Question about Philips 20PF5120 20 in. EDTV-Ready LCD Television
I am the owner of a Philips 20" LCD TV. Model # is 20PF5120/28. One day, it stopped showing the picture, but it still produces sound. I have it taken apart from the frame, and I can't see any bad connections on the inverter. My question is how do I tell if it's a backlight or the inverter that's malfunctioning? It looks like it has two lights, so I'm guessing it's the inverter, but when I google the part number that's on what I assume to be the inverter, I get nothing. It shows in a square frame "94V-O", "E232940", "JVE 0608". Then beneath that, it shows "DAC-16T003 AOF", "2994743002", "REV: 00 A". When I search for inverters, I get pictures of long skinny boards, but mine is a more rectangular board. Can someone help me diagnose wether it's the bulbs or the inverter, and lead me to a website where I can find parts for this TV?
Symptoms of a Defective or dying Power supplies on LCD TVs.
1. Light(s) on the front panel are behaving not normal example, blinking, amber color or
not steady, fainting, etc.
2. TV not turning ON properly.
3. TV turns OFF by itself.
4. Needs to be unplug to many times to make it work.
5. Humming or high pitch noise heard through speakers or at the back of the TV.
I repair these power supplies. Write to firstname.lastname@example.org if you require further assistance.
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
I had the Same issue. on a 50PF9431D/37 set. Many Plasma Set's use a LJ44-00118A PS-505-PH Power supply from Samsung. Known to have this common problem. If you can, or have a friend that can Solder components?. Unplug your set remove the back panel & locate your power supply. It will be the PCB in the center of the set just above the Video/Audio connections. http://www.shopjimmy.com/power-supply-unit-lj44-00118a-from-philips-50mf231d-40.htm. Is a Link to a photo of the PCB. Make a note of the locations of all cable connections then unplug them all. Un-install PCB, Check all Fuse first. I believe their is 5 or 6 of them on the PCB. Then replace the two 3300uf 10v 105C Radial capacitors at C8060 & C8059. Look to see if the Caps are deformed and or split at the top. The location of the caps are in the Lower bottom edge of the PCB. A local shop may Carrie them if not, digi-key has them. Part # http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-1754-ND. Total cost was $7 with S/H.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
SOURCE: No picture on Philips LCD TV
One very common problem encountered on many Philips models, old and new, In some cases, the SSB board has to be replaced as the resistor on the PCB on the back of the CRT had to be fixed. In other cases the Y Sustain board had to be replaced. If the problem is not due to these two issues, then the capacitors will need to be replaced as they only have a fixed guaranteed life. Thus, it would be wise to take out an extended warranty on Philips due to this common repair issue which often occurs after the limited warranty has ended. Or you could just call your local repairman. There are lots of websites on how to fix it yourself on google. There could be many reasons. Hope this helps!
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
change the backlight (cold cathode light) on your monitor.. If you are able to open the back of your lcd monitor carefully, the backlights are located at the upper and the lower part of the edge .. replace it with conventional cold cathode lights(protective tube was removed)... there are also instances that backlight was good but the ballast transformer is burnt. Replace the ballast. Its very cheap to replace that.
Posted on May 18, 2010
Are there any blown caps on the PSB-power supply board. Most sets have sammy boards and they used very shotty caps. If there are no visual clues being a poped cap at the top (X) they simply often do vaporize and dry out. The YSUS-Main and the 2 Y buffer boards control the picture OSD-on screen display. Your not getting any of that. So power supply is where you start first. The YBU-upper and the YBL-lower control the upper and lower OSD the Ysus main control both of them. Usually if you have one in the door you have to replace all 3. But not always. If you were to replace any of the boards I would replace the YSUS-Main, or get the board reworked at a pc repair shop that does board level test and repai. Its more cost effective.
Best Regards and Semper Fi
Posted on Aug 03, 2010
I got one of these for free, and I fixed it about 10 minutes flat!
In my case it was easy.
Opening it up and taking off the inverter shield showed simply a loose backlight connector at the bottom (the grey one).
Plugged in, back in business.
Looks a bit like a design defect here.
Usually your inverter plugs are horizontal, and perhaps this one being vertical lent it to disconnection over time with some vibration. And the connectors appear not to have any kind of locking mechanism.
A little plastic glue, or contact cement should hold them securely in place.
Note all the power supply is in the external 12v 5a unit.
There are few electrolytic caps inside the unit to look for as bad.
If you don't have a 5a 12v supply laying around you could probably use the 12v side of and old PC power supply. Make sure it can supply at least 5a et al.
To open this unit, you have to take all the screws off, including the stand.
To take the stand off, there is a plastic cover to pull off, then four small screws to remove. Then pull this part off then you will see the four actual screws that hold the stand to the base.
Posted on Feb 04, 2011
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