Question about LG DLG5988 Stainless Steel Gas Dryer

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DLG5966W LP Conversion

When turning the "change screw" down the instructions are not very clear. Do you turn the "change screw" in until the brass nut the screw passes through bottoms out on the valve body or do you turn the screw down through the brass nut. Brass nut seems to be glued to screw.

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  • godshouse Jan 09, 2009

    Thank you for helping.

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Turn the change screw down until the brass nut bottoms out on the valve body. It is glued in place exactly where the change screw needs to stop when converting to LP. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How can I fix my caburator its not in good idle


Possibly needs tuning and there is instruction on utube for different models.

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Cannot get the decora 4 way light switch to work - 2 of the 3 switches work but cannot get the 3rd to work. Replacing regular toggle switches which all worked but wiring different for decora switches.


Decora 3-way and 4-way switches do not wire differently than toggle-type switches.
Instructions below are tedious but will accurately guide you to solution.

Let's break down the problem starting with 3-ways.

1) Start with 3-way switches:
Old 3-way switch has 2 brass screws and 1 dark screw
New decora has same color screws.
Wire that went to dark screw on old device must attach to dark screw on decora device.
Other two wires can attach to either brass screw.
Wires that attach to brass screws are travelers ... these wires travel to the 4-way switch.
So there are 2 traveler wires at each 3-way switch.

2) Let's test if 3-way switches are wired correctly by taking 4-way switch out of equation.
We will resolve problem with 4-way switch after 3-ways are correct.

There are 4 wires at the 4-way switch.
These are the 2 traveler wires that arrive from each 3-way switch.

At the 4-way switch, 2 wires arrive in one cable, and 2 wires arrive from another cable.
To say it differently, there are 2 wires from cable1 and 2 wires from cable2.
Connect 1 wire from cable1 to 1 wire from cable2 with a wire nut
Now connect the 2nd wire from cable1 to 2nd wire from cable2 with another wire nut.
So now the traveler wires are connected, and the 4 way switch is out of equation.
Turn on power, and click 3-way switches to see if both switches turn lights on-off in all positions.

Do your 3-way switches work correctly?

3) If 3-ways are not correct, then you have wrong wire connected to dark screw.
First thing to check is if you can identify traveler wire colors by looking at wires at 4-way switch.
Remember, traveler wires at 4-way switch go back to 3-way switch and connect to brass screws on 3-way switch.

4) If you cannot tell traveler wires by looking at 4-way switch, then you can try different combinations until both 3-way switches work.
Or you can test: disconnect wires from one of the 3-way switches. Separate 3 wires for testing. Move other 3-way switch to down position. Turn on power. Test each wire to bare ground wire. Mark wire that lights up. Now move other 3-way to up position. Test each wire to bare ground wire. If same wire lights up each test, then that wire goes to dark screw. If different wire lights up, then mark that wire. The two marked wires are travelers, and they connect to brass screws. Other wire connects to dark screw. Repeat identical test for other 3-way switch.

At this point your 3-way switches will work, if light bubs are not burned out.

5) Last step, the 4 way switch.
Remember from step above, that 2 wires arrive in cable1: These 2 wires connect on one side of 4-way switch. The other 2 wires that arrive in cable2 connect of other side of 4-way switch.

Add a comment if you need more help.

Dec 23, 2010 | Leviton Decora Light Dimmer Switch

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I have the 691pass&seymour toggle switch/outlet, the way the electric was wired over 40+years ago does not look right? but I would like to install this new switch. on the old switch on the right side...


Thank you for the clear description of your P&S device.
You need to test your wires.
We are looking for the Hot, Neutral and Load wires.

Your old switch has two wires.
One of these wires is the Hot (I suspect 100% that the wire that comes from the other wires that are twisted together is the Hot)
The other is Load

Separate the old switch wires and turn on power.
Use ordinary tester.
Test each wire to metal box and see if the box is grounded.
Tester will light up on Hot wire.
You can also test each of the old switch wires to the other wires in the box.

1) Hot: Once you determine the Hot wire, this wire will connect to the P&S device:
Hot connects to the brass screws on right side, just as you said ... and these screws are on opposite side from silver screw.

