Check the sides of the drawer on the dishwasher and make sure that the sliders that the drawer rides on are not locked in place you will notice on the front of the slider near the door panel there are plastic clip like press in tabs that hold the drawer securely in the tracks try to put your hand up under the door and move the track if the track moves in the slider you will need to hold the door secuely with one hand while sliding the track to the most open position on the slider track. if the sliders are not locked in you will be able to pull the slider forward and the slider should clip into place.Repeat this for both sides and the door should operate like new once again.
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Open the top draw. On each side of the draw at the bottom / front, is a clip that releases the rails that the draw slides in and out on. Press the clips in to release and slide it back (into the machine as if you were closing the draw). Do this one at a time and then lift the draw slightly and rotate the draw anti-clockwise direction (due to the plumbing) and lay the draw on its left hand side. The draw is out!
The power filter board at the base of the dishwasher (under the bottom drawer) has a fault which shuts power to top drawer. The drawer is tight because lid seal actualtor motors are not operting due to lack of power, Try not to push too hard as the lid seal will be damaged.
Needs a technician to fix it unless you are good at handling dishwasher repairs. This is a very difficult one to handle for the non professional. The power board is about $100 to buy,
ok where to start, first thing the bottom draw is hard to close because they use 2 little motors on either side to pull a lid with a seal on it down on top of each draw when u start it to keep the water in, if its hard to close the motors are damaged and arnt lifting the lid back up when the cycle finishes making it hard to open and shut, now the F1 fault means the filter circuit board in the base of the machine has been activated basically a flood sensor (and controls minor components ie lid actuators), the unit should beep and flash and go spaztic and you should hear the drain pump come on continuously til u turn it off at the wall thats its way of trying to stop a leak by removing any water it can but will not actually remove the water from the base where the switch is, you will probably find it will work now as the water will have dried and stopped triggering the switch but wont stay like that for long, that machine has major issues its leaking bad from somewhere and id say it leaked onto the lid motors and fried em, the parts you will most probably have to replace is the filter board in the base, both bottom draw lid actuators (small motors), probably the bottom draw lid if you damaged the seal pulling the draw in and out and whatever is leaking and if any other componets where damaged by water, so if its outta warranty id go buy a new 1 with 5 year extended warranty
Flood switch is at the very bottom underneath the bottom draw in the base floor.Unplug cord.Open bottom draw all the way & squeeze a towel or sponge under the draw & soak up the water..The washer should work now..Why did it flood in first place?
Check that dishes are not stacked higher than top edge of the draw otherwise it can't seal.this can happen when children are asked to stack the dishwasher.Another cause is some models the seal is an inflatable tube that seals the top edge of the draws,it gets cut or sliced buy a plate that was stacked to high when you closed the draw.there should be no clunk of dished hitting when the draw is closed.
As long as there is no plates or anything stopping it from closeing i will then say that there are 2 side rails that the draw glides in & out on,get down on the floor & check up underneath the draw for smooth gliding operation.also is it possible that a fork or peice of cutlery has gotten over the top & fallen down jambing the draw from closing.
the lids on dishdrawers are pulled down and sealed by lid activaters. there r two types, the screw type and the magnetic solonoid type. the reason your draw gets stuck is your lid activator is not releasing. there are 2 reasons for this 1st- 1 or both activators are faulty. 2nd the lid activator control board is faulty, which is located under the bottom drawer.pull the draw out and see if u can see if the lid is down on 1 side or both sides.please reply 4 more help.
check the draw on the sides at the front as the draw sits on runners and there are tabs on the runners at the front which hold the draw on.
hold the plastic tabs both sides and slide the draw past the slots on the bottom sides of the draw.
The controllers get very brittle & can break away from their housing, the reason it's rapidly beaping is because it thinks the door is open. PLEASE TURN IT OFF FIRST AT THE POWER POINT. Take the front draw panel off by pulling the plugs situated on the front behind the draws, the controller is at the top right hand side if it is loose then thats the problem, double sided tape will work but lots of it or try a wedge type arrangement. I know this is an old post but people refer to these for solutions much later.
thats tub home sensor switch, mounts to rear right of cabinet and senses drawer closing along with little black box with red switch should also have a little metal actuator( this is what usually breaks off switch), each drawer uses their own. unistall from cabinet and theres an access panel strictly for replacing theses switches