Question about GE JVM1441 Microwave Oven

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GE JVM1440BD Microwave hood lights don't work

I have a GE JVM1440BD range hood microwave oven.
I was changing the range hood bulb (without unplugging, bad idea I know that now) and now I have no hood lights at all.

When I press the light button once I hear a beep but no relay click.
On the second press, I get a beep AND I hear the relay click.
The third press I also hear the relay.

Could it be that the "night light" relay is fried.
I assume it could be used for both night and bright hood light.

Also any ideas on where to get this relay? the part number is:
CS11-24SH
I figure it's worth a shot replacing it before replacing the board.

Thanks

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  • 3 more comments 
  • mjdupre Jan 09, 2009

    I meant the "bright light" relay, as that should be the first that in engaged.

  • mjdupre Jan 09, 2009

    I don't see any visible damage to the circuit board tracings.

    I'm considering swapping the relays, I'm assuming that the "night light" relay is good, as I hear it click on the second push of the light button. I assume the second relay reduces the brightness by dropping the voltage to the light by adding a resistor to the circuit (or something like that, been a long time since my EE days).

    I'm assuming that both relays are only needed for the "night lite" mode. If this works, I'll order a new relay.




  • mjdupre Jan 10, 2009

    Swapped the relays and the lights now work (in high beam mode anyway). I've ordered the replacement relay and will replace when it arrives.

  • mjdupre Jan 10, 2009

    Thanks, I'll check the diode when I get the new relay.
    Right now I'm just glad to have the lights working again, never really used the "night lite" anyway.




  • mjdupre Jan 21, 2009

    It seems to me that adding an inline fuse on the wire to the light bulbs would eliminate this problem, or at least protect the circuit board.
    of course this would have run up the cost per unit by at lest 50 cents Any thoughts on this, there seems to be plenty of room.

    Anyone point me to the correct wire and suggest the amperage for the fuse ?


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  • GE Master
  • 8,820 Answers

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week.

At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.

If your relay is bad and you want to replace it yourself, it is part # 3501-001050 and you can find helpful exploded view diagrams of your microwave and order that part here.

Be sure to also do any needed circuit board repair with 30AWG wire to prevent it from doing worse damage if another bulb shorts.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

  • William Miller
    William Miller Jan 10, 2009

    Also look for and check the "dimming diode", a black diode usually located between the light relay and the connector.

    (Not to be mistaken for the tinier red-bodied diode on the other side of the relay that protects the relay coil).

    If it is shorted, you will have bright lights in both the bright and dim settings.

    Replacement rectifier diode is not critical and can be any of these: 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N4003, 1N4004, 1N4005, 1N4006, 1N4007, NTE116, or NTE125.




  • William Miller
    William Miller Jan 23, 2009

    I don't put fuses in them, but when I do the repair, I use 30AWG wire (wire wrapping wire) because its current carrying capacity is about 1 amp.

    If I didn't have wire wrapping wire, I'd use a single strand from an old lamp cord.

    You want your wire to be small enough to just carry the current and if there is a short, you want it to blow open well before the relay or other traces on the board do.

    If you're using a fuse, the wire size is not so critical. Make it big enough so it won't snap from handling. Wire from a "wall wart" ac adapter cord, for instance.

    Here's the formula to determine fuse size:

    watts / voltage = current

    If you have two 20 watt bulbs, that's 40W.

    Your line voltage is of course 120VAC.

    So 40W/120V = .33A

    Then we "derate" the fuse upward to somewhere between 0.5A and 1A to account for lamp turn-on surges.

    There you are.


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Where did you get the replacement relay cs11-24sh. I have the same problom and also have traced it back to e relay but can't find any where online to buy a replacement one.

Posted on Mar 13, 2010

  • Anonymous Jul 06, 2010

    Where did you get the replacement relay?

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