Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Clutch removal on Neptune TL

I see in manual it has a torq of 96# but it doesn't say whether it is L or R hand threads. I need to take it off to check the clutch but I don't know
which way to turn it. If anyone knows where I can find more detail service manual, please help me out.

thanks

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  • 4 more comments 
  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 08, 2009

    Hello david668,

    I know of no better documentation then the SM. I pulled my pulley clutch off about three weeks ago and I think it was CW but I could be wrong. Maybe another forum member will jump in with the answer. I used a socket wrench to remove, tilted washer back to get a better reach angle as you can see it’s a tight work space. At 96 inch pounds/8 foot pounds it’s not too bad even if you start in the wrong direction of rotation for removal. The reason I removed the clutch and re-lubed needle bearings in the pulley clutch hub was for dc/UC error codes. The machine would not spin up with out producing those out of balance codes. I re-lubed the needle bearings in the clutch hub and that fixed my issue with dc/UC codes in spin mode. Make sure you get the clutch properly seated when you reinstall. Mine spun off a couple times on my reinstall attempts.

    Been through many wash loads since this repair with no dc/UC errors. Cost of repair came to 3 squirts of WD-40 and a couple of hours on the machine, I work at a slow pace. I spent several hours searching forums for a hint of how to repair and documentation support, looks like you are well on your way. Good luck.

  • david668 Jan 13, 2009

    Thanks for getting back to me. I removed the clutch and cleaned it all out and oiled w/WD-40 real well. Then I put it all back together and run the washer and I still have the same problem...it won't spin, just the tumblers turn. I removed the hoses on the pump...all is clear and no clogging. It just seems the clutch doesn't engage or catch the fork to turn the tub in the spin cycle. Other than replacing the clutch...any suggestions?



    Thank you

    dave

  • david668 Jan 14, 2009

    Thank you for staying with me. I did get the dc/uc codes so I tried it without any clothes and I ran it thru a complete cycle approx 54 min.



    Are you saying the motor turns both directions?



    This tub does not turn either in fill or spin cycle. I even took the pump hoses to see if anything was restricting it but nothing there.



    When the washer went thru the cycle from the beginning as if it has a load in it, when it came to the spin cycle there was about 3" of water in the bottom of the tub. I don't know if that was to represent a low fill amount or the drain cycle didn't run long enough to fully pump all the water out...since I don't know if all the water is to be out of the tub when it calls for it to spin...that is why I wondered if the pump ran long enough. I hate to order a clutch assy. and it not be the problem and I don't have a way to test for RPM's on the motor to see if it is running the way it is supposed to. I didn't try running the washer on the Quick cycle. Does the motor turn the opposite direction? I have not seen the tub turn at all either in fill or rinse.



    dave

  • david668 Jan 15, 2009

    Rich, can you isolate the cycle so the pump only runs. I want to make sure all the water is out of the bottom of the tub...is there a load switch in there that tells the control to rotate the tub for spinning out the water?



    I can see when it starts in the spin cycle that the motor wants to move clockwise a little bit up against the resistance in the pulley, then it switches direction and run CCW to turn the tumblers only.



    dave

  • david668 Jan 16, 2009

    Thanks, that drained my tub.



    But, I still can't get the motor to turn CW to turn the tub so the water in the clothes gets spun out.



    Why won't the motor turn CW?

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s May 11, 2010

    Hello david668,



    Just a follow up, after reviewing your post. Do you have the Service Mnual or the Troubleshooting guide packed in the control panel of the machine. Just in case here is the SM in PDF format from the Servicematters site.


    http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_lib...

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I checked with the person that was watching me remove the clutch and he said RH. Make sure you reseat the clutch properly on re-install. I had to place the belt back on and rock it back and forth to re-seat on the shaft. Without removing the tub, it's a tight work space. We did raise the tube a bit with a lever under the motor to get a bit more clearance.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

  • 6 more comments 
  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 13, 2009

    Dave,
    Did you take any error codes in spin cycle prior to re-lube of the clutch? Did the washer run through the spin cycle prior to the clutch removal? My problem was with dc/UC error codes in spin cycle. I haven't figured out how the clutch really works it this machine. Was the clutch spring OK on your inspection, by that I mean not broken and he tab of the spring seated in the groove of the clutch housing? I wish I would have taken a pic of the clutch housing when I pulled it out and removed the plastic cover. I'll keep searching/working for a possible fix for you.

