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first confirm that the condensing unit outside is getting power or even a command to come on .check function of thermostat your t-stat may command heat in the cooling mode.instead of the heat mode, being a heating system generated by a cooling condensor. also check bateries in t-stat. make sure breker in the panel box is on ,it is a double breaker usualy marked with an amp rating of 20 ,or a 30 on it . also check disconnect switch located next to your outdoor condensor usualy a gray box on wall of building. make sure its on or diconnect tab is pluged in . hope this was helpful. good luck.
The 24 in your model number means 24,000 btus. There is 12 thousand btus in a ton of cooling. This makes your unit a two ton. You can buy a air handler sent up for two tons of cooling and then buy what every electric heat pack that you need. let me know. wally
Hi, go with the 5 ton unit. 12,000 btu's are not going to cause moisture or mold!! I have done this for 33 years, do know what I am talking about and would not steer you in the wrong direction. Go with the 5 ton unit, and remember this for some knoledge from me to you. For every ton of cooling, there are 12,000 btu's. You will find this number in the model number of the outdoor unit if it is a split, or on the pack unit data plate. Look for 060 on a 5 ton, and 048 on a 4 ton unit. Please rate me on this post and keep me posted on the out come. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration, commercial Contractor
If you have a crushed, kinked, or otherwise restricted fitting in the system, it's possible the cooling may be affected. Pressure readings can be thrown off, and refrigerant flow can be inhibited.
Since the unit is new, you should have a complete parts and labor warranty, so ask the installer what the reason is that the system doesn't provide the cooling you were probably promised when they sold it to you. They should have taken into account the location of the condensing unit, the size and insulation in your house, indoor and outdoor conditions, your geography/climate, and any other load factors before selling you the system.
Hi, yes the number you are showing me 036 indicates its a 3 ton unit. For every ton of cooling, you will have 12,000 btu's of cooling. 36 divided by 12=3 ton unit. Its showing me also its a Ruud Handler 2.0 ton which would be a Model# UACC-024JAS? If your mobel number is the one you gave me, UACC-036JAS, this is a 3 ton unit, absolutely no questions. I hope I have been of help to you. I am a licensed air conditioning / Refrigeration /Heating Contractor. Let me know if I have been of help. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 PS If this is a split system with the indoor air handler and condenser outdoors, both coils must be the same tonnage for it to work for you properly. You can't have a 2 ton indoor evaporator coil with a 3 ton condensing unit.
Square footage is how you determine what size of an AC you need, say two bedroom house with 1500 square feet would require a 3 ton unit but I would go to a 4 or 5 ton depending on brand and what you may do in the future, Like adding a bedroom or bathroom and how many people will be living in the house, a heat pump normally last longer the bigger it is and is more efficient than a smaller size. Just think like this, a 3 ton will run 30 minutes to an hour longer to cool the same space as a 5 ton so if the five ton does it 30 minutes faster it will not run as long. And when it has to pull down the temperature again it will do it much faster. So less run time means faster heat or cooling and less energy is used. I have found that the bigger units are made better and last longer as a general rule. And to understand the 3-ton and 5 ton let me say that it means how long it takes 3 tons of ice to bring the temperature down 10 degrees, the old BTU’s British thermal units. However the bigger the unit the more well built it is normally and the less maintenance required. 5 tons of ice would get it cooler faster. But one thing to keep in mind a heat pump is only good for 20 degrees temperature range, for instance if the high range is 80 then the low side would be 60 in order for it to be efficient so if you have it set in the house at 72 degrees on the high side and low side would be 52 degrees. But the larger the unit the less time it would take it to recover from the heat differential.
its wired wrong the thermostst has wires running to the indor unit and the indor to the outdor wiring these units can be a bit complicated even for pros so use your judgement if you dont think you can handle it leave it to a pro be couse you can cause serious damage to your electronic board and that will surely cost you