When turning the "change screw" down the instructions are not very clear. Do you turn the "change screw" in until the brass nut the screw passes through bottoms out on the valve body or do you turn the screw down through the brass nut. Brass nut seems to be glued to screw.
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Some basic helpful instructions below. Really not much to it. Convert the regulator and replace the orifice. Basic instructions should come with the kit if purchased for that specific brand and model.
In my opinion, always best to buy the conversion kit at a local appliance parts store to be sure of getting all the required parts with specific instructions for the brand and model.
Basic Step By Step Instructions: First access the burner compartment. Usually a small access door in the lower right hand or left hand corner on some brands or models. Remove access panel.
On some brands and/or models the entire front panel must be removed. Look for screws in the door frame and/or at the base of the front panel. May have screws in both locations on some machines.
Some brands and/or models the top lid must first be lifted up wards. On many of these machines there will be no screws in the door frame. Usually only two screws are the base of the machine. Some no screws anywhere external. In this case, if there are two screws at the base remove them.
Then insert a thin blade or old credit card between the top lid and front panel about two or three inches in wards from each corner. Push in wards to release the clips while lifting up wards on the top lid. Each clip can be released separately or both at once.
Once the front panel is removed or access door is opened, look to the right of the gas control valve. There will be a tiny gas shut off valve on the gas supply pipe. Turn that tiny lever so it is across the pipe. Doing so turns off the gas to the control valve.
Than remove the wire quick disconnects from the solenoids on top of the gas valve. Than loosen and remove the hex nut on the control valve to separate the gas supply pipe from the control.
FYI: That hex nut is reverse threaded. Which means the hex nut turns opposite (counter clock wise) to loosen it and clockwise to tighten it. Use a backup wrench to hold the pipe while turning that nut counter clock wise.
Once the pipe is removed, there will be two or more sheet metal screws holding down the plate the control is mounted onto. Remove those screws.
Than carefully remove the burner out enough to get to the wires attached to the flame sensor, which is attached to the burners shroud cover. Remove that wire quick disconnect also.
Than remove the entire burner as an assembly. Remove the brass or bronze orifice in the burners nozzle. Replace the orifice with an LP or NAT orifice to match the BTU rating of the burner.
BTU rating is on the manufacturers plate with the model and serial numbers, usually located in the door frame. Most dryers are either 18,000 or 22,000 Btu's. Install an LP or NAT orifice to match the rating.
Than convert the built into the gas valve regulator. By removing the cap on top of the tower and turning it over and reinstalling it. Cap should be marked "N" or "NAT" for natural gas and "L" or "LP" for propane.
Turning the towers cap over converts the regulator. Side of the cap facing you indicates the fuel type it is set for. Not all regulators are convertible in this manner. Check with any local appliance parts store.
Some gas control valves do not have regulators that are convertible while some have a set screw to turn to another position or a lever to turn to another position. Several variables are possible.
Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and conversion parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.
Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks when reconnecting any of a gas part.
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DRYER SERVICE TIP: It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.
I remember having a stove with an adjustable orifice in the oven. It looked like a double nut arrangement. If that is what you find, tightening them to each other shrinks the size. Should turn fairly easy, do not force. You may also find a pilot adjustment behind the oven control knob. Hope this helps.
Before you get too involved, check to see if the natural gas orifices are still with the range. Usually, when the conversion is done, the person who converts the range puts the original natural gas orifices into the holder which contained the LP ones, then replaces it. Look for an inch and a half long metal strip holding the four brass orifices held on by one screw very near the range gas regulator. (the regulator is the part the gas line connects to on the range) Also, look for the conversion instructions in the original installation and set up instructions, or attached to a sheet of paper on the back of the range. You will need to change the plunger in the regulator (Unscrew the cap, flip the plunger around, and replace) and turn the orifice spud on the bake and broiler burners three full turns counter-clockwise also. (using a 1/2 inch open end wrench, counting twelve 1/4 turns) Orifices will require a 7mm or 9/32 inch nut driver or socket to change. The orifices are different for the simmer, regular, and high output burners. (have a "I", "II" and "III" marked on them to help identify them, respectively.) The left two burners are both "regular output" burners, and use the same orifices.
You posted under a combo washer / dryer WD-4343RHD.
For a gas dryer, conversion is to replace Nat gas orifice with LP one (the LP orifice has a air hole going cross ways through it) plus screwing the regulator blocker (brass slot head screw on top of the gas valve) all the way down (if you missed that step, I would expect your symptoms). Also, make sure you have a good vent with strong air flow at the outdoor outlet. If poor vent, short cycling may occur.