The external fan is cutting off when the unit is operating in hot temperatures. The blades stop spinning and the cool air stops blowing.
It seems to have a problem operating in temperatures over 38 degrees celsius. No errors are displayed on the unit inside when this happens. Its just noticeable as the temperature inside starts to rise. Is the unit over heating? Is there a switch that gets tripped at a certain temperature which is causing this?
I thought that these units were designed to operate in hot temperatures as that's when they are required. Has any one got any helpful advise?
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Your question does not include what type of system you are asking about, but the assumption is that it is a heat pump. The loud humming is the compressor running by itself while the fan is off.
This is the typical way a reasonably new heat pump operates:
There is a coil temperature sensor that initiates a defrost period to eliminate the frost/ice build up on the outdoor coil. In the defrost mode, the outdoor fan shuts off and the reversing valve in the heat pump reverses the direction of refrigerant flow to warm the outdoor coil. The same coil temperature sensor senses the temperature of the external surface of the coil and tells the defrost control when the frost is gone initiating another 'reverse cycle' to put it back into heating mode. In the heating mode, the outdoor fan runs again.
If you have the heat pump installed where snow drifts accumulate, you will have a problem extracting heat from the outdoor air, and coil frosting and freezing will be exaggerated. If you have excessive ice build up due to a defosting issue, the ice can actually stop the fan from rotating, but you would hear loud bangind and rattling for hours first as the fan blades come in contact with the ice.
If you do not have drifts, but continually have an excessive amount of ice build up, either the sensor is possibly faulty or the defrost control board is faulty. The sensor's clip could easily have been knocked loose from the coil by ice and is no longer sensing coil temperature and if so the result would be the lack of defrost initiation.
your thermostat could be wired in to a energy recovery venilator which will bring the unit on for a certain amount of time every hour some thermostats have recirculate mode which will do the same thing to help filter the air
Your problem is outside, i can see why he would say it is a sensor problem ...But perhaps it is your fan not turning at the correct speed. example if on a really hot day your air conditioning cuts out it could be your pressure is too high which would trip your compressor. What refrigerant does this system use? and is this a new installation? or is it an old installation new problem? Do something for the MUZ-GA35VA external device open the top when u have another failure and on the board there should be a particular type of flashing pattern, that "should" be fairly accurate in diagnosing the problem. Get back to me
try to check your compressor if working if not check electrical parts like capacitor. overload if defect replace. also try if compressor working observe the condensing unit fan blowing hot air if not theres possibilities of leakage of refrigerant gas need for braze leak then recharge refigerant gas. or possible compressor loose compression need for replacement.
The fan of the AC unit is always ON unless there is a power saving option on the model you are having and which is not specified by you. You might be noticing the higher noise level in the night as a possible higher voltage in the night power supply or the external surrounding noise being silent.
Open the panel and check if the fan bearings are dry, oil them , if there is enough dirt have a good cleaning with air or remove and spray with jet wash. make sure that the fan motor is not loose or the blades are touching any parts. reset after a close check with the fan manually rotated.
Set the temperature to normal and the fan speed to the lowest. Choose energy saver -power option where the fan will cut off totally... only if present in this model.
When you shut it off and back on it slugged the compressor if you turn it off and back on before the pressures equalize between the high and low sides it will slug the compressor and it will not run should let sit for five minutes or so before restarting. The humming is either the compressor making noise usually common for the compressor to make some noise or the fan motor bearings are getting bad on the outside unit. If the unit works normal probably not much you can do till it breaks if it is the compressor it is more economical to replace the whole unit if it is just the fan motor it is worth changing. You could take an amp draw on the fan motor and the compressor to see if the are within the limits on the name plate of the outside unit.
Capacitor, dirty condencer coil causing the motor amps to run too high. But most likely worn bearing on blade side of motor causing it to pull to one side causing it to over heat and shut down. Sleve bearings should have no side play.
-If both compressor and fan motor starts and stop, thermostat is the defect. - If only the compressor check for your outlet no sign of discoloration, check the voltage if normal, check the defective overload protector of the compressor it its external, or compressor itself is defective