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wiring harness is used to connect all the electronic devices in the vehicle from front bumper through to the back bumper three sections
front engine bay loom
rear vehicle loom wiring loom covers
communication and monitors
starting and charging
switches and levers
engine management and transmission computers
It sounds like there is an intermittent connection in the wiring loom at the base of the steering columna at the hinge where it tilts. Check for any loose plastic interconnection blocks or chafed or broken wires in the wiring loom around the base of the column. Jiggling the loom may help to isolate the area at fault.You may have to unwind the tape around the loom to find exactly where the problem is. Repair as necessary. You may have to splice in a bit of wire if there are any broken wires. Wrap any bare wires with tape to prevent any shorts.
Sounds like a bad connection in the park light circuit. The collision may have fractured a wire that supplies power or earth to the park lights. Check for a poor/loose Earth wire bolt inside the engine bay near the head lights an check for any obvious signs of any wires in the loom showing damage by chafing or kinking. Also check any of the plastic block connectors in the wiring loom for the park lights. Sometimes the metal spade connections are not secured properly within the plastic block and can be pushed back when the plastic blocks are joined together or can just work loose over time. Check the security of these connectors in the plastic blocks by gently pulling then pushing each wire in the connector block. There should be little or no movement. Any loose ones will be obvious if they pull out some distance. If you have a multimeter or test lamp you can check for power on the input to the globe sockets and interconnecting blocks or earth continuity.
All dash gages, including the speedometer are powered by the same fuse. Since it's intact then the problem is in the wiring loom in the dash - a connection is loose. The dash must be dismantled to access the wiring loom for testing - check every connector and every wire until you find the broken one.
Had an identical problem with my 16830 washer dryer and noticed reading other posts that others have had this issue with 16810 units too. After reading posts about the 'condensor issue' causing clothes not to dry properly I got a socket set and took the back-half cover off the machine (11 screws/hex screws in all) to have a look. I then removed and cleaned out the accumulated fluff from the transparent plastic condensor unit. It didn't appear to have much fluff caught within it so I doubted that this would solve the issue.
Upon putting the unit back into situ I noticed that the temperature sensor in the large black flexible tube that connects the condensor to the drum had just one orange wire attached to it. I then noticed a second orange wire hanging loose nearby and putting two and two together figured that the loose wire had dropped off the sensor. Since the connector can't be rewired I resorted to carefully soldering the loose wire to the connector and ty-rapped both orange wires to the connector to prevent the wires working loose again. Once I had the connector back on the sensor both wires were pretty taut between the main wiring loom and the sensor and so I suspect that what had happened was that in normal use the wire had come adrift from the connector due to the drum rocking back and forth and pulling the wires against the loom - a design flaw I'd say.
To create more slack for the two wires in question I cut the ty-rap holding the main wiring loom to the side of the dryer and then re-fitted a new ty-rap in exactly the same place around all the wires in the main loom except for the two orange wires so that they remained free of the main loom to move as the drum rocks. With the wire back in place and everthing re-assembled the dryer heats up perfectly and counts down as it should.
I figured that with the sensor not operating the computer determined incorrectly that the air leaving the drum was too hot/dry as would be the case if the contents of the drum were completely dry and as a result the computer turned off and kept off the heater for the remainder of the drying cycle. I also concluded that as an energy saving feature - with the computer thinking the clothes are dry - the dryer speeds up the remaining drying time so that the drying cycle finishes sooner, hence why the counter completes sooner than it should and all with no error message.
The connectors for towing wire harnesses on foresters are generally on the passenger side, below the rear taillight inside the cargo space. some require pulling up the foam block that is between the spare tire compartment and the taillight. Check where you replace the tailights from inside the car, if there isn't a matching connector hanging out there, check around the spare tire compartment, see if you can remove the carpeted foam block next to the compartment and find the plug under there.