My amp works but only when i touch the top of the ground wire screw and the amp cover at the same time. if i just try to screw the ground wire down it wont turn on at all. what do you think the problem is?
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The size of the wire affects the performance of an amp, but the amp should still turn on. 12 volts is 12 volts. So you tested with another amp, on the same wires, and it works fine.The only thing you can really check on the new amp is the fuses in the side. If those are blown, then you should be able to (Unless the amp is fried, and that's why it blew the fuses in the first place) fire it right up. If the fuses arent blown, and you have all your power, and ground, and still nothing.. Well then in that case the amp is just bad, and regardless of the wattage, you just don't fix a Pyle amp.
what type of terminal is on the amp. screw or slip on type?
The plastic does not carry any type of ground. If your ground wire was melted, that means you have a 'hot' wire shorting across the ground somehow causing a short. This causes excessive heat like an 'arc' welder.
You might want to check your power wire to make sure its not making any contact to ground. Make sure any foreign debris is not causing a 'bridge' between the 2 posts.
If your terminals (or place where you hook up power and ground wires) are in good shape, re-wire and turn on the unit.
One of the more confusing things with a car stereo can be when the amplifier goes into protection mode. One minute it's working and the next minute it's not. Here's a brief troubleshooting method that will hopefully help you if your amplifiers ever go into protection.
1. Try to determine the cause. Amp's can go into protection mode for several reasons. Knowing what happened before it cut out can help determine how to fix it. Did the amp not work as soon as it was turned on? Did it happen after blasting for hours (may be thermal overload and it needs to cool)? Did it cut out after you hit a bump (a wire connection may have come loose)?
2. Tear it down. Get the amp down to it's most basic state. Remove all of the speaker wiring and RCA wiring and leave only the power, ground and remote leads connected. If you still have a problem in this state then either your amp is defective or you may have an installation problem such as the amp touching metal.
Remember that an amplifier should only be connected to the vehicle through the power and ground terminals. Mounting the amplifier to the metal of the vehicle, including putting the mounting screws into metal, can cause problems for your amplifier. Always mount the amplifier to a non-conductive surface. An easy way to accomplish this is to mount the amplifier to a wood board and then mount the board to the vehicle.
3. If the amp is OK in this torn down state keep adding the other wires back on until you find what causes the problem. Add the RCA cables first. Then add the speaker wires one at a time. If the speaker wires cause the problem then they are probably touching metal. Check to make sure that a speaker wire isn't being pinched somewhere between the amp and the speaker. Also check that the speaker wire or speaker terminals aren't touching the vehicle metal near the speaker opening. Rear decks and door panels can easily touch unprotected speaker terminals if not properly installed.
If the problem starts occuring when you connect the subwoofer wires to the amplifier you may have your subwoofers wired at too low an impedence. First check the specs on your amplifier to make sure what kind of loads it is stable under. Then go here and check the wiring configuration to make sure that your load is not too low:
If you believe your amplifier is defective contact the manufacturer first. Many have flat repair rates that are very affordable and cover parts and labor. However local repair shops may be cheaper if it is just a small repair. Compare the manufacturer's repair rate to that of a local shop. If you don't know the reputation of the local shop it may be better to send it to the manufacturer who will have working knowledge of the amp and parts readily available.
If the power wires have been reversed it can cause it to do that. if the positive wire touched any other metel on the amp than the positive it could have damaged the amp. If the amp is screwed down to any part of the body it wont hurt it.Check to make sure the remote wire has enough voltage to startup the amp .you can disconnect the remote wire take a jumper wire and jump the positive and remote inputs on the amp. If that resolves the problem than the voltage on the remote wire is to low to activate the amp.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If neither is too low, the power supply in the amp is probably blown.
The amps are probably going into protection mode. The wires are most likely not hooked up correctly. Make sure you have a good ground, good power source, and the remote wire is run correctly. Also make sure the speaker output wires aren't touching each other, and you have the correct ohm load for the amp. What kind of speakers/subs are hooked up and how are they wired?