Question about Konica Minolta magicolor 2430 DL Laser Printer

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Want to buy 2530dl but...

I'm concern that the printer wont run 80 pound cover stock, that being the primary stock i use in my small business,would it print on that,do u have an answer?

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  • Anonymous Mar 09, 2009

    i changed it to thick stock and have never been able to print on anything other than regular paper...it tries but for some reason it can pick up the thick paper. why?!

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I own this printer and I've printed up to 110 lb metallic stock with no problem. Just make sure you change the paper setting to THICK STOCK.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary and remove the outer primay cover. Take the engine sprocket nut off, take the clutch adjuster out of the center of the clutch assembly and remove the mainshaft nut. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Take the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and primary chain off all together. Then, pull the rotor off the engine sprocket. It can be difficult to get off due to the strong magnets in it. Once off, there are four small bolts holding the stator on and two small screws holding the plug into the case. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. Torque the small Torx bolts that hold the stator on to 40 inch pounds. The engine sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds with one line of Loctite 271 heavy hold thread locker in it. The LEFT HANDED threaded mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds with a single line of Loctite in it. You'll need a primary locking bar to keep the engine from turning while applying torque to the engine sprocket nut and the mainshaft nut.

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How do i replace the regulator & stator on a 92


There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.

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1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

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1 Answer

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This is a major job. Far too much information for this forum. It will require a lot of typing in this small space.

First, you'll need a few tools that you may or may not have. You'll need an air impact wrench capable of breaking a nut with 165 foot pounds of torque and red locktite on it. Next you'll need a torque wrench capable of putting 150-165 foot pounds of torque on the nut. You'll also need a torque that will torque to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Not all torque wrenches will torque left handed threaded fasteners. If you have these or can get them, Please drop me a line at wd4ity@bellsouth.net I'll type out instructions step by step.

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2 Answers

When pulling in the clutch there is a loud squalching noise.


Sounds like your clutch throwout bearing is either bad or going bad. This is due to improper clutch cable adjustment. Just like in a straight shift automobile, if you keep your foot on the clutch pedal, the throwout bearing runs continuously shortening the life of the bearing. On a motorcycle, if the clutch cable is not adjusted to have just a bit of freeplay in it, the bearing will run continously as well shortening the life of the bearing. But, then again it could have just been a faulty bearing.

To repair the problem, you must remove the outer primary cover. First, drain the primary/transmission oil. Then you must loosen the primary chain adjuster beneath the primary cover. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster bolt outward to lower the adjuster shoe inside the primary.

Then remove the clutch inspection cover, the small spring, and the locknut on the clutch release mechansim. Remove the left hand foot peg. Remove all the bolts holding the outer primary cover on. As you remove the primary cover, you will have to turn the screw inside the release mechanism inwards to get it out of the release mechanism.

Once you get the primary cover off, you can see the clutch throwout or release bearing in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the snap ring and pull the bearing out. Inspect and replace the bearing if found to be defective. Carefully drive the center bolt out and the bearing out of it's holder. Install in the reverse manner.

Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Install a new gasket on the primary and slide the primary cover in place while turning the clutch release screw into the the release mechanism. Install the bolts that hold the primary cover on and tighten. Tighten small primary cover bolts to 80-110 Inch pounds and the left foot peg bolts to 16-28 Foot pounds.

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As you can see, this is not a very difficult job but it is not for the "faint of heart" since it involves removing the primary cover. I would rate the job difficulty as "moderate" due to this necessity. The only special tool required would be a set of snap ring pliers. Good Luck!

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