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Re: Need motor & impellor for Hobart AM8
I havn't seen an AM8 in over 15 years.
Hobart will keep parts available for quite a few years past end of production, but this may be too long. The AM 10 and early 12's are compatable.
You need a 6 bolt pump to motor. Yours has the old cast iron wash arms. All the new have light stainless arms. Just checked my records. the new AM12 which superceeded your design was in 1981. Perhaps look around for a used AM14 which fits your tables and plumbing. Confirm the voltage is compatable.
The AM15 is the current spec and is far superior.
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check the center of the impeller, it should be flat on one side round on three, the impeller might be rounded out from the shaft it sits on. You might just need a new impeller. Good Luck, N let me know Thanks. jimmy
It depends on how bad the wear is. You can trim the roughness off the impellor with a craft knife. Also check the stator impellor housing for damage as well and try to flatten or scrape off any bits of roughness where it shouldnt be. Make sure the motor impellor is pressed firmly together before re-fitting to the stator.
I would check out this site for parts, you can order, pay for and have delivered to your door. You can also let them know, before you order, that you live in Sydney Australia, and ask if there is anything you should have that is different. I think the parts will be the same, but it doesn't hurt to be sure. Good Luck.
instead of motor check out the motor impeller that can make the high pitched noise if rusted or cracked.
Motor and pump assembly screw and impellor help....
One of the most common question that I get on a dishwasher repair is "how does that motor and pump impellor screw come out?" Inside many dishwasher pump assemblies is a screw that goes through the upper impellor and screws directly into the motor shaft. Since the motor shaft and screw are made of metal...you guessed it...they can / will rust. The screw can rust and become very tight and difficult to remove!! These screws are normally a right ( regular ) hand thread, socket or nut driver can be used to remove the screw. One hard thing to do is to hold the impellor still so the screw can be removed, they often just turn together. The impellor may be jammed with a screwdriver to hold it still so the screw can be removed...sometimes the impellor can be help still by placing a rag on it and hold tight with your hand, the rag will help prevent a sharp edge on the impellor from cutting your fingers. The odd time that screw is too rusted into place, soaking a little rust buster or 3in1 oil on it over night may help loosen it. Sometimes trying to tighten the screw a little at first will help break it free. There are some tool ( see below ) that can be purchased to help hold the impellor still so the screw can be removed, these are only for a few models and pump assembly styles. WLP seal tool helps center and install the pump seal Frigidaire seal - impellor remover and install tool Once the screw is removed, the next obstacle is the impellor can also get stuck onto the motor shaft. Many times I have to break off the old impellor. A sharp blow straight down with a hammer and flat screwdriver will often crack the plastic impellor...careful not to damage the pump body! If the motor shaft has indeed rusted, clean it up really good with sand cloth.
If this is a new occurance, and not "since it was installed", it may be the drain impellor. Little fins on top of the impellor sometimes get worn off. It is under the lower wash arm in the pump housing. The only trick to taking the pump apart is not loosing any of the shims.
Also, (and most likely if the unit looses water during the wash cycle), any obstruction to the drain valve can cause it to not drain proper. The drain valve uses a little flapper valve to drain the unit. It has a rubber stopper that needs to properly close. The drain valve is at the front of the unit with a red coil and white plastic body. It needs to be closely inspected. (page 22)
If this is a problem since it has been installed, it is likely due to the running of the external drain line. (Too high)