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Hydraulics Pump not working

John Deere 310D hydraulic pump appears to be not working. There is plenty of oil in the tank and I don't see any obvious leaks. Someone told me it might be the key on the hydraulic pump but I don't know where the pump is located. Could you please tell me where to look for the pump and/or any other suggestions you may have. Nothing powered by hydraulics is working.

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Look around for a valve or a switch,and or button

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

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The front of the engine is the pump, you can see there is a yoke attached to the harmonic balancer to the pump. you can see if the pump is turning by starting the engine and looking with a flashlight at the yoke. Mine broke a few months ago. it was a fun experience..

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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I have two 50pn 2.4s pumps on my system. One was tripping the internal overload. I shut it off and removed the pump to my work bench. Obvious by spinning the impeller that there was a bad bearing, but I...

Hi Don,

Thank you for your great explanation,

This pump really need some serious maintenance, this was cause because the mechanical seal broke down or was completely wear, check your warranty you have 2 years,

The overload jump because the pump at a motor failure, due to water,
The only way to repair this pump is to take the motor and rotor visually check if there is any burn spot or damage part if not you can try to make everything dry for a few days, replace the defect part and put it back together it might work (30%)

But if you think the electric motor run to long with water in it, It will be more worthed to replace it with a new one,

And i stongly suggest you to check the oil on your other pump, to know how is your mechanical seal,

To check the oil its the only star screw on the side of it, when you remove it try not to spill to much out, if the oil is completely clear your mecanical seal is fine, if its white like milk you need to replace it, it mean water start to infiltrate, and its worthed replacing it,

Hope i could help you let me know if you have more question,

Have a great day,

(mechanical seal is what prevent and block water to reach the electrical motor, its the part that as a big stainless steel spring with to sillicon face on top and bottom,)

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Log splitter how to flush hydraulic system

removing hydraulic oil from the system
  • fully extend the cylinder. and shutdown.
  • remove the one end of the hose that is from the rod end of the clylinder.
  • two ways you can go here. either: detach the one end of the hose that is attached to directional control valve and leads to the cap end of the cylinder and place the end in a pale then retract the cylinder by physically forcing the rod back in and all the oil will drain out of the cap end into the pale and the rod end will fill with air.
  • or u could hold the directional valve in the position to let the oil flow back to tank while physically forcing the rod back in. the oil in the cap end will drain to tank and rod end will fill with air.
  • drain the tank of oil.
  • if you wanted to be extra thurough remove the remaining lines and drain the oil out of them.
  • reattach all lines.
  • replace oil filters/strainers. should be one on the return line going to tank. and one on the suction line before the pump. But there may not be a second filter.
  • fill tank with new oil.
  • extend the cylinder using the pump. allowing the air to bleed off the rod side. may chatter at bit while extending. if excessive chatter remove line end to allow the air in the rod side to bleed to atmosphere and continue till fully extended.
  • reattach line. probably a good idea to run a couple cycles.
  • and repeat the entire process for a thurogh flushing.
  • ! note: dont be dissconnecting lines with pressure in them or while the system is running.
  • ! note: be sure to have enough oil in the tank so the pump is not sucking air. this will eventually cause unrepairable damage to pump if sucking air for too long.
  • i just wrote this off the top of my head and ive only worked on industrial hyraulic systems and never on a log splitter before so just keep that in mind. hope it helps

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First figuire out the gallons per minute by running the oil out for a fixed size jug or can (ie. 5 gallon bucket) into another bucket of the same size. Time how long it takes to transfer all the liquid from one to another. Now he knows the gpm, the rule of thumb is for each two or three gallons for each gallon per minute of the pump. Note: The suction should have a strainer on it with a elbow at a 45 degree angle to prevent clogging. The return line pipe should be cut at a 45 degree angle with the large end towards the reservoir wall. This also prevents clogging and ensure the oil does not get picked up by the suction immediately so it can cool. A baffle plate between the suction and a return is also recommended. A solid plate with a gap at the bottom and lower than the operating fluid level will work effectively.

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Oil type required

Okay...heading to bed...will post to you tomorrow!

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