Question about Hotpoint Aquarius WD640 Front Load Washer/Dryer

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Wires to loom have come loose

Wires have come loose do not know where to connect them back to

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  • lee_p_freema Jan 08, 2009

    Thanks for getting in touch the model number is VTD20G and the wires are going into the the timer dial the ones that have come loose are a double white and a double blue unsure what number they clip onto and whether its the top with the grey and red, middle or bottom at the minute it just gives a buzzing noise and goes off. At the time we were replacing the belt. Thanks for any help you can give

  • Barry Coates
    Barry Coates May 11, 2010

    Which wires have come loose, and can you confirm the model number please?

  • jackie
    jackie Nov 16, 2013

    whirpool awo 3761/5 model number 859203015508


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Sorry to have been so long in getting back to you, I have been trying to obtain a wiring diagram for your model, unfortunately ,I cannot get one, so am sorry to say I cannot help on this occasion.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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Grey wire come off on Malber WD1000 dryer

Your picture was a big help in figuring out your problem.
The "secondary thermostat" (the little round one) has two terminals, both designated "T13". An orange wire connects the left terminal to the top of the "Working Thermostat" (nearer the front - with long sensor probe), and TWO gray wires connect to the right terminal.
In your picture, one of the wires looks brown. It's not. That's just a gray wire that got hot. Connect your loose gray wire (it should be marked T13) to it, so both gray wires connect to the right terminal spade.
So your hunch was correct.
Funny, I've repaired 40-50 WD1000s over the last 8 years, and I've never seen or heard of a machine shaking these spade connectors off. They go on TIGHT, and stay on! So, your experience is a new one for me.
Mike (Wash DC suburbs)

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My AEG Lavamat 16830 Washer Dryer does not heat up on the drying cycle. I comes on and after 15minutes the timer jumps to ) and the dryer stops. On opening the door the clothes have not been heated at all...

Had an identical problem with my 16830 washer dryer and noticed reading other posts that others have had this issue with 16810 units too. After reading posts about the 'condensor issue' causing clothes not to dry properly I got a socket set and took the back-half cover off the machine (11 screws/hex screws in all) to have a look. I then removed and cleaned out the accumulated fluff from the transparent plastic condensor unit. It didn't appear to have much fluff caught within it so I doubted that this would solve the issue.

Upon putting the unit back into situ I noticed that the temperature sensor in the large black flexible tube that connects the condensor to the drum had just one orange wire attached to it. I then noticed a second orange wire hanging loose nearby and putting two and two together figured that the loose wire had dropped off the sensor. Since the connector can't be rewired I resorted to carefully soldering the loose wire to the connector and ty-rapped both orange wires to the connector to prevent the wires working loose again. Once I had the connector back on the sensor both wires were pretty taut between the main wiring loom and the sensor and so I suspect that what had happened was that in normal use the wire had come adrift from the connector due to the drum rocking back and forth and pulling the wires against the loom - a design flaw I'd say.
To create more slack for the two wires in question I cut the ty-rap holding the main wiring loom to the side of the dryer and then re-fitted a new ty-rap in exactly the same place around all the wires in the main loom except for the two orange wires so that they remained free of the main loom to move as the drum rocks. With the wire back in place and everthing re-assembled the dryer heats up perfectly and counts down as it should.

I figured that with the sensor not operating the computer determined incorrectly that the air leaving the drum was too hot/dry as would be the case if the contents of the drum were completely dry and as a result the computer turned off and kept off the heater for the remainder of the drying cycle. I also concluded that as an energy saving feature - with the computer thinking the clothes are dry - the dryer speeds up the remaining drying time so that the drying cycle finishes sooner, hence why the counter completes sooner than it should and all with no error message.

Hope this is of help to others.

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To diagnose yourself - unplug and drag out machine, remove top cover by removing screws at back, and back pannel screws.
Check wiring loom and connectors particularly at motor area for any signs of arcing or wear. Bounce drum to check how the loom moves during use - and check wear areas. Check all connections from Tacho to control board - remove and replace them. Check continuity of wiring. Remove control board if you cannot see any problems yet - and check for damaged components or hot areas on board.

These checks should reveal the fault. If not - contact me again.

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Most washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new timer yourself.

Step 1: Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull a wire by hand.

Step 2: To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 3: To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into place.

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