Occasionly I will get pressure for as long as I hold the trigger
But if I let off the trigger I will not get any pressure the next time I pull the trigger. I have taken the pump apart and cleaned it and checked all the valves except the upper most (looks like a relief valve) which I don't know how to take apart. I have cleaned the intake filter which had quite a bit of calcium deposit. What could be causing this problem.
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Most like you need to check the 'U' shaped core in the pickup if it is broke no flash.
If this is not the problem then you need to open the unit get a coated wire stripped ends 0.5 inches. there is a large yellow capacitor. Short this out first! Mostly this cap has a problem with loosening the solder joint(s) so check this first. The next area would be the flashtube area. Check the diodes and there is a trigger transformer. The phone number is 800-627-5655 Chris and Evy run the repair dept.
Travis, If you have a R60 you can find the fuel filter in the bottom of the pickup tube. Pull the pickup tube out of the fuel tank, then take a small screw driver and pop the small cone shaped fuel screen out. I take either carb and choke cleaner or brake cleaner and spray it out then blow out with compressed air. I'm having trouble with mine also, and I had to turn down fuel pressure (fuel pressure on R60 is suppose to be 3.4psi) but I don't have a fuel pressure gauge that goes that low!! Go to DESA TECH.com they have a lot of good info there. Hope this helps you out!!!
It's likely leveled past it's leveling limit. You can try pulling out the 4 screws holding the bottom out, and very carefully opening the bottom of the laser. The main circuit board is attached to the base, so do not pull apart hard or too far. Next mark all the connectors on the board, and what wires go to them, and pull them all out. Remove the bottom completely and you should see the leveling assembly. Move the gears so the leveling system is more centered. Put it back together and test. If it doesn't work then you have something mechanically out of alignment or electronic values have messed up, and you have have to bring it somewhere for repair.
if you have good water flow to it and you have water coming out of the lance when you pull the trigger but its not under presure then it will most likely be bad valves in the pump head or worst case a fault in the pump. any questions just ask away
Look for a black plastic cover with a
silver snap on top; pry off the silver snap and lift off the plastic
cover; next remove the two screws on the top plate then pull out the
piston inside - if unable to lift out, start unit and watch it pop out
- coat piston with lithium grease and reinstall.
The sticking pressure relief valve is
somewhat common with the Karcher 2400HH series pressure washer, it is
caused by hard water and lack of grease on the pressure relief valve.
To remedy the problem, use silicone (plumbers) grease to lube the
o-rings on the unloader valve part# 4591040 (karcher calls it a spill
valve on the parts list) You can click on the link below for more help.
A helpful note, if you store your pressure washer for long periods of
time, than you should draw anti-freeze into the pump for storage...
make a short 2' garden hose and connect it to the inlet of the pump,
with a funnel stuffed into the end, poor anti-freeze into the hose and
start the engine, this will draw the solution into the pump and protect
it from corrosion and keep all internal parts lubricated (plus keep the
pump from freezing).
On the Master Control Lever, you will notice a round reciever on the left side of the lever shaft. This holds the round terminal of the black wire in place. As the lever is rotated upward, the shaft brings the terminal of the black wire into contact with the flat brass spring (which belongs ON TOP of the lever shaft) and thereby stops the engine.
If the throttle trigger is pulled each time the lever is set to choke, this will never again be an issue. However, if the lever is pushed all the way down to choke and the throttle trigger isn't pulled, the linkage will malfunction again.
ALWAYS pull the throttle trigger before you set the choke.
Normally, one setting or the other is the issue. When both are issues, one has to suspect mechanical damage. You can try to adjust the "quick and dirty" way:
Start the compressor and when you get to where you want it to cut off, pull the plug....really. Now, adjust the HP spring adjustment until the contacts break.
Then, open the drain on the tank, and let the pressure fall to where you want it to cut in. Close the valve. Adjust the LP adjustment until the contacts make.
There is also a differential pressure adjustment in some pressure switches; if you adjust this to narrow or widen your range, you must challenge and retest your upper and lower settings.
If you cannot manipulate the settings to open or close the contacts, the problem is probably mechanical. and the switch should be replaced. These are wierd little pieces of equipment; they are pneumatic, mechanical, and electrical, all at the same time. Sometimes you have to just hoist the flag and get a new one!
Good luck, and best regards, --W/D--
Hi, Its sound like your compressor is not turned on. Make sure your compressor is plug in, and the (on and off) switch is turned on. Check the pressure gage to see what psi you have. You need at lease 90psi. If you don't have that much pressure, There should be an adjusting knob below the gage. Turn the knob until you get the proper psi.
If this doesn’t work for you, please write back.Thanks,
Professional-grade varieties are automatic, and fire a nail directly upon pulling the trigger. A semi-automatic nail gun is more appropriate for beginners, since it requires a two step process: pull the trigger and then tap the barrel against the wood. This safety feature protects the user from accidentally firing a nail gun and injuring himself or others.