Our gas range will not ignite. The oven had been cooking for 90 min and the flame seemed to go out about 10 min before time. After that, the oven would not start again. The igniters make a 'clicking' sound, but the flame never ignites. Any ideas? and is this something an amateur can fix?
thanks for any help.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.
· Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
· The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.
· Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.
· Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system.
1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.
Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.
If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.
CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
If what your experiencing with the oven is that the oven igniter glows but their is no flame,the cause of that is going to be because the igniter is weak and not getting hot enough to open the gas valve and allow the gas to flow. I know it seems improbable that since the igniter glows that it's the problem but i tell ya with 100 assiduity that's exactly what the problem is. Replacing the igniter will fix your oven.
The problem beleive it or not is that the bake igniter is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake igniter(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of igniter make sure only one wire,either one and not both. if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake igniter. I know it seems improbable that if the igniter comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the igniter comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak igniter is the cause 100% of the time The part number for that igniter is 98005652 it could be purchased from your local appliance parts store or online at; repairclinic.com apdepot.com searspartsdirect.com apwagner.com midwestapplianceparts.com
The oven has a temperature sensor inside. The sensor tells the oven when to go on and off. It may need replacement. The sensor is protrudes from the back left wall of the inside of the oven. Make sure that it is fully plugged in and that it is not covered with any goop from the oven. The other things you can check is that nothing is obstruction the heat. That means NO foil or coverings on the bottom of the oven. It blocks the heat vents and can damage your oven. Underneath the floor of you oven, you will find the gas jets.The flame should come out blue and steady. It it is sputtering and orange, the little holes might be blocked. Clean carefully.
This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is how to determine if the igniter is bad. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. An igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad. An igniter should only take 30-90 seconds to ignite.
TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES: Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work. Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work. NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available. For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps: NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.
UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.
Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.