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 14, 2009

    Dave,

    Was thinking about your issue, I pulled the front panel off my FAW6800AWW this morning to verify what motor direction the motor spun the wash basket in spin cycle VS wash cycle.

    Spin cycle selected - Motor controller powers motor to rotate Clutch pulley CCW (wash basket rotates CCW).

    Quick wash cycle selected - Motor controller powers motor to rotate Clutch pulley CW to rotate Tumblers/Agitators in the wash basket.

    Are you seing this action in these cycles? I’m wondering if your motor controller board is working correctly or the clutch continues to be is an issue.

    FYI … At the start of the wash cycle while water is filling the wash basket. The control board signals the motor controller/motor to spin the clutch pulley/wash basket CCW (spin direction) at low RPM during the water fill process.

    ****

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 15, 2009


    Dave, no problem I’m a DIY’er and refused to junk my machine as long as parts cost did not trigger a replacement decision. I would not order a clutch if you can tolerate this issue, we need to further fault isolate. I’ll try to help you thru this issue, maybe we can get a 2nd, 3rd opinion from a more senior member on this forum regrding your issue.

    “”This tub does not turn either in fill or spin cycle. I even took the pump hoses to see if anything was restricting it but nothing there.””

    So I understand the current problem to be is that your clothes are coming out wet and the end of any wash was cycle? Washer will not spin dry the load for dryer or hanging?

    “”Are you saying the motor turns both directions?””

    Yes, based on my observation the motor controller powers the motor to turn CCW in spin cycle, CW in wash cycle.

    “”I don't have a way to test for RPM's on the motor to see if it is running the way it is supposed to.””

    We do not need to verify motor RPM I got down on the floor with the front panel off to check rotation direction of the motor and clutch pulley for spin/wash cycle. We need to verify motor/clutch pulley is rotating CCW for Spin cycle and CW for wash cycle, sounds like it is working correctly (CW) for wash cycle.

    “”This tub does not turn either in fill or spin cycle. I even took the pump hoses to see if anything was restricting it but nothing there.””

    Wash basket in the tub should rotate CCW during the start of fill cycle based on what my machine is doing; I believe to better saturate the wash load during fill cycle. The pressure switch signals the control board when to stop water fill and make drain pump decisions during the wash cycle. If you are not taken “nd” error code during the wash cycle I would assume the drain pump function is working as designed.

    To make sure I’m clear on the current problem, can you start a "Spin Only" cycle, empty no clothes needed in the machine. View the motor/clutch pulley rotation it should be rotating CCW. If the motor shaft pulley is not rotating CCW then we have to fault isolate from this point. If the motor/clutch pulley is rotating CCW and the wash basket inside the tub is not rotating CCW we need to fault isolate from this point. Note the Tumblers/Agitators should not rotate in spin cycle.


    I ran a quick Wash cycle just to reduce the time needed to verify motor/clutch rotation during a wash cycle.

    Rich

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 16, 2009

    Dave,




    You can do it with this process posted by another user it is also documented in the board output test of the troubleshooting guide and SM. When my machine goes into spin mode the motor, drives the clutch CCW and the wash basket viewed by lifting the top of the washer turns CCW. My washer will start up a spin cycle during a wash cycle with a few inches of water in the basket. So your machine is not spinning dry the load for hanging or the dryer? Here is the process to run the drain pump in Service Mode;



    ""One other thing I learned for those of you who don’t want to bail out the water in the tub. If you want to have the machine drain the excess water without bailing this should work. Turn the machine off and make sure the "locked door" light goes off. Then hold the "Spin" and "Enviro Plus" buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. "00" should then show up on the display. Then hit the "Delicate" button, then the “Pre-soak” button. This should activate the pump and get all the water out. Once the water is out hit the off button.”"