2) Load: The wire to Load connects to brass screw on top left, which is on same side of device as silver screw. This screw sits opposite the P&S switch.

The last wire is the Neutral.
Test your Hot wire to all other wires in the box.
When the tester lights up, that is the Neutral

3) Neutral connects to silver screw which will complete the circuit to the P&S receptacle.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html

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Hi my bike wasnt sparking so i changed the stator and now bike runs but it dies or revs up on its own no matter what i do i tryed changing the e/choke for a new one but if i put that in it it wont start...


Have you tried ajusting the mix. screw on the side of the carb there should be one screw for idle (tick over), and one for mix. (the amount of air and fuel the engine needs), but make sure that the screw hasn't come out, if it is still in there screw it in but not to tight just until it stops then unscrew it 3 turns and try it, if it still runs fast unscrew it 0.25 of a turn. if it starts on tick over and its wont come down on the idle screw you need to turn it 0.25 of a turn until it slows down. if it doesn't start take the carb off and take the bowl of the bottom and clean any dirt out, there should be a tube in the centre with either a brass or plastic main jet make sure the hole is clear. When you put it back together make sure every thing is clean.

Sep 10, 2010 | RTO 50cc Moped Scooter

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I have a hobart a-200 mixer that had the brass drive gear go out. I rebuilt the transmission and used a parts breakdown to clean out and rebuilt the whole tranny. Now I have no 1st gear. Under a load...


Loosen the two planetary nuts, should be a thin nut and an acorn nut. With these loose make sure the large nut on top of the transmission is tight. Push the planetary all the way up on the shaft and turn the thin nut up until snug. Back the thin nut off 1/4 turn. Hold the thin nut in position and lock the acorn nut against it. The planetary must have a very small amount of up and down play.

May 20, 2010 | Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

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How do you adjust the clutch. Mine doesn't completely disengage when I shift gears. Too much play in the clutch handle.


You need to adjust the clutch cable adjustment for the clutch handle, THEN adjust the clutch itself.

1.First go to the clutch cable. Halfway down the cable is a rubber boot. Pull the rubber boot up the cable, (Or down. Pull it. Do NOT push), until it clears the adjustment. (The adjustment is a hex shaped piece, that is made of two parts. It's called a Barrel)
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(Where the clutch lever, touches the clutch lever mount on the handlebars)

2.Now open the derby cover.
(The round cover on the back of your primary cover. Not to insult your intelligence. This -> https://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=02649&store=&catId=&productId=p02649&leafCatId=&mmyId=
<-shows a custom primary inner, and outer cover. The derby cover is the round cover all the way to the right, on this custom primary cover. You can click on the photo to enlarge)

You will then see a single threaded stud, (Adjuster screw), in the middle of the clutch pressure plate.
This adjuster screw has a nut on it, to lock the screw from turning. (Jam nut)
Hold the stud end,(adjuster screw). from turning with a large flat tip screwdriver,
(May have changed to a small square end, that you use an open end wrench on), loosen the jam nut with an open end wrench.

Turn the adjuster screw in, until there is 1/8th inch slack of the clutch lever, to the clutch lever mount.
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Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. (Make sure you hold the adjuster screw in that place you set, as you tighten the jam nut. DON'T let the adjuster screw turn as you tighten the jam nut!)

3.Now tighten the lock nut, (Jam nut), on the adjustment barrel for the clutch cable. You should grease the threads of this adjustment barrel to prevent corrosion in the future. Pull the rubber boot back into place.

4.Replace the derby cover gasket as these will leak like a sieve. Replacing this gasket is cheap insurance. Install the derby cover, tighten the derby cover screws evenly. (Go to one screw, tighten until it touches. Then go to another screw, and do the same. After all three are touching, snug them down one turn at a time, going from screw to screw)

This is a thin cover. If you don't tighten the screws evenly, you can cause this thin cover to warp, and be the cause of a constant annoying oil drip.

