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Board cracked on red crt for toshiba 42h82


i was taking apart a toshiba 42h82 to part out and i put the crt in a box and when i moved the box i hit the wall and cracked the board on the complete red crt assembly...its a small board that is on the end of glass neck of the crt assembly.....

my question is that is this board repalceable or does this mean the entire red crt tube is trash........can i still part out the red crt in any way without the board

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  • dcxguy48080 Jan 09, 2009

    thank you i dont want to repair it i jsut wanted to know if the crt was still ok........i am going to try to sell it without that board

    do you know how it comes the crt assembly is so much involved......whoever comes up with these ideas is just incredible......

    i appreciate your help i love this site

    also other than service manuals where can i find the resistor values and pico values for all proj tvs involving convergence.....i have been doing convergence jobs on the side since im laid off work...its good money and not hard work.......

  • dcxguy48080 Jan 09, 2009

    thank you very much i will try sometime soon.....



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The board is a seperate part and can be replaced. look at the bottom of it and see how many wires were broken in the crack.. it may be able to be repaired as well

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • thielectronick
    thielectronick Jan 09, 2009

    Yeah its easy as long as you don't have to do much realignment.. as far as the resistors and pico fuses, they should be labeled. the fuses are usually like a small black resistor in toshiba, in others like yellow or green resistor. It will say like 5a for 5amps or maybe 5000 on the yellow/green type. Convergence resistors harder to tell if they're burnt up, but you can usually take the simmilar ones around there to find your answer. There is 1 feeback and 1 input resistor for each amp, so 6 inputs and 6 feedbacks. In inputs almost always burn up.. like 1.8ohm up to 3.9ohm. The feedbacks will be like 100 x the value.. so 180ohm or whatever. Sometimes they'll use a pair of resistors instead of just 1, like Mitsubishi will put two 3.9ohms in parallel for the inputs.

    Back to the crt, be very careful not to open the seal and let out the cooling fluid! This is the biggest part to worry about, that and cracking the glass. On a PTV the tube will discharge, but not in smaller crt tvs. Anyways, unscrew the holder on the board and carefully pull it down the neck of the tube.. slightly jiggle, dont rotate! you can do the same to get the yoke off.. then on the top side 4 screws hold it in. You've also got to pull the anode from the splitter and ground wires, etc.. you can usually remove the lens from the top but be careful not to take the wrong screws or the toxic cooling fluid will leak out. Let me know where you need help. Thanks



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