    Good luck, Rich


  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 16, 2009


    Hi Dave you said ""I can see when it starts in the spin cycle that the motor wants to move clockwise a little bit up against the resistance in the pulley, then it switches direction and run CCW to turn the tumblers only."



    Normal operation for spin cycle is …..In spin cycle the motor turns CCW rotating the Clutch pulley CCW which rotates the wash basket CCW to spin dry the load. You state the tumblers in the wash basket are rotating and the wash basket is not.... I feel that is a failure issue of the clutch as I understand the mechanics of this system. Again, hit the Spin Only key and watch the motor/clutch CCW rotation, the tumblers in the wash basket must not rotate and the wash basket (tub) should spin CCW to spin dry the load,



    Please look at this Post from another forum

    http://applianceguru.com/forum2/13242.ht...

    Read the whole post and key into the Thu Jun 21st, 2007 8:59pm

    I pasted in below.



    ""If your unit passed the OOB sensor test, the next suspect for these codes is the clutch. When the unit starts into spin, the tumblers at the bottom of the tub should not rotate, maybe at the most 1/2 to a full revolution and that is it. If they continue to turn as the unit is spinning, your clutch is bad. You can view this by raising the top up. It is held down by two clips accessible with a putty knife through the top and front panel gap. ""



    Your failure has the tumblers rotating but the wash basket is not rotating CCW.



    Most failures of this type cause the tumblers to rotate in spin cycle with the wash basket rotating CCW causing dc/UC fail codes regardless of wash load size.



    I could only suggest removing the clutch pulley again and make sure the spring in the clutch is not broken, that the spring is installed properly in the clutch housing and the clutch is properly reseated on the spinner shaft. I don't have a picture of the clutch so I can't explain what I mean by "the spring is installed properly". I will take a picture of the clutch housing and spring the next time I pull it out.



    Rich

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 16, 2009

    Saw this on Ebay this morning. If you feel you need to purchase, just research that this is the correct clutch for your machine. The ebay listing states;



    Maytag PULLEY CLUTCH ASSY
    Part Number: 12002211
    product works with the following models:
    Maytag FAV6800AWQ
    Maytag FAV6800AWW
    Maytag FAV9800AWQ
    Maytag FAV9800AWW

    http://cgi.ebay.com/12002211-NEW-MAYTAG-...



    There is nothing more I can do from here, good luck,

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 17, 2009

    Dave, how are you making out?

    Just came across this old post on another forum, I believe this person had the same problem as you. The post doesn’t speak to his resolution, but the person working with him on the issue confirms that the motor does reverse direction in spin cycle.

    http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.ph...

    If you decide to fix can you let me know what did resolve your issue, I feel I will experience this issue down the road. I’m going to keep up DIY repairs on this machine until parts cost force me to move on.

    Rich

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Apr 26, 2009

    Hello peter51t,



    Last couple post of forum members had similar issues, frozen spinner shaft coupler to the Upper Roller clutch bearing. My FAV6800AWW is a series 16 only uses the single roller clutch bearing in the clutch hub. Just to let you know this clutch will work in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW machines. It's a bit less expensive and I can see no difference between it and my original. I have side by side pic’s in this post.

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I just took my Maytag (Neptune TL Model # FAV6800AWW) washer a part. There are 2 each single directional bearings on the clutch assembly.
One spins the tab counterclockwaise only, when motor reverses the other bearing spins the tumblers. Both my bearings were rusted and one of them (main tab) was not spinning. I had to humer it out. I did use a lot of WD40 and got it running. As of this minute I was ordering a new pully and clutch assembly # 12002211. So next time I will just replace the whole assembly.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

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This will help you trouble shoot issues with this machine.  I removed my clutch and lubed needle berings in the clutch pully and that took care of my issue of DC/UC errors in spin cycle.  Here is a quick note on my repair action.

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 4 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a spin cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

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I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out a trying a fix If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

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I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

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