My freezer is froze

the defrost timer and limit switch (its clipped to the top of interior coil) needs replaced

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rick_4ed9a6c8e57209e6

Your tech doesn't have the issue completely fixed. You have a defrost issue and defrosting manually is just the start to resolving your issue. You have to diagnose why it fails to defrost. You have a heater, control thermostat,frost sensor, etc. to check for a failure after defrosting it. Get someone that knows how to complete the job right!

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Hi David,

It may have gone into the defrost cycle while you were cleaning it. Leave it turned on for about an hour, if it still does not start on it's own send me the model number off the tag and I will help you find out what is wrong.

To answere your question : The cooling coil is called the evaporator and is located behind the backwall of the freezer.....But this is not what they want you to clean. They want you to clean the condenser coil, witch is either the big black coils on the back of the unit or they are located under the unit.

you might also make sure you here the fan inside the freezer. open the door and press the door switch and see if you here the fan running. if you don't, then you might have a evaperator fan motor that is bad.

The next thing you shoud check is the back wall of the freezer have frost or did it have frost on it. if it did you have a defrost problem.

This is where you should start. There are many other things that could be rong.

It is working to hard, look in the rear down low and check to see if you can vacum the fann and coil clean unplug it first. they tend to get real dirty real fast.

thermostat is defective(loose contact)

I'll try to give you the "Readers Digest" version.
First, make sure there is no ice build up on the evap. Light frost is O.K. as long as it does not effect air flow. (Very Important). All fans need to be running. Again, an air flow thing. There should be some product in the box but not too close to the evap. Again, an air flow thing.
The expansion device can effect your pressures to some degree i.e. Cap tube vs. TXV.
As a general rule of thumb, which I use almost everyday when it comes to pressures:
Low side is based on the temp difference between evap temp and condition space in the box. In freezers, it is almost always 10 degrees. If the box is 0 degrees then the evap needs to be at a minus 10 degrees. That is a pressure for R-404A of 24.5 psi. This only holds true when the temp in the box is approching set temp. I would say, about +10 degrees. 0 Degrees for the evap for R-404A is 33.5 psi.
High side should be ambient temp +30 degrees and then convert to a pressure for the refrigerant.
Example: 75 degrees in the room, +30 degrees equals 105 degrees. Now 105 degrees converted to a R-404A pressure is 253 psi. This will get you very close to the desired high side pressure.
I would look at low side first to see if it is within reason. Don't let the high side get too high. Increases the compression ratio and overworks the compressor.
Your icing problem could be a defrost issue and not a refrigerant charge issue.

Good Luck and hope this gets you started.

i belive that the temp select you can choose temp, but when the min temp is selected, the next choice is OF, try resesting the control to a warmer/ or colder temp.

Since everything seems to work properly it may just be your temperature sensor, etc. has always been out of calibration. The t-stats are only about $23 bucks and very simple to replace. Pull the temp knob off and there you'll see the screws. I'd start by replacing this first then seeing if the temps are more controllable. Usually a 3-5 setting is good so being way low on the dial seems unusual. The drain hole copper I use is 1/4" copper tubing that I cut to about 6" long, hammer a few inches flat then use pliers to round a hook shape into the flat end. Test hang it on the heating element with the other end of the copper about 1" into the drain hole (cut as needed). That ensures the water will drain and not refreeze before if flows out. Also check that the hole drains fast, use hot tap water and pour a 1/2 cup in real fast to make sure you see it flow out fast. If it's slow the drain tube may be clogged (I've found green peas are perfect to plug a hole). www.partselect.com or www.repairclinic.com are good part sources. Let me know how it goes. http://tinyurl.com/6ealmc for part to swap out.

Seems that you may have a faulty temp control switch or it is stuck in position. Check this also make sure that the air vents are clear.

Thanks J