I have a 75x2 MTX amp bridged to mono driving a pair of 10 in Audiobahn subs, the amp has worked fine for 4-5 years now, but in the past week or so it has been giving me a huge headache. I have a 5 speed truck and when I am (for example) sitting in traffic it plays fine, once I pull out and hit about 45mph, it quits...I replaced the wiring and I replaced the stereo with another one I have and no help. So I took an Alpine amp out of my other truck and it plays perfect in place of the MTX. The amp isn't losing power, I see the light on even when the amp quits playing. Could this be a problem with the voltage increasing from the alternator during higher rpm? Could the higher voltage be causing my problem to re-occur? What could my amp trouble be? Maybe a bad/shorted output? Please help!
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Re: Amp only plays during low engine rpm
Yes, the overvoltage...compounded by maybe an alternator that is also not operating within limits (Does your headlights or horn get brighter / louder?). look inside the amp for any adjustable device for OVER VOLTAGE THRESHOLD or similar and turn it slightly clockwise
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most times it is L+ and R-. If the amp is bridegable. Also, make sure you don't go to low in the ohms. If your amp only runs at 4 ohms mono. Don't bridge it down o 2 ohms mono. If you have dual voice coil subs. bridge the coils of the subs in series, then bridge the two subs outside the box parallel.
You cant bridge it to the MONO AMP . You can only bridge subs & speakers to 2 CH & 4 CH AMPS that are bridgeable. Because if it appears that there is 2 channels on a Mono amp its so its convenient for you to hook up 2 4ohm subs to it easily But both channels are actually connect internally together in parallel inside the amp unlike a 2 channel they are separate.
So just connect your mtx 9500 to a plus and a minus and doesnt matter which since all the + terminals of are connected together and - are connected together already.
Whats important is on the side of the sub/box it reads 2 ohms. The lower the ohms the more power the Mono amp will put out. Mono amps are designed to handle 2ohm loads.
If it reads 4ohms The MONO amp is the wrong amp to use cause the power will be weaker. So if you have a 1000 Watt Mono amp at 4ohms the sub will only get 500 WATTS Max while a 2 ohm will get the full 1000 Watts.
If it reads 4 ohms connect it to a 2CHANNEL AMP and BRIDGE IT (connect + of the sub to 1st channels positive of the amp then connect - of the sub to 2nd channels negative of the amp) . The power will be doubled when you bridge it on a 2 channel amp. NOW if it was a 2 ohm sub and you bridged it to the 2 channel amp it will fry the subs and ruin the amp. 2 CHANNELS CANT TAKE A 2OHM LOAD BRIDGED OK.
First of all use the larger output amp to power the sub. You can tell if its free-to-air if in the middle of the magnet there is a hole for "air" to flow freely. The advantage of free to air is they dont require much of an enclosure or next to none so you can mount it on a single piece of mdf wood and use the cab in the truck as an enclouse itself. I would bridge the amp for the sub to mono but be careful to tune so you dont "distort". Secondly the amp for the mid's shouldn't be bridged any maybe you could run the front and rear speakers off the same amp.. I would get an amp for rear and front speakers each and one for the sub. Your ouput rca's should goto the cross-over first then to the amp (sub) - then wired to your sub (mono) which is bridged. Ensure to tune your cross-over to lowest frequency for sub. Its easy to bridge an amp if its 4 channel.. looking at the speaker terminals it will look like ( + - + -) use the two outer most terminals to bridge to mono.
A pair of JH4512-04's can be wired to 2 ohms if the subs themselves are paralleled. There's only one voice coil and it's 4 ohm. If wired in series, the final impedance to the amp would be 8 ohms. They cannot be wired to 1 ohm.
In bridged mode, your 4-channel amp is only stable down to 4 ohms. You can bridge 2 of the channels to provide a relatively low 200 watts RMS X 2. The best power solution for your subs would be to bridge channels 1 and 2 and wire one sub to it. Likewise, bridge channels 3 and 4 and connect the other sub. If you connect both subs in parallel, the impedance will be too low causing the amp to overheat and possible fail.
As for the settings: Low pass filter on, crossover somewhere between 80-100, input levels to match your receiver, and bass boost to your personal preference.
Max 200 W. You could bridge 2 channels of a 4 channel amp (or get a 2 ch amp and bridge it) and connect the sub. Bridging = connect + of sub to + of one channel, and connect - of sub to - of *other* channel. Check amp manual for instructions.
Don't get a mono - most are 300W or more - might burn the coil during loud passages.
The 2 ohm stable rating on the amp is PER channel meaning that you could effectively hook up a 2 ohm speaker or a 2 ohm load to each channel without the amp getting f"d up-butin bridged mode it will only be 4 ohm stable. to achieve a 4 ohm load with your sub the type x wire the coils in series that will get you at 4 ohms to run in bridged mono .But you will get the exact same amount of power if you wire each coil to one channel of the amp as bridged mono sees the sum of your 2 ohm channels combined-Hope that helps.
No, thats what you don't what to do. Even if you have 2 matching amps you don't do that. Every amp puts out different, and for 2 subs, you want to play at the the same time. If your only running 2 10's, I personal would just run the alpine (it's a mono amp made especially for subs) thats plenty for what you have. make sure you bridge them to get the full response. And your other amp i would use for your highs or mids, but run it @ stereo , which is 300 w @ 4 ohms. (Note: 600w @ 2ohms would be bridged and would play in Mono)
Building Competition stereo's is a big hobby of mine.