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Boiler heats up but water only comes out of one head


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1 Answer

Removal of hub


Seasmith1, I would suggest more details when you post....just to clarify what the problem is.
I'm assuming this is 4wd?
1. You must remove the Hub to get to the rotor
2. Unbolt the 6- 12mm bolts and back them off to flush with the studs
3. Get a brass pipe or rod and bang the end of the stud/nut, 3 or 4 times, fairly hard, and the EVIL cone washers will come loose. Repeat on all studs/nuts until they're all loose, then carefully remove the outer hub from the rest of hub.
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5, once you remove that nut, CAREFULLY pull the rotor off(hub attached) and do NOT let the outer bearing fall out on the ground/dirt/grass.
6. Remove outer Bearing, turn over and remove bearing seal(you will need a oil seal puller or use whatever method you want....They are 3$, just pull it, right?)
7. Remove inner bearing, then turn back over ( place 2- 4x4's on each side of hub under the disc area, placing inner bearing race side down, over a towel or something soft) and use brass shaft or heavy gauge pipe to tap out races(DO NOT use anything steel, Iron, etc., you will damage the housing, races and then, well, yer screwed.) Just tap from side to side, few pretty good raps each side, each time, until it falls out onto a TOWEL or something soft.
8. Turn over and repeat # 7 for outer bearing race.
9. You will HAVE to remove all of these items if you are wanting to have the rotor turned, also, you will have to remove the 14mm bolts(6 of them) holding the hub to the rotor. I placed the disc on the ground on a towel at an angle(resting on two lug studs at a time), put a 14mm, deep socket, 1/2'' drive on there and gave it a good whack, they came right loose, then repeated that step for all six, removed them, pulled out the hub, AND VOILA, you're off to the local parts store for disc turning.

I recommend, after all that work, replacing the rotors. They're on average 20-25$ each. Each Rotor turning will cost you a minimum of 13$......I mean, 14 more, total and you have new rotors.

DON'T FORGET; High Temp. Disc Brake bearing grease, bearing grease packing tool or gloves, LOTS of rags and paper towels, Disc Pads, Disc pad quiet(they usually give it to you but ASK), 53mm rental bearing nut socket, snap ring pliers(if you need them), brass staff or pipe(also carefully clean any brass flakes that might go flying and don't grease and install bearings until you do)

Good luck, Seasmith!

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1 Answer

GE PGB975SEMSS Broiler and Oven flames too large and yellow


It sounds like your not getting enough air mixed in with the gas.if you can't adjust for more air make sure you were not supposed to change the spuds that feed the gas on the lower units.

Mar 16, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Leaking Kitchen Tap


I am assuming that your kitchen tap is leaking through the spout

if it is single lever you will need to remove the crown and spout by removing a small erasure size cap on the housing right under the spout or up near the back of the ever then use a hex wrench to remove the set screw( plug the drain holes do it does not go down the drain)

turn the water off (hot and cold ) under the sink
remove the set screw and lift off the lever

at his point you can take an adjustible wrench(channel lock and tighten the big ring nut that holds the cartridge in place

temorairly put the handle back on and put the handle in the off position turn the water on under the sink and see if it stopped leaking

if it still leaks you have to turn the water back off and remove the lock nut then the cartridge and go to big box store with old cartridge and name of mfg and get a new one and install

If you have seperate hot and cold valves on top of sink deermne which is leaking by turning one off with oher on undr the sink

once you have determined which it is (hot or cold)
take a phillips head screw driver( remove plastic clear cap on top of faucet handle with sharp crewdriver of knife blade) and remove the screw holdin the handle on to the stem(turn counter clock wise

be sure to turn water of under snk on both faucet risers after removing acrylic handle you then take an adjustible wrench and remove the crown nut turn counter clockwise until it comes off over stem

remove stem( looks like size of a pretzel about six inches long with washers on side and one on end

take the stem to local hardware(ace) or big box store and go to lumbing section ask clerk to inspect and recommend replacement washers or replacement stem (if needed)

go back reinstall and tighten crown nut snug( open (turn counter clockwise) tem valve before you snug it down with crown nut
install acrykic or chrome handle with brass phillips screw then ut cap on and turn on water and check for leaks

good luck


Dec 30, 2008 | Home

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