Question about Master Heaters Master B115DT 115,000BTU Fan Forced Air Heater with Thermostat

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Keeps brackeing the carbone disk that runs the fuel pump

We have replaced it 5 times

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  • 232 Answers

Are you setting the gap between the rotor and the pump body? .003-.005 each time
If the answer is yes, then check the shaft of the motor. Up & down movement of the shaft indicates a bad bearing and the movement will kill the gap that has been set and cause breakage of the rotor!
How to properly replace a rotor

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Runs when started but won't stay running.


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Feb 13, 2014 | Reddy HEATER R70DT 70,000-BTU PORTABLE...

1 Answer

I have a mpi 2400 monitor. I ran low on fuel so I went and got 4 or 5 gallons to keep it going till my delivery came, but it keeps shutting of and getting an error E 14. I know this means there are...


usually when you run out of oil,you need to bleed off air. there's a bleeder on pump looks like bleeder on a car brake cylinder.atach a piece of rubber hose and run to a bottle, open it up when pump is running till all you get is oil.

Jan 25, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My lazer 73 is giving me a fan motor error code (EE 8) but I think my fuel pump might be out also. before I take apart the whole stove; is there a way to diagnose the fuel pump?


The fuel pump will make a loud thumping noise if it isn't getting any fuel to it. You can use a long screwdriver like stethoscope and listen to it to see if it is running. It won't start until you see the burner lights come on (about 3 minutes after you turn it on). There is a way also to hook 120vac to it with the fuel line off, but I will have to put that on here tomorrow after I look at one. As far as your fan goes, either take the exhaust hose off the back or remove the front and remove the black rubber boot from the blower motor (easiest). Then use your finger or a pencil and reach in and try to turn the fan. You may hear a slight crunching sound from carbon breaking loose. Keep turning until it turn free. You can use a shop vac to clean some out.

Jan 18, 2011 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

Keep getting E1 error code, where is the fuel pump located? where is the fuel filter located on my dyna glo deluxe multi feul 170000 btu heater


The fuel pump is directly behind the fan motor as the fan motor runs both. The fuel filter is under the electrical control panel on the side of the heater usually has four to six 5/16 head sheet metal screws that hold it on. Remove the screws and then the cover comes off and this is where you will find the fuel filter.

Dec 21, 2010 | Reddy Heater-170,000 BTU Kerosene Deluxe

1 Answer

My Monitor 441 won't ignite. I hear ticking (pump running) and verified that the keorsene is going through the solenoid. There is no ignition and then it times out. Can you help?


When you say fuel is going through the solenoid, do you mean you removed the fuel line from the burner and fuel comes out the line when you try to start? If so, you have proved the fuel system from the tank, fuel sump and fuel pump is good. Now, does the igniter get hot? Feel around the lower area where two white wires go into the burner, it should get warm. Remove the window and clean it. You will have to replace the gaskets, as they may break. Stick a paper clip down the fuel nozzle about 3 inches to clear any carbon. Remove the flame sensor and clean it. Same thing with the gasket. Put all back together and try it again. If you see flame and the stove quits you have a problem with the burner.
If there is no flame, you have an iginter problem. This will be very clear when you remove the igniter.
When was the last time the stove was serviced? If it was more than two years ago you need a service.

Good luck,

Tom

Oct 09, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My reddy heater was running and ran out of fuel at which time it gave off a foul exhaust. Was this exhaust carbon monxide or just the sulfer smell associated with kerosene?


probably both and unburnt fuel also. when the unit ran out it still pumped a small quantity of fuel into the hot burner chamber where it turned to smoke and was expelled. carbon monoxide itself is odorless and what is normally referred to as c. o. odor are unburnt fuel products, some of which smell pretty strange.

