Question about Ariston Technologies L63 Free-Standing Dishwasher
We just had the very same problem and sure enough a flexible cutting board was over the outlet...very strange but thanks
Posted on Mar 12, 2008
I had the same problem and replaced the door seal. You need to remove the front door to do this. Requires some 'handyman' experience.
Posted on Jul 01, 2008
On many dishwashers, the latch engages a switch to activate the timer and other control components. If the latch is not completely engaged or if the switch is faulty, the machine will not operate. Here's how to test and repair a door switch:
Step 1: Latch the door and hold the latch tightly in the closed position. This works best on a unit with a lever-type latch. Then turn the control to the ON position. If the unit works, the problem is probably a misaligned lock unit. Adjust the lock unit with a screwdriver. If this doesn't solve the problem, the switch may be faulty.
Step 2: Test the switch with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Remove the panel covering the door switch and remove one of the electrical lead wires of the switch from its terminals. Clip one probe of the VOM to each switch terminal and shut the dishwasher's door. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working. If the meter reads higher than zero, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 3: Replace the switch with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.
Posted on Oct 13, 2008
This is commonly caused by a worn door seal. Over time, these seals compress to the point where they no longer seal correctly, or food particles and grime get caught between the door and seal and leave small air gaps. The silverware tray (if located along the left or right side) can also cause damage to the door seal as utensils get caught on the seal surface as you roll the lower rack in and out of the tub. As water splashes up against the inner door facing it rolls out the bottom of the door, or down along the sides instead of staying in the tub. The only other items that can contribute to leaking are:
1. A dishwasher that is not level, which causes the door not to seal properly.
2. The inner door panel being warped causing the door facing not to be even for the gasket to seat properly.
3, Dish placement. If you place bowls, serving trays and large tumblers in the front row of the bottom rack on some dishwashers it can contribute to water being deflected over the front edge of the tub and out the bottom of the door (Believe it or not, I've seen it happen).
NOTE: Most dishwashers do not have a seal across the front lip of the tub. That's why it's important to have a good door seal and to load it properly.
If you've loaded the dishwasher properly and confirmed it is level (front to back and side to side), then here are your options:
1. Replace the inner door panel at a cost of about $115.
2. Replace the door seal at a cost of about $35-$40.
Parts can be purchased from any of the following websites:
Use whatever parts source you like, but I have found these to be the cheapest and most reliable sites to order parts from. Shop all of them for the best price.
NOTE: The inner door panel is listed under the Door Parts section. The tub gasket will be listed under the Tub Parts section.
I think I would pursue the cheaper option, first. Its also the much simpler option. To replace the door seal, follow these steps:
1. Pull the old door seal from the groove around the wash tub facing. Take note of which surface area of the gasket is inserted in the groove and which surface is facing the door. It may not seal properly if you install the gasket the wrong way.
2. Clean the area really well to ensure there are no food debris or soap deposits. Also clean the inner door area where the door meets the gasket. You need a clean surface for the best results.
3. Locate the center mark of the new gasket. This will be a small paint spot or small groove on the gasket (this surface is the side of the gasket that will be inserted in the groove around the tub facing). If there is no center mark, fold the gasket in half and mark the location with some chalk, or hold with your fingers.
4. Locate the top center part of the wash tub facing and align the center mark of the door gasket at that point. Begin pushing the gasket into the groove with your hands and work your way around and down along each side.
5. Make sure the gasket is inserted all the way around the tub facing to the point where it meets the wash tub bottom. You can pull the gasket out and readjust as necessary.
This repair should take you about 30 minutes or less to complete. Its simple and requires no tools. The door will be tough the shut for a while until the gasket compresses and takes the door shape. Do not slam the door if it becomes difficult to shut. Simply close the door and the push firmly at the point just above the door latch until the latch clicks. Slamming the door can damage the control panel components, the door latch and/or the hinges. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
SOURCE: Maytag Dishwasher Leak
HI. this is a inlet assembly issue. The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it. One hose will lead from the valve to the pump/motor assembly in the center of the dishwasher. Check that the hoses are securely connected to the valve and that there are no kinks in the hoses which could restrict water flow. There are two wires (four, if it has two solenoids) connected to the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. If your valve has two solenoids, test the second one in the same way as the first.
If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the dishwasher is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.
***(((NOTE-- It i possible that the valve housing has cracked as well. make sure that the hoses are connected properly during your testing. If there are no hose issues, this will be a defective valve assembly)))
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
The average life of dishwashers is 7-10 ten years so it might just be dying but try this. If the leak is a small one that seems to always be near the left side of the dishwasher put a cup of white vinager in the upper rack and run the unit on pots & pans or heavy duty. This is caused by a build up of detergent that make the unit oversuds, when the suds turn back into water it leaks out the left front corner. The amount of water is not huge, one towel to clean up. If the leak is larger it could be the pump is leaking and you can order a new one with your model # from marcone.com
Posted on Nov 27, 2010
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