Question about Dewalt DW744S 10" Portable Table Saw with Stand

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Feeding speed is erratic

My DW735 is 3 month old.

Recently happened this problem.

It looks the feeding rollers turning smoothly, but actual wood piece moving speed is not constant or does not feed at all even after cleaning the rolleres with alcohol.

Is there any adjusting mechanism inside?
Or I could sand the rollers surface with sandpaper?

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I had a solid bearing wear out on the feed roller and it won't push the board through. I ordered the part and replaced it (it was worn egg shaped) and it works great now. On another subject, I'm getting a lot of chips inside the main housing and I don't know where it;s coming from. I use a dust collector a ready.

Posted on Jul 06, 2012

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Turtle wax.... mine seems to slow down when I use it a alot. But then I wax the feed table and bammo! It works like a dream again! Prior to waxing it takes all I can muster to push a board through.

Posted on Oct 01, 2011

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Researching Your Model. The Rollers are Chain Driven, but this Planer is a V-Belt Drive. Any slippage of Your Belt? Are the Chains Loose?? (there's a Drive Chain on one Side, and a Driven Chain on the Other Ends of the Feed Rollers) Never Hurts to apply a "Light" Coat of Chain Lube to these Parts(Gears & Chains)
DO NOT SAND THE ROLLERS!! Cleaning them with Denatured Alcohol is OK ( I prefer Brake Parts Spray Cleaner Myself)...the Planer Knife Head & the Front & Rear Rollers all work together as a Unit.
What Thickness are You Trying to Remove?? Usually I don't like removing More than 1/32" per pass...
Have you contacted DeWalt Service?

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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Two things I can think of. One, you don't have enough voltage to the motor, and two, you're overloading the motor by feeding material too fast. If you run too long an extension cord to the saw, it can drop the voltage significantly (you don't mention if this is in a shop or on the job) and cause the motor to kick out. Use a larger diameter wire 10 or 12 gauge to help this. If it kicks out when you're cutting, simply slow down the rate at which you feed your wood and allow the motor to keep up.

If this occurs simply when you turn the saw on, you may have a defective motor.

Aug 26, 2014 | Saws

1 Answer

Planer will not get up to speed

I suspect that the works are clogged up with wood chips or some long fibers like hair or string. You will have to do enough disassembly so that you can pull out the chips that are wrapped around the shafts, without removing the blades or any of the shafts themselves. The motor, the cutter, and the feed rollers could all be clogged up - as well as the speed reducing mechanism that makes the feed rollers turn slowly. Using compressed air will not do the trick. Needle-nosed pliers and a nut-pick will probably do it. Hair can be hard to see - so be thorough in cleaning. Good luck.

Dec 20, 2012 | Craftsman 12 amp 12-1/2" Bench Planer...

1 Answer

Jointer doesn't run smoothly

My bet is that the motor is designed for 220/240 (single or three phase), but you're running in on 110 single phase. If the belt were slipping it would sound like the belt on a car (you know when someone starts their car and belt is loose and goes "Sccrreeeeeee" until the rev the engine and make the belt catch up to the pully).

The power in wood working motors is such that it should be very difficult to slow down the motor if you're feeding at a slow rate. But, if the motor needs 220 and you're powering with 110, then the motor will have no power (the magnets in the motor are matched with the voltage - and if you have the wrong voltage you won't get any power and the speed will be very slow).

Typically the "home" or "residential" tools only run on 110, but if you have a larger unit they can be wired for 220 or 110. If you bought the planer used, they may have been running with 220 and now you're powering with 110 (or vice versa). I'd do a quick google search for your unit to see what it's capable of. Or, just take the model number of the motor (not the planer) and search for that.

Typically, motors can be run at 110 or 220 for larger wood working tools. Inside the metal housing where the wire feeds into are a number of wires to connect to. These wires have numbers on them (either a tag or printed on the wire insulation) and you attach them a certain way for 110 and a different way for 220. Sometimes you can even change the direction of the motor - SO BE CAREFULL IF YOU REWIRE IT! don't power it up all the way on the first try. Just start it and then stop it while the motor is still coming up to speed. While the planer is still spinning (even though the motor is off) feed your board in slowly and you'll be able to tell which way the motor is spinning. If you get the wrong direction on your motor you can shoot boards across the shop (or out into the street if you're in the garage - like I did).

Jun 23, 2012 | Delta JT160 Shopmaster 10 Amp 6 Inch...

