishes filling, shut the water supply (taps) off. If water enters the washer after the drain, it has to be sifoning back in from the DRAIN hose. Check to see if the drain hose is not going up above the washer more than a few inches
The start of the spin cycle is dependent on the pump pumpin out water and the later level switch sensing that the water level is low enough. The water level switch has (usually) a clear tube connected to it and is found in the control panel. You will want to check continuity at different times. First you will fill the tub to the highest water level. Then unplug the machine. By screwing in the screw on the water level switch. Scew it all the way in. then you will check continutity. there should be no cont. between green and brown. and there should be cont between green and black or yellowblack. Do this continuity test with the wires off the switch. Once this test is complete, reattach the wires and plug in the machine and set the timer on spin or drain. When the tub is pumped dry, stop the spin cycle and unplug the washer and do the continuity test again. This time you should have continutiy from green to brown. and no continuity from green to black or yellowblack. Now when i mention the colors that means the placement where those wires were. Make note before you remove them so that you can get them back to place. If you do not get these readings, the water level switch is bad, or there is a leak in the air pressure tube leading to it. At that point I would replace the entire switch and tube. I wish you the best of luck.
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.
It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
i have a kenmore 70 series washer model 10020722990
it will fill with water but will not wash. if you put it on spin the water will drain but it will not spin. it sounds like the motor turning. is it a clutch that has broken.