Question about Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air Conditioner

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(HVAC) Furnace Not Igniting Quickly

Carrier // Day & Night // Model 397HAW036060 (1982)
Furnace doesn't seem to be Igniting Correctly.
Blower comes on and runs for about 10 minutes, Furnace starts ignition process, it ignites-then ''Blows-Out'', repeats this same process 6-9 times before Ignition is Constant, meanwhile Blower is Blowing Cold Air. Isn't this condition wasting Gas? How can I Fix?
3 Years ago the Electronic Control Board was Replaced, 2 Years ago the Control Valve & Blower Motor were Replaced. Checked the Igniter and it ''appears'' to be working Correctly During Cycles.

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  • Rick Wymer
    Rick Wymer Jan 08, 2009

    No Back Draft. So, which Part would need replaced, and How to do that?

  • Rick Wymer
    Rick Wymer Jan 08, 2009

    I keep coming up with "other" responses, that the Burner is supposed to Start BEFORE the Blower comes on, is that Correct? and How to Fix that?
    At present the Blower comes on 1st (Hi-Speed), and runs 10-12 minutes BEFORE the Burner starts Cycling, Guess I'm getting confused...



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Make sure a back draft in the flue is not happening. Wind can blow it out until the flue heats up. The flame sensor may not be close enough to the burner flame. It may be weak and need to be replaced or if its an optical one it may be dirty and not see the flame very well. Its not wasting much gas but it puts extra wear and tear on the gas controls, is noisy, and, as you said, blows cold drafty air. A gas control system that has issues of any kind is not real safe. It needs to get fixed.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • Ty Parcher
    Ty Parcher Jan 08, 2009

    I used your model number as a Google search key. I got a hit on your service manual pdf. It describes how to removed and clean the burners and pilot assembly. The flame sensor is described as a switch but its not more specific than that. Clean the pilot assembly and the burner orifices paying particular attention to the orifice hold that are close to the pilot as this area may accumulate extra deposits. If that does not fix the problem then replace the pilot assembly which includes the sensor. The Service Manual is very specific about how to remove the burner and pilot including pictures but if you need more help than that write back.

  • Ty Parcher
    Ty Parcher Jan 09, 2009

    You have two "blowers" in the unit. One is to move are over the heat exchanger (room air, big one) and the other is to move air through the burner chamber, then through the exchanger to extract heat, then to the exhaust flue (the draft blower, small one). The furnace must establish good draft before ignition or bad things will happen. There is a draft sensor (switch attached to a plate in the draft system that senses good air flow) to prevent this. If the draft fails or is weak after the burner is on then the draft sensor opens and cuts off the natural gas (or propane). The burned flue gases coming off the burner do not get mixed with the air in the rooms of the house. A heat exchanger keeps the hot burner gases and the room air separated from each other. If there is a hole in the heat exchanger you can get carbon monoxide poisoning in the room therefore the heat exchanger has to be clean and sealed tight. You may have a problem there if the draft fan or flue is full of dirt or otherwise obstructed and does not give the flue system good steady air flow. That can shut off your lit burner early.

    If the room air blower starts up on a cold furnace the rooms will get a cold air draft because the heat exchanger in the furnace is still cold. Therefore the furnace is designed to heat the exchanger first with the burner gases and them start the room air blower up on a delay or at a set exchanger temperature (your case I think). That way hot air comes out in the room air ducts almost immediately. Your draft blower starts before ignition. The room air blower starts later.

    There was a bad typo in my last posting. I typed "orifice hold." That should read "orifice holes"



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