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Re: OPENING CANISTER UP TO SEE IF BEARINGS OR MOTOR IS...
You really don't want to get into the vacuum. After you get in, there's not much that you can do other than look. If you really want to get in, there are two strips,one on each side of the cleaner under the rubber bumpers. The strips have to be removed by pulling off the bumper and pull them out the front of the vac.This is not easy. The bearings are not replaceable. If the armature is gone, you can have a armature and bracket kit installed instead of a new motor and save some money. The armature comes with the bearing pressed on the top.
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on the side of the vacuum there are rubber guards.These slide off....pull them off with a pair of needle nose.pull the slides off from the front. then open the front cover,at the bottom there are a couple little "nibs" that hold front off..Gently put a flat screw driver in and pull up..The machine will then be readt to open.best way is to put machine upside down and take the bottom off...
1) test the power cord for open, defective, or break use the VOM 2) test the fuse for open, loose wire use the VOM 3( tes the motor, for open, short, or defective, need repair. 4)test the switch, for open, or loose wires, or short. see how to do it. God bless you
I believe that this is probably a Kenmore Canister vacuum cleaner, but I can't be positive. The model number 116 is just the first part, and all Sears vacuum cleaners start with model 116. There is a . after the 116 that will identify the vacuum. If you'd like me to be more model specific, or if this is an upright vacuum, please just request a clarification and I can take pictures even for you.
If this is a canister style vacuum, then you'll need to remove the foot pedal that rewinds the cord reel. There are 2 or 3 (depending on which model you have) hidden screws underneath of this pedal. You may simply pry off the pedal using a flat head screw driver. Also when you have the bag door open, you may just pull forward while it's open, and this will remove the bag door housing. There should be two screws in the front of the motor housing that need to be removed as well.
My guess from the age of the vacuum that's probably the motor that's gone. If this is the case, you probably can still get a motor if you'd like to just replace the motor inside, rather then buying a new vacuum. Typical Sears Kenmore canister motors sell for 79-120 dollars.
Again, I'd be happy to try and help you further, I will just need the entire model number after the 116. to know which vacuum you have.
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Check to be certain the thermo lite is on and not the bag full indicator. The thermo detector is very reliable, but the bag fill valve often fails. If it is the thermo, check your hose and wand for blockage by dropping a coin through them,before opening the vac itself.Otherwise you may have a bad set of motor bearings causing the motor to overheat due to its age. The 2100 and all its canister cousins made since 1982 seem to be prone to failure of the dial valve on top cracking internally. The causes the bag full indicator to come on and the vac to shut down. To open the vac you will need to slide the locking keys and bumpers forward with the bag door open. Do this with a set of pliers. Once done the vac will open from front to back like a **** shell. Be careful to look at the underside hinge are of the bag door before separating and mark and locate the wiring harness . This vac only goes back together one way, perfectly assembled it pops together with ease. If any piece is out of line it`s like a RUBIKS Cube. Take your time . OEM parts are only available through an AERUS Elctrolux dealer or repair shop
Try blowing out the motor housing with commpressed air through the cooling vents as it is running, if that dont quiet it down it may be the bearings are dry and need to be oiled, use 20w 3 in 1 oil in the blue container.
DONT KNOW WHAT THE 5000 CANNISTER LOOKS LIKE BUT MY 2100 IS A PULL BEHIND CANNISTER AND IT WAS SNEAKY. THE LONG PLASTIC STRIPS DOWN THE SIDES HAS A TRACK IN IT. YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR AND PULL THE STRIP OFF THE TRACK LONG WAYS AND THE TOP HALF WILL SEPERATE FROM THE BOTTOM HALF. BEWARE THE WIRING INSIDE IS JUST LONG ENOUGH AND CAN DISCONNECT EASY. I DONT KNOW IF THIS IS THE SAME BUT NOONE ELSE WAS VOLUNTEERING ANY INFO AT ALL.
Open the door to remove the bag. Pull the side bumpers forward when the door is open. The profile of the edge of the top and the bottom of the vacum body is a "L" shape. The cross section of the bumper is a "I" and that holds the body together. Carefully lift up the top just a little to free the plastic end cap that conceals the cord spool. There are two plastic pins on the top and bottom that hold this piece on and they frequently get broken. (If that happens repair shops drill and hole and insert a screw.) There is a plastic protector plate that lifts up on either end and then is slid about 1/8th inch clockwise and then up. Copy the wiring pattern on the four male connectors on the motor and the wire spool. Post your wiring diagram and it will solve a lot of people's problem trying to reassemble this machine's -- including mine.