I am in need of tect. support. I have Carrier 40RM007 indoor air handler with a cooling only R22 expantion valve and a Carrier outdoor heat pump 38UQZ007 that is 407C. My question is can I change the indoor expantion valve to a 407C heat pump expantion valve? If so what is the model number of that valve.
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Re: Match up Carrier equipment
Carrier did sell some systems with R407c as a quick fix to gov regulations for about 2 yrs. R407c is a blend . and is treated like R410a except R407c pressures are more simular to R22. being that the pressures run the same the system should work with out changing any parts that being said if the evaporator has been used for R22 the oil residue wiil give you problems ifit is a new unit you would be ok.
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If you mean that your OUTDOOR AIR CONDITIONER FAN MOTOR is blowing AND no air is coming out of the vents within your house, it clearly indicates to me that 1 of 2 things are wrong.
Either (1) your INDOOR AIR HANDLER is NOT running or (2) the INDOOR AIR HANDLER is running but your PLENUM has come apart.
If your INDOOR AIR HANDLER UNIT is NOT running, it could simply be the circuit breaker is OFF/TRIPPED and simply needs to be turned OFF; then turned ON. If that does not FIX your problem, then it is most likely your 5 micro-farad run capacitor for your indoor fan motor needs to be replaced. It will prevent your indoor fan motor from energizing. Worst case scenario would be your INDOOR FAN MOTOR has windings burnt and needs to be replaced. If your indoor air handling unit is equipped with a CONDENSATE VALVE CUT-OFF SWITCH, check to see if your drain pan is filled, thus energizing the switch. If the CONDENSATE VALVE CUT-OFF SWITCH is ENERGIZED, it will prevent the AIR HANDLER FROM energizing. That is the design and the reason for this valve.
This is true as long as it is not a heat pump. Make sure they replace the piston (metering device to match the outdoor units required piston size. Or if the indoor coil is metered via TXV, it will automatically meter the refrigerant flow. If you are mismatching a system, make sure an acid test is performed on the old refrigerant and take appropriate measures with the new system if the test shows positive acid. They need to definitely install a liquid line drier. Hope this helps.
No. R22 and R410 are not compatible. R410 units operate at much higher pressures than a comparable R22 unit. These refrigerants also use different types of oil which are not compatible. If you need to replace half you might as well replace the whole unit because I was told that as of January 1 of this year you can no longer buy an entire R22 unit unless it is one a dealer still has in stock. They are phasing out R22.
It sounds undercharged (needs more refrigerant). Based on the conditions in your post and assuming the indoor humidity is within 20-70% range, your target superheat should be 10degF. Your superheat (assuming you have an R22 system) is far too high. The pressures are not indicating a restriction; therefore, I have to conclude you have a low charge. A low charge will cause a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant in the liquid line is vaporizing prior to reaching the Cap tube at the Air Handler.
I hope you find this information helpful to you moving forward. :-)
1. The units should match up without a problem.
2. You will need a 40 or 50 amp breaker for the A/H and 5 KW heat strip. You will probably need a 20 or 25 Amp for the condensing unit. I would check the FLA (full load amps) rating on both units, total them and install a breaker with no more than 20% more rating than the total. You can install a small box at the A/H with a breaker for the A/H and one for the condensing unit.
it would sound likely the check valve assembly for the indoor coil isnt checking corectly . some units have orphis assembly and some have thermostatic expantion valves with check valve . eather way youll not be able to make repairs without correct equipment to open the sealed system and look for the problem . You will have to call in the experts im sorry to say. wish i could have helped more. please leave fead back. thanks
I work for a very large reputable goodman dealer. Your equipment appears to be a correct match. The correct orfice should have been taped to the outside of the outdoor unit in a baggie right beside where the pipes connect. Things will run alot smoother though if you scrap the orfice and have a TXV installed (thermal expansion valve) . This is a mechanical device that adjusts the flow of freon into the indoor coil based on the immediate needs of the coil. After that, balancing the refrigerant is a piece of cake as all we need is about 10 degrees of subcooling to make sure we have plenty of liquid to the TXV.