Question about Victory Commercial Freezer VSF-3

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Errattic temperatures in Freezer

Freezer was at 20degrees when I arrived. Top of compressor was hot, pulled top off evaporator and coil was only frosted about half way across the top and half way down the front side where the Cap tubes enter. I checked the condenser and condenser fan which appeared to be fine, The unit was turned all the way up, the condenser fan was running and the condenser coil had been cleaned off. Diagnosis was that it was low on 404A . Added refrigerant and unit began to pull down slowly, I added refrigerant a little at a time and waited 15 min and checked progress and then added again, repeated several time. The last time I checked it it was at zero and I assumed it would cool on down. got a call today, they said it was at 25 again last night, it was at 10 degrees this morning and then when I got there at 3:00 it was at 3degrees. I pulled the top off the evaporator housing and the evaporator had the same frost patteren it had when I got there yesterday. What do I do or check next. Can I get a chart of the operation of this system? It is a Victory Commercial Freezer VF-1 They want to run it at about 10 below zero. They said it was working fine till 2 days ago. also at 0 degrees, what should the pressures read on this freezer?

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Check out "victory-refrig.com" for manuals, diagrams, etc.
Cap tube systems are "critical charge systems". Can be difficult to get right. You did not mention pressures that you had. The split on the evap vs.box temp is almost always 10 degrees for freezers. If you want a -10 box, your evap needs to be -20. As a general rule of thumb, you want the high side to be "ambient +30". This seems to work most every time. Your problem might be operations related. Them leaving the door open alot and so on. It could also be a problem with the evap fan or the control to it. It could also be that since there had been a problem with the unit, they are now constantly checking it. Could be checking during a defrost cycle. When your box is at 0 degrees, your pressure should be about a -10 and no less that a -15 degree for the evap. You may have to babysit this thing and see how far it will pull down. You may have a weak compressor. Also, I have had many Hobart freezers fail due to dirty condensers. This causes the oil in cap tube systems to gel and clog up the cap tubes. The only fix is replacing the cap tube. There are alot of variables here so be patient, it's not going to be a quick fix. One last thing, since R404A can fractionate, you really need to pull the charge out and weigh in the correct charge with virgin refrigerant. This will eliminate 2 things. 1, it will ensure the correct amount of refrigerant and, 2 no chance of having a poor mixture of refrigerant in the system causing inconsistant readings and performance.
Hope this helps. And remember, cap tube systems are performance measured by the amount of superheat just prior to the unit making temp and cutting off.

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

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My true gdm-43f freezer keeps running won


Not sure exactly what the situation is I'm going to give you a detailed overview on how the system works that way you'll be able to isolate the problem. Your machine is a single compressor unit, meaning that even though there are two seperate sides, the freezer and the refridgerator, they do not operate independantly. The sealed system, which is what cools the machine, has two parts, a high side and a low side. The high side is located under the machine and consist of a condensor, for which freon is pressurized back into a liquid and passed throug the compresoor to be released as a gas into the evaperator, the low side. This is where the freon is at a cold state. Ok, now that you have the bare basics of a sealed system, we move forward. The Evaporator is located in the freezer side, behind the freezer wall. As freon goes through the evaporator, a fan, called the evaporator fan, is located above it and circulates air throughout the freezer compartment. Also, an airway connects the freezer to the refridgerator, usually top right of freezer, or top left refridgerator on side by sides and through the freezer floor on top mount models. This means the freezer cools the refridgerator side. ****First check point**** Is the fan running in the freezer? This would cause the freezer not to cool as well but also a rise in the refrigeration side would be noticed. As freon goes throught the evaporator, which is made of aluminum, the temperature levels are well below the freezing point, so frost and ice will form on the coils. Over time, this kind of build up would form a blockage, not letting air be drawn from the bottom of the coils by the fan to circulate the cold air. To prevent this from happening the a defrost heater is installed to thaw the ice away and comes on every 6-8 hours. This is initiated by the defrost timer, or in some machines an adaptive defrost control. The heater will be located at the bottom of the evaporator because hot air rises, getting maximum effect. A third part to the defrost system, the first two being the timer and heater, is a bi-metal,or terminating thermost. Its called this because when the thermostat is cold, the metal inside it constricts making a pathway for electricity to flow through to the defrost heaters so it can get hot, and as the heat rises and the ice melts away, the terminating thermostat will warm up, and the metal will expand causing the path of electricity to be broken, turing the heaters off. This is to prevent any high temperature situation from happening, like melting plastic or even a fire. If any of these parts fail, the machine will nit defrost. ***Checkpoint two***** Do you see any ice build up on the freezer wall. This ice will be completely across the back wall. Most signs of defrost problems are noticed first by a rise in temperature on the refrigerator side first. The above can be assessed with a quick look and listen. If no frost is present and the fan is running you can rule out the above. ****Please not that ice build up on just a small section, for example, upper left or right corner only is not a defrost situation but a sealed system issue, caused from low freon or a restriction in the lines and a EPA certified technician should be called.****** The last thing you should check you'll need to pull the machine away from the wall and remove the lower panel to gain access to the compressor area. What you are checking here is to see if the condensor fan motor is running and that the coils are somewhat clean enough for air to flow across them. The fan draws air from across the compressor and through the coils helping to keep the compressor temperature down and also to evaporate the water that is drain when the machine goes into defrost. Rule of thumb is if the compressor is on the fan should be. If the fan isn't runnning the heat from the compressor will be transferred to the machine and notice first on the freezer more so than the refrigerator. ****checkpoint three**** IS the condensor fan running? Are the coils clean, and can you feel the air from the fan with your hand placed on the opposite side of the coils?
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1 Answer

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My freezer does not work all of the time. I HAVE NOTICED that the freezer get very hot at the top of the unit, I have measured this with a digital therm.and temperture was reading 136 degree F. and,the...


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Don't worry about the line, it is supposed to be the way it is. If you are talking about the condenser coil, located on the back bottom part of the unit, with a small fan in front of it, yes, it is supposed to be hot.

The condenser job is to disipate the heat absorbed by the evaporator (the coil inside the freezer). Make sure the condenser is clean and condenser fan is working, also, make sure there is air circulating thru the back of the unit to help cooling the condenser.

The noises you hear, are probably the defrost coil melting the ice on the evaporator, this function is on a timer and happens 3 or 4 times a day.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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