Re: My rear tine tiller lurches out of control when I use...
Hi it sounds like you are trying too till the soil with the tiller in the fast position and probably too deep for your first pass. Really the fast position is for transporting the tiller from the field. Try putting the tiller in slow which would be the down position. Turn the throttle all the way foward, engage the tines and push your depth rod on the back down to where it is only going into the soil about four inches or even less depending on the hardnes of the soil. Even though a Troy is the best Tiller made it will try to run away with you when your trying to hog the soil all at once. Your depth setting is very important and people seem to forget the importance of adjusting it. Try these things, and remember to alway's start your tilling in the slow full throttle position. Lowering your depth a little at a time. Till you find the appropriete feed for your speed.
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Transmission/differential. Perhaps the unit sat for 4 years because the tines would not turn and your replacement engine has not solved the real problem. I'd say disassemble the chain case to discover what's locking the tine drive.
That will happen when the tines are engaged while the wheels are in Neutral as the tines simply drive the whole machine forward without the drag of the wheels being in gear. If the wheel transmission is engaged and this is still happening, then you have need for repair.
farmerbear at FixYa.com
Slowly lower your tilling depth regulator a little at a time. Make a pass or two with it set almost as high as it will go then drop it a couple of notches and keep making more passes over the same ground. If you lower the tines to far down on hard ground it will just take off like you are describing. Just take it slow until you get your ground worked up and then it will work great.
This is normal for these. The belt slipping before absorbed this. The only real way to prevent this is to weigh the tiller down with large rocks, concrete blocks, something of that sort. They have been built much lighter since Troy-Bilt was bought by MTD, and don't weigh enough to keep from picking up and taking off when you use it. I have a small one, and I weigh it down with about 150 lbs of concrete and lead, and that does it.
MAKE TWO PASSES SET THE DEPTH GUIDE SO IT JUST BREAKS THE GROUND, DON'T TRY TO DO IT ALL AT ONCE. SOON AS THE GROUND IS LOOSE IT WILL DIG MUCH BETTER.. IT SHOULD HAVE A FORWARD AND REVERSE FOR THE TINES, GEARS FOR FORWARD REVERSE DRIVE
Hello, I think if you look at the depth setting bar you will find it clogged up with grass and roots. Once it clumps up you can't get it to drop to depth to make the cut. There are two speeds for the rear times for the toller which will make it go forward more slowly and allow the dirt clods to break up better. Also cut the grass as short as you can, make a shallow pass with the tiller 1" to 2 " to cut the heads off the roots and then go to depth with your next cut. This should pretty much break up the cloding when doing the tilling. Also watch it because it is hits a rock it will jump up and drag you away at the speed of the tines, because it lifts the drive wheels off the ground and the times drive the tiller instead. Other than that mine used to chew up everything including wet DG. Good Luck, RAC
* CRT or SRT -- These are two terms you will see on rear-tine tillers only.
o Counter Rotating Tines are best for heavier duty jobs and for breaking new ground.
o Standard Rotating Tines are good for aerating the soil and help propel the tiller forward.