Question about Hotpoint NBXR463EBWW Electric Dryer

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Red dot heating element for electric dryers connect color wires

I need help connecting the wires my new electri dryer heating element
the element is a red dot by WPL 37001139, this is the repair kit . Does anyone have the instructions to install this, can someone help ?

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Hello necie7006,
Please use the link here http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php which depicts the heating element configuration . If this does NOT provide you adequate details on how to wire the element, please get back to me and I may be able to help you further.
Regards,
Rick

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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Whirlpool electric dryer high thermostat replacement


test all this steps in according with your model, electric or gas. God bless you


Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn't heat, but the drum turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is blown, it will have to be replaced.


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Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner assembly. If the dryer doesn't heat one or more of the solenoids may be defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame doesn't light, replace these coils as a set.


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Dryer Igniter

If the dryer doesn't heat, the igniter might be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


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Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element should be checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Heating Element Assembly

The heating element assembly on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Flame Sensor

Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn't heat, the flame sensor might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


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High Limit Thermostat

Although not common, if the dryer doesn't heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn't heat.


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Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn't heat it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


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Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer doesn't heat. Check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is defective.


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Timer

The timer is normally not at fault if the dryer doesn't heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer.

Jul 21, 2013 | Dryers

2 Answers

I put a new heating element in and I'm not sure about the wiring on the bottom


themobilian_1592.jpg
Your 2 red wires power the element whilst that orange wire feeds
the timer motor when that element ain't in use. You can't mix the 2 red ones up.

Feb 26, 2011 | Roper RES7646KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a Bosch nextt 500 series dryer and after 2 years of use the problem I have is the heat will shut off and the dryer will keep running and I have to press the reset button on the backside of the dryer


Open the front panel, remove heat exchanger and clean. also clean out lint tray. this might help a little. Now lets check if the thermal sensor or heating element needs to be replaced.
Unplug the dryer. remove the panel in the back of the dryer that covers the heating element. ( the inner panel). On top of the heating element you will see a thermal sensor with a small red button on it. Thats the manual reset button. To test if the heating element is working properly you can disconnect the wires from the sensor and clip the connectors together . Plug the dryer back in and start it. pay attention to the heating element. It should begin to glow shortly. if it doesn't then your heating element is bad and needs to be replaced.

Unplug the dryer. Connect the wires back to the thermal sensor. Plug the dryer back in. Before you start the dryer, press the red button on the thermal sensor. Start the dryer. If the heating element doesn't come on and dryer doesn't heat, then you need to replace that sensor.

Feb 01, 2011 | Bosch Axxis WTL 5410 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Lg rd3500 147* not working what doooooooo


Well first of all, I checked the manual, and this is not in there.
I was drying my clothes and it stopped working. The lights in the ring that choose what kind of a load you want...well the first three are blinking. The second two are not. It will not let me choose a load or drying time, and if I press start, the thing inside goes around once and then stops. I looked in the filter basket and there's nothing in there and I wiped the sheet off.
Now the lights aren't blinking and I can choose an option, but it only goes for like a minute and then stops
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. LEG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm check instead.
1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

2-Canister for the heater element.

3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

please comment on these solution by saying how helpful.mean vote.

Dec 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Whirlepool electric dryer stopped heating.


This could definitely cause a dryer no heat problem and a potential house fire. Purchase a new dryer cord and replace it. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

Follow the 3-prong wire color code provided. If the new dryer cord does not have any colors (all gray) simply make sure the center conductor gets connected to neutral (WHITE) at the terminal block on the back of the dryer. There should also be a grounding strap or ground wire (GREEN) attached to the neutral at the temrinal block. Each outer wire will then get connected to either of the two hot (RED and BLACK) terminals.

The reason your dryer still may tumble in spite of a bad dryer cord is because the drive motor only uses 110-120VAC while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If one of the dryer cord conducters is burned in half, you may only be getting half your input voltage to the dryer. A voltage reading across the two hot terminals (left and right slots) at the wall receptacle should read 220-240VAC. You should also read this same voltage across the red and black wires at the terminal block. If not, you have a bad cord.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jul 29, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


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4 Answers

Powers on wont heat lg dle2532w


better to unplug the unit for an hour.

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3 Answers

Will not heat up??


Hi,
Same model, same problem - we've had the unit for almost 2 years. But it looks like we solved the problem just now:
After unplugging the unit, we opened up the back and there is a little red button mounted on a black plastic box that's wired to the unit. It's a reset button - we pushed it, and the heat is back on! I hope this solution helps.

Jun 23, 2008 | Danby DCD5505W Electric Dryer

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Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101


Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.

Dec 01, 2007 | Kenmore 72982 Gas Dryer

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