Question about Refrigerators
I am looking for the gasket seal for both the freezer & fridge both. The model number is SKF375. It's an older model. The fridge seal is 38 x 23 size gasket and the freezer seal is 32X23. Any idea where I can purchase them? Will I be able to install it myself?
had same exact problem - followed advice for fixing same problem in similar refrig. took of the back panel off the freezer section - 8 hex head screws - and found the cooling fins all frosted over.
Posted on May 31, 2008
My Fisher & Paykel Model E402B Stainless Steel Fridge/Freezer has a problem. Bottom Freezer is OK but Refrigerator will not work properly, somtimes it will freeze everything now it just warm inside i have checked the the fan and the rubber holding it up has broken also the ice is frozen in the vents can you help i got someone in to fix it but he said it will cost around $600 as there might be more wrong with it, what do you suggest thanks Clare
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
I have the same problem with my frig in the basement. I get condensation and resulting mold on the top outer surface and related areas. This is from the surface being cold, with resulting outside moist air condensing on the cold surface. Best solution - spray/wipe the surface with a bleach and water solution, let it soak a few minutes, then wipe off with a rag. Add a drop of dishwasher soap to a mixture of roughly 4 parts water to one part bleach. Repeat if necessary. Do this as often as the problem seems to creep up again. Good luck!
Handyman in NJ
Posted on Oct 11, 2008
The freezer will stay cold because a small
amount of cold air will be forced through the frost but that will not
be enough to make it up to the refrigerator portion. You can defrost
the unit by removing the metal panel and allowing the frost to melt.
Careful use of a hairdryer can speed up this process. This will likely
be a temporary fix. The root cause of excessive frost can be caused by
a bad door seal or a defective defrost circuit.
First check that the door seal is good by closing the door on a dollar bill at several points around the door, both on the freezer and refidgerator door. If you can pull the bill out with no resistance, the door is not making a good seal. Inspect the seal and make sure there isn't anything stopping the door from closing such as food, or a shelf not pushed in all the way.
If the door seal is good, the defrost system is likely defective. The defrost system has three main parts, the defrost heater, thermostat, and timer. None of these parts are particularly expensive, or difficult to replace you feel comfortable with repairing it yourself. If you can troubleshoot this by manually starting the defrost cycle. Let me know if you would like this procedure.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.
If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,
After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.
The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.
Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.
When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.
Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
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