I have just replaced a train heat pump condenser with a Ruud UPNE 042JAZ. The existing gas furnace/ coil is being used, the furnace has a heat pump add on box mounted on its side. The wires coming out of this box going to the old condenser (6 wires) are as follows:
Box y to yellow on condenser
Box #2 not connected
Box #1 not connected
Box R to red on condenser
Box X2 to brown on condenser
Box O to orange on condenser
Box T to another brown on condenser
Box B to blue on condenser
So I have 6 wires coming outside but only have 5 wires on the ruud
unit, the ruud condenser has a yellow, red, blue, purple, and brown.
Not sure what connects to the ruud unit, what is the purple and blue wires? What does the T stand for on the thermostat and that aux. box?
The furnace must not have been heat pump compatable the reason the aux. box was installed? Is this a common retro fit? I've installed many A.C systems but this 1st heat pump is kicking my but.
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They don't always use the correct wire colors,if it is labeled w it is for your strip heat,shouldn't hurt to hook it up,most likely they used it for the strip heat,most heat pumps are wired to turn on your strip heat when the heatpump is in defrost mode and it is controlled by the heat pump,you can hook this to the emerg. heat or w2 :)
If the fan motor is not starting it may be the capacitor located behind the electrical panel on the outside unit. These are relatively inexpensive and easy to change. You can disconnect the power to the outdoor unit and remove the capacitor. Take it to your local HVAC wholsaler or contractor and have them check it. If its bad it should run you 20 to 30 dollars to replace. If it is not the capacitor then it may be the fan motor. If the blade turns easy it means the bearings are fine. One of the windings may be open thus making it able to turn but not run when power is supplied. I think this is a heat pump and there may be a control board on the outdoor unit which may control the operation of the fan. I have not found a wiring schematic for the unit yet. Once I find one I will let you know. The problem listed above is very comon and inexpensive for you to fix. If it is something other than the capacitor, I would call you local NATE certified technician and get her looked at.
MOST UNITS NOT HEAT PUMPS WIRE UP WITH 2 WIRES TO CONDENSER RED WIRE AND WHITE . WHITE GOES TO COMMON C ON FURNACE AND RED TO Y TERMINAL OF FURNACE Y ALSO GOES TO Y ON TSTAT. BOTH YELLOW WIRES MUST MEET AT Y OF FURNACE. WHITE FROM STAT TO W GREEN FROM TSTAT TO G AT FURNACE IF YOU HAVE C ON TSTAT HOOK UP BROWN WIRE OR BLUE FROM COMMON TERMINAL WHERE YOU HOOKED UP CONDENSER WHITE WIRE AT FURNACE TO TSTAT , MOST THERMOSTATS DONT NEED C RUN FROM FURNACE. THE TWO WIRES GOING TO CONDENSER IS - AND + TO ACTAVATE CONTACTOR IN OUTSIDE UNIT
Unfortunately, a strick standard does not exist for wire terminals and colors. However, there are "norms" which I will be happy to share with you.
Red - Rh & Rc (Jumpered)
Blue - C
Yellow - Y
White - W
Green - F
Note: this is assuming you have only ONE transformer in your low voltage circuit for both heating and cooling. If there is a low voltage transformer at your outdoor unit you will need to seperate Rc & Rh. At this point, I have to recommend a trained, qualified service technician. A good service technician should be able to resolve the wiring issue in under 30 minutes.
I only wish I was able to look at exactly what you have to include tracing all the wire back to the furnace and condensing unit. Tracing the wire is the only sure-fire wire to do the job correctly.
I wish this could have been a black & white answer; however, I do hope you found this information helpful in your endeavor. Good Luck to you! :-)
Gas heat is a moist heat. The products of combustion are condensating in your secondary heat exchanger. This is normal on a 90% or higher furnace. Open up the top of the condesate pump. You "might" just have a sickty float. If so clean it up and start adding a halve a cup of bleach a couple times a year to prevent slime build up.
Did you just install this heat pump? If so it sounds like you replace a regular a/c with a heat pump, which will require more wires for the reversing valve. First check to make sure you have 24v going to the condenser. Make sure you have a heat pump t-stat. You should have a orange t-stat wire for your reversing valve. At the t-stat you will have terminals R, Y, G, O, X or C or B, W1, and W2. R is half of your 24v circuit and is a red wire, Y is for cooling mode, G is the Fan green wire, O is for the reversing valve, orange wire, X or C or B is the other half of control circuit blue wire, W1 and W2 is the heat strips in the furnace tan and black wires. These are standard color code but remember electricity does not know colors and an installer may have used different colors. If all of this is correct possibly bad contactor.
Start with the simplest first it,s not fun but it's necessary EVERY TIME. Clean your evaporator and condenser coil, change your air filter. Getting to the evap. coil is often a real headache and a result doesn't get done often. When its clogged as you probably know the refrigerant can't absorb heat at the coil so it tries to absorb heat on the way to the compressor freezing the hot gas line the safety circuits that protect the heat pump compressor from getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor almost immediately will take the compressor of line (looking somewhat like a defrost cycle). I hope this helps it's a tough repair GL!