Blue powerr light comes on led digital screen with temp and volt meter the fan lights n evrty thing
hooked up my two 18 inch ma audio subs 1100 watts peak 550 rms
no sound or anything thought subs were bad maybe but i hooked my memphis 15,s to it no go and the memphis were playin on another amp as of yesterday so sum thin is wrong with the amp every thing comes on except no sound from the subs
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Disconnect the speakers and then try it again...there may be a shorted speaker or wire if the amp comes out of protect after you disconnect the wires...if the amp stays in protect after you disconnect the wires then there is a problem inside the amp with the circuitry and it will need to get serviced by an electronic tech
this is caused by inproper wiring from the speakers/subs to the amplifier.. an amp will still put out power to subs and speakers when it's wired improperly but it won't last for very long doing it... 6 months is longer than usual....
If there is no protection light on, be sure the input is on. Some head units need to be turned on manually (factory set to OFF).
Verify the subwoofers are wired properly.
A list of your components would help to solve your problem.
If it is new, it should still be under warranty - worst case scenario output transistor(s) blown, or power supply bad.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
Turn the system off and disconnect the speakers. Turn the system on. If the amp still goes into protection mode with no speakers connected, then most likely the output transistors are bad. If the protection light is off, hook up one sub at a time until you find the one that is causing the problem
I have found the problem to my Kenwood KAC-7202. The amps fan was the only thing that would come on thats it. So I started checkin zener diodes cause all transistors checked out fine. So I remember readinf about a guy that had same problem and took it to a shop and they said it was some diodes. Well, thats what I was thinkin or the transformer. It turned out that 1 zener diode was no good, diode D9 1ss133. I took a zener out of an old vcr I use for parts and put it in and the fan came on as usual then the red light. Then I hooked my mp3 player to the rca input and hooked up some speakers and it works great. Hope this helps you other guys with the same problem. Check your zener diodes with a digital volt meter, if you get any measurement other than the reverse impedance which will read between 600 and 1200 ohms some lower or higher and then reverse the leads on your meter and if you get any reading it's no good and the reading will be 0-50 cause mine read 047 ohms.
With your multimeter set to DC volts and the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp, touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals as the amp shuts down. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is dropping too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
Check the fuse on the amplifier; if it's good, then you need a multimeter or voltmeter for further testing. With the meter's black probe on your amp's ground terminal and the radio turned on, both the power and the remote terminals should test at about 12 volts. If neither terminal shows voltage, you may have a problem with your ground connection; if both do, there's a problem with the amp.