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Re: need to change heating element on my kenmore dryer
They are pretty simple to change out.the heating element should be easy to access and once you get the old one out you simply put the new one in in its place. depending on the machine the heating element should be in the back wich means you have to take the top off the dryer to access it and then you will see what you need to do from there,its only held in but 2 or 3 screws.
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Hi, The element has broke and shorted out against the metal on the dryer. You will need to replace the element. If this is a rear access panel dryer, here is how to get to the ele
UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the element on the right hand side. Plug the dryer back in and test to see if there is 240V going to the element posts. If there is voltage, but no heat, change the element. If it does not, you need to test the thermostats for continuity. If any of the thermostats are open, replace it. I hope this helps you.
Please let me know if this help or if I can assist you further.
Hi, Without having a model # so I can see the exact dry style you have, This is how to get to the most popular style element. UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the element on the right hand side. Plug the dryer back in and test to see if there is 240V going to the element posts. If there is voltage, but no heat, change the element. If it does not, you need to test the thermostats for continuity. If any of the thermostats are open, replace it. I hope this helps you.
Please let me know if this help or if I can assist you further.
For safety reasons all appliance repairs should be done by a qualified technician. however replacing the heating element is not a difficult repair. You can find instructions and illustration opening the links below:
Check the schematic, it should be on the back of the machine. You'll see that the heat circuit probably goes thru the switch on the motor. Use a multimeter to check continuity thru the element, the heat sensors, and the timer. You can do most with the machine unplugged. If you're familiar with checking live circuits, just keep in mind that 220 comes from both ways and meets in the middle, where the load is: so be very careful.
Is this a gas or electirc dryer?
If it's an electrical dryer it's probably the heating element.
Pull the dryer out, remove the back panel and look to see if the heating element is heating up (turns red). If not it's the heating element which is pretty easy to change.
Call an appliance parts store with the make and model number before you pull it out to make sure one's available and always take the old one with you to verify it's the same.
Hope this was helpful.
You may have to get inside the exhaust assembly ...somtimes there are lint buildups that occur and cause long drying times. Also make sure you don't have a DUAL heating element model. I had one and only one of the elements worked when I repaired the second one it worked great. Most likely is the exhaust block however. Hope this helps.
If this is a Kenmore Elite front loader, taking the back off isn't going to tell you much. The heating element is inside the dryer under the drum on the right hand side. More than likely you have an accumulation of lint on the heating element housing and its beginning to smolder. Running the dryer on low will not change the fact that you have lint in close proximity to a glowing element. It will still burn. Here is a link you can look at that gives you some advice on dryers:
You will need to unplug the dryer and remove the lower panel under the door to gain access to the heating circuits. If you have lint backing up into the dryer, you need to investigate why. If its been a while since you've inspected your dryer ventilation ducting, it would probably be a good idea to do so. Everything is in the link I provided for you. I hope this helps.
PS Conitued running of a dryer in this condition can cause the heating circuits to overheat and fail and/or cause a fire.
The usual suspect for a Kenmore HE that runs, but doesn't heat is a thermal cut-out or the thermal fuse. Although they are a bit more resilient, in some cases the heating element itself could be bad. The way to check:
1. UNPLUG THE DRYER, FIRST.
2. Remove the bottom kick plate on the front of the dryer.
3. Remove the blower fan cover directly under the lint screen. There should be a couple of 1/4" screws holding it on.
4. Directly behind the blower fan cover on top of the blower fan housing are two components. One is the operating thermostat, and the white one is a thermal fuse. The fuse is a one-shot fuse that must be replaced if it is bad.
5. To the right is the heating element housing. There are two additional components mounted on the side of the element housing. The component furthest to the back is the thermal fuse. The one one closest to you is the hi-limit thermostat.
6. Check the continuity of thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. They both should read a short. Additionally, check the resistance of the the heating element. The element should read something low (less than 20 ohms).
7. If the thermal fuse reads open, replace it. If the thermal cut-out is bad, replace the hi-limit thermostat with it. They are usually sold as a set. If the heating element is bad, you will need to disconnect all electrical leads and remove one 1/4" screw holding the element housing to the bottom casing. Pull the entire element housing from the dryer. Depending on model, sometimes the element slide out of the housing, sometimes you will need to remove a few screws to open it up.
I hope this helps you.