Usually very simple. You need to get the diagram for our model. Most dryer belts go around the drum, around the tensioner pulley and around the motor pulley. You need to take off the front, top and rear panel depending on model. I can change mine in about 15 minutes complete job.
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Depends on the model. Usually on the back lower left side under tub or right behind the tub in the top center. The frist location you remove the front panel to get to element and the second location the lid has to be raised up
Pull the front panel off, remove the top screws and tilt top back. Rout the new belt around drum at the old wear spot with the grooved side against the drum. Next remove the back access door and rout the belt around the idler pulley and motor pulley. There is only one way to do this and get proper tension on the belt. Also, when you order the belt, ask if it has a belt routing diagram on the belt package.
It could be a circuit breaker, fuse, or electrical problem. Just because the motor runs doesnt mean it will heat.
You should check for power first.
Then unplug the dryer remove the lower front panel, two screws.
Mark and label any wire you remove so you know where they go!
in the back on the left is the heating element, check for burnt wires, take the element out and check for a broken wire on the back side also check all the thermostats, and electrical components to make sure they are good.
remove the lowe acesss panel( 2 5/16 screws) wiht the panel removed and a flashlight in hand, turn on the dryer and watch it tumble. you should be able to pinpoint where its coming from. its either the rear roller supports, the front drum glide assy's, or the tension pulley in ehich the belt its wrapped arund(develops a rut in which the belt has cut into it causing horrible screeeching noise, heck to replace all three of the components is problavle ony 50 bucks or so