Jan 14, 2010 | Reddy Heater-170,000 BTU Kerosene Deluxe

1 Answer

Toyostove laser 73error codes


EE 6 can be some kind of obstruction in the fuel line causing the fuel to not reach the heater. It could be the high limit switch being activated. For that they say clean the fan, and fan cover. Your tank could be too high. The fuel sump valve could be malfunctioning. I think you would need to replace the pump for that. (It probably is not that as your heater does run for a while.) Finally it could be a flame sensor malfunction. Did you notice if there is a lot of carbon built up in your heat pot? It could be building up on the flame rod, causing the heater to not be able to sense a flame. Is your burner ring (the metal thing that sets inside the heat pot) warped? This will cause your heater to go out from time to time as the fame burns erratic and too hot, building up more carbon. Replacing that burner ring if it is warped could solve all your problems. You might wantt o replace the burner mat while you are at it.
:)

Dec 31, 2008 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

Toyostove Laser 73 EE2


Not having a cleaning in the last couple years may be the problem. Carbon build up in the burner pot and on the flame rod (a chain of carbon) will cause the flame to not be sensed. Then the flame will burn out. A temp solution would be to unplug the stove, then unscrew and jiggle the flame rod to break the chain. When tightening the screws do not over tighten. You could also try hitting the edge of the pot to see if you can knock the carbon loose. You could also have a warped burner ring which would cause problems keeping the stove running.

Nov 03, 2008 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

1 Answer

Lazer 56


Hi EJAKFbanks,

I believe by your description and my 8 years experience with Toyo Stove repair that you are missing part of the firing sequence. The firing sequence for a Toyo Stove L 56 is to blink on the burner light for 7-9 minutes, then it clicks up to the medium light (amber-yellow color). The medium light blinks and that is when the fuel pump kicks on and starts to pump. If the stove ignites, the medium light will glow for a second and then drop down to the low light (green) The low light will burn for awhile and at this time you will see a blue flame in the newer heat chamber models or a red glow, and perhaps some blue flame in the older heat chamber models, then the stove will kick up to the medium light for a bit, and then to the high light. An EE6 error code will show only when the flame is extinguished after actually taking place and a burn did occur in the chamber on low. An EE6 is usually one of 2 things: 1. There is an inadequate fuel supply for the stove to maintain a low cycle burn, or the medium, or high. Each cycle consumes more fuel than the prior one. Inadequate fuel supply can be due to a restriction in the fuel line such as icing like cholesterol in a persons arteries, or a plugged sump screen, blocked fuel line or filter, too low a quantity of fuel in the tank, or a fuel line that is not all gravity feed, as in, the fuel line runs down, down, and then up a few feet to get to the Toyo. In that case, the fuel has to rely on head pressure to get to the stove. Head pressure is the atmospheric pressure pushing on the fuel in the tank to force it up against the earth's gravity forces. Solution: You can find any restriction in the line, replace the filters, clean the sump screen, put heat on the fuel line to thaw any icing blocks. 2. An EE6 can be caused by a carbon chain developing from the burner ring, flame sensor or chamber wall to any metal part in the burn chamber. A carbon chain essentially "shorts" out the ground for the unit and the Toyo will shut off on EE6. Solutions:You can bang the side of the Toyo (Old frustrated Alaskan solution) which really just jars the carbon chain loose, clean the flame sensor, clean the fuel nozzle with a straight 3 inch wire, and stick a screw driver in the igniter (red wires) hole and rattle it around real good (another old Alaskan trick). Often, those three things will get your stove running again if it is a carbon chain. The problem will likely occur again, but it will buy you some time until you can get a tune-up done. Most likely, you need a tune-up. Question: When was your last tune-up? Toyo's should be tuned up every 2 years. Tthe book says every one year, but in my experience, every two years is the best bang for the customers buck. The three year mark usually begins showing signs of metal fatigue in other parts of the burn chamber/heat exchanger system so the costs rise a little each year, unless you are a lucky Toyo owner and for some odd reason, your stove can go 3 years between cleanings without any ill effect. If you get your stove running, run it hard on High for about 2 hours to clean and burn all the carbon out. Good Luck! toyotech, North Pole, Alaska

Feb 12, 2008 | Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater:...

2 Answers

Clicks but wont fire


make sure the high voltage lead to the sparkplug isn't touching anything metal on its way to the plug. the clicking may be the high voltage discharging to a metal part, not the plug. those wires age during use.

Dec 01, 2007 | Reddy R70ET Utility Heater

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