Dont know how to put my clutch back on my polan 3416

you keep starting posts over and over, why>
is this just one problem if yes stick to one post of it is impossible track
to add to a post
edit the first or click comments to that that post
and I already answered all this, now you start a new post
and fess up to 2500 model truck. ok that nice to know
but why not post that commented to the other posts.
6.6L diesel problems.
NO start but CRANKS fast/ not told that,why not?/
i see you are buying he wrong parts. why?
b4 = before? what is b4? a code?

the are lots of diesel ,only steps to do.
it is not like a gas car at all,. the pumps on diesels do not pump air ever
they must be primed first.
all of of that must be primed,
I see other owners of this truck , putting on upgrades adding a lift pump
to end this mess.
google chevy 3500 6.6 lift pump upgrade
learn to goggle what all other 6.6 engine owners say
they have plenty are are all VALID.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzSV6QX6mo4



and

why

https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/blog/why-the-duramax-never-had-a-lift-pump-and-why-it-shouldve/

pumps never run them dry (gas or oil)
and rule 2, most must be primed ! well all do really but some exceptions.
gas cars the pump is submerged and is self primed,
diesel is a whole other ball game.
the best systems on diesel is 2 pumps.
vast diesels if your read the service manual nobody ever reads
it tells how to do the prime,
OMG
here it is
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp


back in the olden days we had gas and carbs the silly cam driven pump
can pump air and gas. both so self primed using a diaphragm pump
but none of that is here (gas)

change oil ? water wont compress!!! prolly gallded all internal parts . at this point i would try transmission fluid. drain oil and check for metal or allum. shavings. refill w/trans fluid , remove spark plug , add tfluid in very small amt to cyl. replace plug.start briefly dont rev eng at all . let idle if it will. maybe 1 to 2 mins. shut off let complete cool down . restart again w/same fluid. same as b4. stop drain fluid . smell t.fluid if burnt or not. flush cranckcase w/new oil. hope for the best here. refill eng to proper level and p++ y. has worked for me but wasnt severe as yours sounds to be. good luck let me know if it helps or not. be sure ALL TRANS FLUID IS GONE FROM ENG. B4 new oil is put in . replace oil filter too b4 trans fluid is added and after tfluid is emptied.

water in the gas or carb needs to be removed and taken apart and cleaned

If the oil pump is somewhat worn, and the oil is really thinned out with gas, yes there is a possibility it will not pump. I had a 1976 XLCH, that I had to do the top end on. I checked the oil pump and replaced the gear set. I believe there may be a wear plate on either side of the gear set as well. If you drain everything from the tank, and take the oil pump apart, clean and check for wear, replace those parts mentioned, make sure the housing is not worn or damaged, put it back together and time the oil pump, it should take car of your problem. Fill the oil tank with Lucas 20-50w or 50w Lucas Synthetic. Oil this thick will eventually mix in the primary chain chamber and cause the clutch to slip. I just used to change oil more often. Oil is cheaper than a new engine or clutch. One thing: to own a 1976 XLCH means you need to like to work on bikes. Personally I live for it. I now have a 1981 XLH that I brought back to life.

the clutch may be stuck on. Put the bike in neutral, start the bike, run down the road looking like a fool jumping on and off the bike to kick it into 2nd gear and pumping clutch lever. Clutch should be free.

It might also be worth checking if your pushrod has a ball bearing in the end, I had one on mine, replace the clutch plates and it wouldn't work with the ball bearing in :)

The fluid used in the hydraulic clutch line is brake fluid.
The fluid used in the transmission can be either 10w30 oil......80w90 oil or automatic trans oil ....it depends on what transmission you have and what year you have.

Some transmissions are filled through the shifter opening.
Do not overfill it.....it will leak out on your new clutch.

No clutch is hard to change...as long as you've got the manual, big tools and do the proceed step by step as it says....dont just put them back any way you want.... there is a specific pattern to most clutch plates. Make sure that the new ones are soaked in oil before putting them on. if you lean your bike over enough you might not have to even drain any oil.

ello mate,,first drain the oil out,remove the right side lower fairing,,then remove the wot looks like a large circular engine casing,then remove the bolts with springs holding the clutch plates in,,take off the cover then u will see the plates and metal lookin clutch plates,, now take out the clutch plates one at a time,,,ie take one out then place on the bench,take a metal plate out and place that on top of the 1st plate u took out,and so on,, when u have the new fibre plates,,replace back in the bike as u took the old ones out,,ie, new fibre plate 1st then put a metal friction plate back in from your bench,,then a new fibre plate and so on,,each time u replace the new plate ,chuck away the old one,,wen u have done that ,on the clutch plate cover look at the face of the cover u will see a small arrow head or a dot stamped on the face of it,, that dot should line up with a dot thats stamped on the housing where the clutch plates are,put the plate casing on so that the dots line up ,,put the springs and bolts back on and do them up tight,,then replace the engine casing,,,put your oil back in,,if u have a hydrolic clutch u will have to remove the 3 screws and the clutch piston b4 taking the casing off ,,,to read this it will sound complicated m8,, but wen u start the job itl be quite easy,, take your time tho,,any probs m8 ,shout and il anserw u,, ok,, cheers now

check the cam sensor to make sure its good. you already know the crank sensor is good since youre getting fire...

Replace the oil pump..Or just try to clean it out but I have been through this and it worked for about ten minutes and I ended up just replacing the pump and works fine now. They are not very expensive (35.00-40.00) and only takes about ten minutes. Get a beer and a table or the tail gate of you truck should be fine. Take off the side cover remove the bar and chain. Clean everything up... air compressor is best a paint brush and rag works good if you do not have a air compressor. Take the top plastic cover (three screws on top of the saw). Pull the spark plug and feed a piece of rope into the cylinder. This will bind up saw so you can remove the clutch. I use a pull start rope from my old lawn mower and keep it in my saw box for this reason. This size and kind of rope seems to work best. Now you need to remove the clutch. There is an arrow on the clutch that tells you which way to turn it to get it off. This can sometimes be tricky but don't give up. I'm sure there is a tool for this and I keep saying that I'm going to make something. I use the handle of a good strong pair of pliers and turn the plier with a pair of vice grips. When you see the clutch you'll figure out something to use to loosen it and spin it off. Un-spin the clutch and remove the clutch drum by just sliding it off the spindle. Be careful because there is a bushing with needle bearings. The bearings are in there pretty good and wont just fall out. If you want to replace that you can 14.00 or so. There is also a plastic drive gear for the pump that just lifts out , replace it too 6.00 or so. Take off the metal cover I think it's just one screw. When you remove the cover you may see a lot of saw dust and oil all packed inside. If you have an air compressor just blow it all out. The oil pump is right there and is simply removed with one screw. clean every thing up put the new pump in put everything back together and you should be back in business.