Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
I need instructions on how to r&r this part. I have the part and wish to make this repair myself.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the panel below the door has 3 screws under the bottom lip of the panel. remove the screws to get the panel off youll see the pump right in front of you. you can unscrew the cap on the pump and remove it to clean out the punp. thats where 99% of clogges are on that washer
Posted on Nov 26, 2007
I HAD TO REPLACE THE SPIN BEARING ON MY MAYTAG ATLANTIS WASHER MAV9750,
it was making a loud noise during sin cycle, like a bad bearing would
make, jet engine kind of noise, i did replace the bearing and made a web
site with pictures on how to do it, since it almost takes all the parts
out, it will show you how to get to most of the parts in the machine, and
i also included links for downloading the repair manual, and parts at
appliance parts pros web site
Posted on Apr 11, 2008
The lowes salesperson is wrong ,,, it wont destroy anything it will just be bad noise till it falls into the lower tub and then into the pump filter where you can unscrew the cap on the pump and take it out ,,, to get it out b4 then you have to pull the top, outer panel then get to the tub and on that style you have to take the complete tub out and take it apart to remove it and then replace the spit seal and reinstall ,,, it would cost anywhere from 300-400.00 to remove the marble so best best is to let it go thru its course till it drops out / i have done the repairs on those machines so i know what it would take to do it ,,,,, sorry but thats the best and cheapest / larryyb
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
I have a Kenmore which is the same as the Whirlpool. I dismantled the unit, it was only 3 years as Sears stated its was not under warranty. Upon review the stainless steel tub tripod assembly which is connected to the flywheel was cracked in three places which caused the knocking and vibration. Even though the warranty states lifetime on the Stainless steel drum, there is a ploy on words as the failure was not the stainless steel, so these machines are good for the scrap heap as the cost to replace the parts is more expensive than a new washer.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.
"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.
To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:
Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms
Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.
Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
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Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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