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You have a defrost problem in the freezer,it is one or more of 4 things,freezer fan,defrost timer,defrost bimetal switch or defrost heater,check all until you find your bad part-mike........How do I check for these things?

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Do you know how to use a volt meter???-mike

Posted on Jan 08, 2009


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Whirlpool fridge gets frost build up in freezer

This means you have a defrost problem or a bad door gasket.

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Your refrigerator is not defrosting.
3 parts that can be contributing to your issue.
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1. Bimetal part# 4387503
2. Heater part# 2315531
3. Defrost timer Part# 482493

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Side by side Maytag refrigertor that is not chilling on the refrigerator side. Freezer side fine. Refrigerator compartment cold up about a third of way.

Due to only lower cooling of the refrig , this sounds like the freezer fan which circulates the cold air into the refrig , has stopped working . This will be one of two things . Freezer fan not working or defrost problem . Open the freezer door and listen for the fan . If you do not hear the fan , remove the inside freezer panel ( lower ) by removing the 2 screws . If the fan is not working , replace the fan motor . If the coils are coated with thick frost , you will need to check the defrost system . Unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and foreward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

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once ice forms on the freezer coils there is no air flow. I had the same thing. I suspect your defrost cycle is compromised. Could be the bimetal switch, defrost timer or defrost heater element.

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Freezer stops working as if its stuck in a defrost mode. Stays in this cycle too long and everything in the freezer thaws out. Service people came out and when they removed the inside cover over the coils,...

There is a eight hout defrost timer, bimetal thermostat, and defrost heating element in the defrost circuit. Three parts and the wiring harness.(four)A solid block of ice would be caused by some failure in the defrost system of the unit over a period of 30 days. It is a normal buildup of ice from the humidity in the air when you open and close the doors.... Normally it defrost the evaporator coils for about 20 minutes three times a day(every eight hours)

Newer styles use a defrost control curcuit board instead of a timer, and also use the defrost bimetal thermotat to control the fan in the freezer from not running until bimetal closes arould 30 degrees F

My guess is the water dispenser stops working because when the air flow gets changed by the ice build up of the coils it is causing a freeze in the refrigerator section of the coil loop of water tubing behind the lower fresh food drawers. This may go away with fixing the defrost problem

If the unit has a timer most can be manually turned to defrost (hear a click) to test defrost system. This shuts offf cooling(compressor and condensor fan) I can not tell you without testing which part has failed.Just trying to offer some help, good luck

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1 Answer

Freezer no longer freezing and refrigerator is not cold enough either.

  1. check if the evaporator fan motor is running (inside the freezer)
  2. Same for the condenser fan motor on the bottom in the back of the fridge
  3. Clean condenser coils underneath or in the back of the fridge
  4. if there is a frost on the back wall in freezer - you've got the defrost problem, check defrost heater, defrost bimetal thermostat, and defrost timer

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1 Answer

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It sounds like you have aproblem with the defrost cycle. Three parts make up defrost system in most refrigerators. The heating element, bimetal and defrost timer, these components need to be checked to determin which is bad. The heating element and bi metal are on the coil behind the freezer back wall, if you have someone who can use a volt ohm meter, with the food removed and refrigerator unplugged ck for resistance on the element if you get a measurment its good, the bimetal will give you a resistance measurment as long as its covered in ice. if these two check ok you may have a bad defrost timer. Id check the bimetal first, hope this helps.

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you have a defrost problem in the freezer,it is one or more of 4 things,freezer fan,defrost timer,defrost bimetal switch or defrost heater,check all until you find your bad part-mike

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Hi. I reccommend you replace the defrost timer and bimetal thermostat. The bimetal thermostat is located on the evaporator coil. The bimetal thermostat is the most common failure. Good luck, Mack

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