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Re: mag drill will not hold strong to surface
Hi first try the magnet on a clean flat piece of m/s sheet/plate 2 inches bigger than the magnetic base ,it should be very hard to remove make shure the magnetic base is clean and the beam you are drilling is paint and rust free if possible clean up the beam with a sanding disc try it make shure the cutter is sharp and use coolant a dull /blunt tool will need more force a good tool almost cuts with no effort on the handle if you are drilling upside down or on the side of the beam NOmagi drill will do this without extra support silk090
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Woodstock D3455 Drill Chuck, 5/8-Inch by JT33 - Amazon.ca
This item: Woodstock D3455 Drill Chuck, 5/8-Inch by JT33 CDN$ 47.71. In Stock. Ships from and sold by Amazon.ca. FREE Shipping. ... (Canadian Tire) Drill Press.
5/8 Drill Chuck ' eBay
Suitable for drill presses or lathes spindle accepts R8 shank. Chuck key and R8-JT33 arbor are also included in the package. Special quenching treated ...
Soap might work. Some use candle wax, bees wax, WD 40. I've prayed silicone on the drill bit. Using moderate pressure and low speed definitely helps, and it is essential to clear out the hole of chips frequently. So drilling in increments works. You drill a little, lift the bit up out of the hole to clear the chips. Also the type of bit used is a factor in drilling efficiency: wood boring bits are a good choice. Forstner bits are excellent, and spade bits are just OK. Hope this helps....
The chuck on almost all drill presses is held on by friction only by use of the tapered fit you mention. Make sure both the spildle tip and the chuck hole surfaces are completely clean and dry. Set your table so when you move the spindle down it will contact the table. With the drill OFF, put the chuck on the spindle and press it down on with the table as hard as you can without bending any handles or gears. This should be sufficient to hold it in place.
The chuck on 99% of the drill presses is just a press fit. The end of the spindle where the chuck goes on is slightly tapered to hold it on. Make sure the end of the spindle and inside surface of the chuck are very clean. With the motor off, raise the table high enough so you can still get the chuck on the spindle then turn the handle to lower the chuck against the table and press it firmly against the table to wedge the spindle in the chuck. There shouldn't be any need for anything more than this.
go to"milwaukeetool.com and type in your model number, you will also need the serial number to locate the information you requested. You might need to separate the tools and use the base and motor separately but it is there.
The spindle is pressed into the bearing in the nose of the gear case. You usually need a hydraulic press to get them out. If the spindle gear, woodruff key and spacer come out easily (it may need a little prying pressure) you may be able to tap the spindle out with a dead blow/rubber hammer or with a piece of wood on the end of the spindle. If you hit the spindle directly with a metal hammer you can mushroom the end and it won't fit in the needle bearing in the service diaphram.
Some drill-to-chuck fittings are known as morris tapers, and are incredibly strong. Look in the end of your motor shaft for a screw hole. The chuck probably has a screw or bolt holding it in place once the tapers align.
I have one of these.
Here you will see how the drill is mounted in the device. Position (b) around the handle and tighten it up untill drill seats firmly in place. Take a speed square, or normal square and eyeball or measure the drill to see if its straight. Use the alignment adjustment (A) to fine tune the drill to get the drill bit straight and square. Tighten up all the nuts holding drill in device and recheck the drill bit for straightness.. Put your work under the drill, press the trigger and lock into place to get the drill to constantly run without finger on trigger, pull down the press lever to drill your hole... Hope this helps!
If I'm not mistaken, these drills use an electromagnet. Start by measuring the current when the magnet is switched on, but not the drill. If you don't have a current meter, just plug the drill plus an incandescent light into a long lightweight extension cord. You should see the light dim a little when you switch on the magnet. If the light doesn't dim, you just aren't getting power to the electromagnet, and it's probably a broken wire or a bad switch. If the tool has it's own fuse, I would think it would be for the drill only, not the electromagnet.