Only 2 of the 3 elements heat up

SOURCE: Amana Convection oven not controlling temp

I have just checked the baking guide in the manual and have found that it may not be us after all. (Maybe this is why they telll us to read the whole manual. Well, I never have) According to the cooking time for Baking, the range is very extensive. For example, an angel cake at 350 could take from 28-50 minutes, buscuits at 375-400 could take 8-16 minutes, layer cakes at 350-375 could take 25-40 minutes, pound cakes at 325-350 could take 45-70 minutes and fresh pies at 400-450 could take 35-60 minutes. Basically, the baking directions on the box means absolutely nothing to use Amana oven owners. We have no choice but to cook our food or baked goods until they are cooked, whenever that may be. :) Linda

SOURCE: Bake element doesn't turn off

The relay controlling the element has likely failed and welded it self closed. This parts is normally built into the electronic control board, which costs somewhere around $200 to $300 to replace.

Try http://www.searspartsdirect.com/ for the part. If are not familiar with repairing appliances, you might want to refer this to a professional.

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

SOURCE: Maytag electric range, cre9530. bottom bake element

This is probably your bake element that is out and this is a very simple repair to make.

Just contact us at:

http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service and we will get the correct element out to you asap as well as part removal/installation instructions.
We hope to get you cooking aain real soon. Ella

SOURCE: bake and broil top oven not functioning with system

Hello,

While the control board could be faulty, it is certainly not what I`d suspect initially. Do these symptom`s follow a self clean cycle of the upper oven ? Is your oven actually a SC302 double wall oven as the post header implies ?

I ask because the symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ).

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down.

Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s.

Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck.

macmarkus :)