Have a Maytag 4 burner gas stovetop. Problem is when all burner valves are turned off, the sparks still fly! Need to pull the plug and wait a long time for the problem to stop. Schematic shows all 4 burner valves/switches in parallel, so any one can provide AC hot to the ignitor box. Should I trust schematic and assume one of the 4 valve switches must be stuck on?
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Re: Ignitors do not turn off
It is the place to start.you can use an ohm meter to check if the burner switches are open when the burner knobs are in off position.if the consumer cleans with water if it dosen't just short switch the water can also act as a conductor ,so make sure dry.then inspect wiring for frayed areas that could short curcit.then if all that checks good its your spark moduel. God bless ,tom
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Unplug your unit and turn off the gas supply at the saddle valve near the unit.
Lift up the hood of the oven. If you have sealed burners,
the lid will not lift up. Locate the ignitors near the burners of the
unit. Clean any gunk away from the ignitor using a toothbrush. Test the
Pull the burner dials off the front of the unit if the ignitors won't work.
Remove the screws at the ends of the front cover, where the
gas supply knobs are located, using a screwdriver, and remove the cover
from the oven.
Slide the wires off the burner valve switches and pull them
off the burner valve by sliding the switch forward. The switch will
have wires attached to it. Loosen the screws holding down the wires of
the burner valve. Pull out the wires carefully. Place the wires in a new
switch. Slide the new switch onto the burner valve. Replace the knob,
and turn on the gas supply and power. Ignite the burner.
Follow the switch wires into the oven if the new switch
doesn't work. Locate the module box, which is usually 2 inches by 3
inches. Slide the wires out of the module terminal by pulling on the
wire connectors. Remove the screws from the old module and pull the
module out. Insert the wires into the new module, using the same wire
orientation as before. Reassemble the oven. Turn on the electricity and
gas, and turn on the burner.
First shut off the gas supply & disconnect electrical power to the range.
Remove all the burner control knobs, grates, burner caps & trim rings.
Remove the 2 screws securing the manifold panel, one from each corner. The panel will drop down.
the screws from each manifold pipe mounting bracket. Remove 1/4 inch
hex head bolt from the center of the manifold pipe. Push supply tube
back to release from manifold pipe. Lift the cooktop assembly at the
front to clear the 1/2 inch locator pins attached to the top of the
Place cardboard between each side of cooktop & bodyside to prevent damage.
Move the cooktop to one side, being careful not to put stress on the wiring harness on left side.
Remove the wire from the electrode.
Remove the screw from the electrode mounting bracket to release the electrode.
You can replace the electrode & reassemble following instructions in reverse order.
1) the switch that supplies power to the spark module when the burner is turned on is bad...its located on the shaft of the burner valve thier is one switch for each knob so counting the oven and the burners their is 5 (the oven is different from the surface burners) to check those switches what needs to be done is remove the knobs then the face panel so ya can get to the knobs.
No is where is gets a bit complcated if ya dont follow all procedures....the knob must turned on to check so gas will be flowing and ya must light the gas using a match or raw gas will eneter the kitchen...or if possible temporarly turn off gas supply to the unit.also POWER MUST BE DISCONNECTED and then with power off and the burner lit manually once turned on ya would need to check each switch to have continuity,if any of the switches does not have continuity when measured with a ohm meter that switch will be bad
2) the igniter is cracked so power is coming from spark module yet since its cracked power is jumping out before it gets the where it lights the burners.
13 is the ignitor which even if it glows could be weak, It must pull at least 3.5 amps to open the gas safety valve. The spark module(number 22) could also be weak and not putting out enough juice to light them burners. Seen it.
Pull the burner caps, etc off the stove and completely dry the area ..Be sure to inspect each ignitor contact for cleanliness as well. If the ignitors have soapy buildup or water, around them, they can act like this. You should be able to pull the burner caps and flame diffusers off and clean with a paper towel, and if needed, a light scouring sponge. Be careful not to scratch the surfaces, but scour the top of the ignitors carefully if you need to clean them.
all ignitors spark at the same time no matter which burner is turned on. If you are having trouble with one burner not lighting try cleaning around the ignitor with a small screw driver so the spark has a good path to ground.
Hi, when any of the knobs is turned to the light position, all burners will spark. That being said, if one or more of the knobs is not switching the spark module, the problem is the switch mounted on the shaft of that burner valve. You need to replace the defective switch or you could turn on one of the good burners (to make the clicking occur) and then light the burner you really want.
This will sound crazy but I had to work through it on my own stove a few years ago. The ignitor (glow tube) was getting hot but the oven would not owrk. When investigating the problem I found that the gas valve will only open when the ignitor pulls a specific amperage or draw of current. As the ignitor ages it pu;;s a reduced draw of current. This causes you to be fooled by the glow nut no gas. Replace your ignitor and your oven will begin to work again!
You can get ignitors easily online by doing a search for "appliance parts" and then entering the model number of your stove. Look for ignitor and you will be good to go. Also check out a few different sites as the prices of the parts can vary quite a bit.
How old oof a unit is it? The burners switches when on will operate ignitors for all burners no matter which switch is "turned on". Usually when units get older these switches on the most "often used" burners will stick and stay "connected" then all ignitors will continue to spark this is also true if switches accidentally get wet with spillage or water till they dry out. No danger though because jsut because ignitor is sparking doesnt mean gas is being released, gas is only released when valves are turned on