1 Answer

My saw keeps cutting out when cutting heavy wood, does that mean my saw is wore out, or what can i do

When it cuts out while cutting heavy wood, there are several things you can do.

First, check to be sure you are not feeding the wood in too fast.
Next, be sure the saw blade is clean of pitch.
And, be sure the blade and fence are aligned.
Are the teeth of the saw showing completely over the wood? Just the tooth should stick up over your board.
Also, if this is a continuous problem despite cleaning and all the above, installing heavier belts sometimes helps.

"woodworker by night"
Handy Andie

Mar 20, 2011 | Craftsman 10" Table Saw

1 Answer

Makita LS1013 Sliding Compound Mitre saw will not lock at chosen positions/angles on the turnplate other than the standard stop points. Turning the handle will not lock the turnplate anymore it used to it...

my saw had this exact same problem, here's how i fixed mine.

okay so here's a schematic of the saw

whether you have the exact same issue as my saw, in order to further investigate you need to get to the mechanism that locks the saw. To do this you need to take the turn base (140) off the foot base (156) . its really not too hard, just a little awkward setting the saw in different positions to remove the various parts.

Specifically on mine I had issues with the threaded rod (118) not screwing into the stopper holder (135). You'll see this part when you flip the saw upside down.

So to remove the turn base(140) from the foot base (156)....

Remove the kerf board (108) and under you will see a big bolt, go ahead and remove this. Then there are 4 more bolts which take off the guide rule (117), this what your piece of wood is put against when making the cut. Once these 5 bolts are out, the turn base can now be separated from the feet. Now you'll have a better view of the mechanics and see what is or isn't happening when you screw the handle to lock the miter position.

Part 136 (turn stopper) is what actually wedges to a pocket in the foot base which makes the saw lock. when you screw in the handle it actuates this part. make sure that is happening. I had to take out the threaded rod (118) and tighten it on a vice and work the stopper holder (135) deeper onto the threaded rod. use WD 40 to help it a long. You'll need to take off some other various parts to to get the rod out. this will be obvious once you have everything turned over.

Now that everything is apart you can blast it with some WD40 or what you think is best here. I used lithium grease. You'll see its especially important to lube up the pivot post that the 2 bases center on, (where the big bolt under the kerf board goes). also the slide plates (153) may be rusty, they'll fall out when you separate the 2 base plates. clean those up and spray them and anything else which will help with smooth movement.

the only important item to check once everything is put back together is the guide rule. this can be adjusted slightly in or out of square. Get a nice framing square and make sure your locked in at 90 (or actually 0 degrees on the saw) Sliding the saw the full distance of the cut on the square is ideal and maybe this was a good time to recalibrate that movement anyway.

hope this works.

May 14, 2010 | Makita 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound...

1 Answer

Saw has no power.

Does the motor continue to run, but the arm stops? It sounds like the set screw on the motor shaft is loose. See the exploded view at this link. It's called out as # 97

Jan 13, 2010 | Dewalt DW788 Heavy Duty 20" Variable Speed...

1 Answer

I'm feeding 8/4 alder through the powermatic strait line saw

Sounds like the power feeder is not holding it secure at the end of the pass. Is the outfeed table running level to the saw table?
Just a wild guess, I'm afraid. I haven't used one myself.
The only time I've seen blades wobble like that was when they were light plates, undersized for heavy duty ripping operations. It's truly frightening to watch them overheat and turn to butter like that. I'd recommend getting a heavier plated saw blade if there's any question about yours.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Aug 26, 2009 | Saws

2 Answers

Blade Alignment?

ok yep your blade is out of alignment with the fence. It is closer to the fence at the rear than the front. You need to make the modification or adjustment to your fence, if it allows that, and then worry about the miter slots later (which should be adjusted miter slot to blade, not miter slot to fence). You might be able to adjust the miter slot to blade by moving the actual table and then securing witht he table mount bolts. Check your manual for how to align the fence.

You do want to fix that though as it can be potentially dangerous and result in kickback of the workpiece which is a rather SCARY thing, and very dangerous.

Jun 01, 2009 | Dewalt DW744S 10" Portable Table Saw with...

1 Answer

Delta table saw

The reset button is normally a thermal overload, using a bio-metallic strip to break the circuit. If it is old or has popped a few times it might have 'weakened' abit. Try replacing the thermal/reset button. If it still happens then something might be overheating and causing the problem.

Oct 12, 2008 | Saws

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